D7 17a Starts too easy and hard to stop engine

1956 D7 17a
When starting cold (92F day) with the pony engine and compression release set and throttle cracked the engine will start to fire and run before I set the compression release to run. I want to make sure there is oil pressure first. The main engine is puffing white smoke from the time I start turning it over till it catches.

When I want to shut it down it doesn't want to stop. Throttle all the way forward and I even set the compression release and it still won't quit. Usually needs to be put in gear and the clutch let out to get it to quit running.

Shutting the engine off is actually more worrisome to me. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Check your linkage maybe a rod bend or could full dirth rear fuel injection pump.

check for slop in the linkages make sure your getting full travel.

There is a detent you need to push the throttle past to shut it off. It was made so a hard push was needed, so you don't kill it just hunting for low idle.

And when starting, set the governor to off, not cracked. You don't want any fuel until the compression is back on and you're ready to start. That white smoke also means you're washing lubricant from the cylinder walls, amongst other things.

Has anybody actually set the linkage on the 17A throttle/governor and can give a step by step or picture of where the adjustment is?
There is an issue getting it to shut down and when starting is makes a bit of white smoke which suggests the rack is still set to push a little fuel into the cylinders. I don't feel a hard stop or detent to go past to shut it down.

a place for lost motion on the gov. control is in behind and under the gov. housing as shown in the scan. From memory the lever bolt is a loose fit in the hole in the horizontal gov. control shaft and so wear both parts. Changing the bolt will markedly reduce the lost motion here.

The gov shut off takes a fair push forwards with your body weight behind it to set to shut off.

Your compression release rods need adjusting in under the rocker covers. The grey Operators Maintenance Instruction book describes how to do this for the comp. release rods.

They are adjusted at the same time as each cylinders valves are adjusted (valves closed) and are done with the release lever in the RUN position.

Comp. release clearance is 0.025"-0.030" These should be adjusted each time the engine valves are adjusted. Scan above shows early engine but is basically the same as later, I have this scan to quickly show you the comp release rods in question.

Cheers,

Eddie B.

I think I found the cause.

Somebody was too cheap to buy a proper CAT pin and cotter pin. The double nut bangs against the transmission filler when trying to stop the engine.

I had the floor plates up to replace the clutch brake and get rid of the interference between the throttle linkage and gearbox filler casting. That gave me a chance to see if I could "push" the linkage past some detent, but I couldn't find any detent action no matter how hard I tried. I remember this from running D8s years ago. Something still isn't right.

check for lost motion and or interference at each bell-crank. A new 1M7300 bolt should reduce the lost motion that usually causes issues on the D7-8 gov controls--it is hidden way up behind the gov. housing between it and the engine right behind the timing case-- usually caked in dirt, sticks, leaves and oil so can be hard to see if you are familiar with its location.

With suitable socket bar extensions it can be changed although some special language that gentle people should not hear may be required--I am sure I have done a few way back when. May need linkage to be set just right to access the bolt head from memory.

The linkage is set at the factory and to my knowledge there are no dimensions given for each rod length--although the parts diagram may be a good guide for each rod length as they are generally believed to be taken from engineering drawings.

Silly thought for today--check that the 2 brackets shown are installed the correct way up--have encountered such on other machines and trans. and hyd.controls when they did not operate as designed.

Hope this helps,

Eddie B.

I had no idea that that bolt could even be accessed or that it could be a source of play. Maybe it is time to invest in an endoscope and have a look as I am not good at special language. haha

My linkage has no adjustable rods, all fixed length.