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D7 17A sloppy linkages

D7 17A sloppy linkages

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Skoop
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Hello gentleman! I am the proud new owner of a D7 17A6292. I have been lurking in the shadows for the last month and purusing the archives to avoid y'all beating a dead horse with newbie questions. The steering on the right side was almost non existant and after popping the cover on the clutch compartment I discovered what looked like someone had soaked everything in there in an acid salt solution. The support screw on the bottom of the brake band is gone and most all the metal parts had 1/4 inch of scaly rust. But after a lot of elbow grease and wire brushing and scraping (and 18 cans of brake cleaner!)I think Ive got 'er licked. The brake was coated in wet brake dust due to a missing drain plug. I removed about 2 gallons of wet brake/clutch dust and old dry grease. Wet dust was indeed wet dust as it dried on my fingers in the breeze. My question concerns the steering clutch linkage adjustment. Ive got the manual stated 3 inches of "free travel" at the handles but the mounting rod and the bottom of the levers that slip over the rod are so worn there is an additional 2 1/2 inches of slop. Is it advisable to adjust the slop out of that joint? I haven't been able to find an achived thread on bushing kits to revamp the fit between the levers and main mounting rod. Does such a kit exist? The left final drive is leaking a good amout as well now that it has been moved around a bit. Its a big enough leak I woundn't have missed it when I test drove it. Anyone think it might swell back up and seal after a bit of work? I got it for $6800 with hyd straight blade, super heavy duty brush rake, stump splitter and Hyster D7D winch. Cheap enough, I think, to spend some cash getting her dialed in for stumping and grading on my property.
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Mon, May 15, 2017 2:46 AM
Inter674
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These levers are probably best taken out and welded up and re bored to size which together with a new pin fixes the problem.
You might also have an issue with the steering booster the solution to which is covered in other threads.
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Mon, May 15, 2017 3:46 AM
mog5858
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Reply to Inter674:
These levers are probably best taken out and welded up and re bored to size which together with a new pin fixes the problem.
You might also have an issue with the steering booster the solution to which is covered in other threads.
that's nice cat. let us know where you are from as that help's there might be someone close by that can help you out. i did weld up some on my d2 and re-drilled. find some oil-light bushings to push in if might be easy than welding up and drilling. keep up the good work
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Mon, May 15, 2017 8:37 AM
leon
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Reply to mog5858:
that's nice cat. let us know where you are from as that help's there might be someone close by that can help you out. i did weld up some on my d2 and re-drilled. find some oil-light bushings to push in if might be easy than welding up and drilling. keep up the good work
You may try to stop final drive leak by tightening outboard bearing,[seal also moves with adjusting nut],
loosen clamp bolt on cage,remove lock on extreme bottom,with a crow bar turn notched nut counter
clock-wise as tight as possible [with four foot bar] if you are lucky, nut will not be stripped of threads,and
super lucky if leak stops.[it may help to move tractor back and forth in process]

leon
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Tue, May 16, 2017 9:20 AM
ccjersey
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There is a spanner type wrench to tighten the final drive/sprocket shaft bearings. They should be as tight as you can get them with the 4' or so handle on the tool. Lots of places that run CAT tractors will have one. The crowbar method will probably get it close if you can find a good point to pry against.

The sprocket may move by putting a long bar between it and the track frame if it is loose enough to cause a leak. If the leak is only from the outside of the sprocket, and tightening the bearings doesn't work, you can replace that seal without pulling and pressing the sprocket back on (40-50 tons??????). If it's leaking inside the sprocket, the sprocket has to come off the taper spline shaft to replace the seal.

Sprocket can also be loose on the shaft, so it may move with a prybar even if bearings are tight. You won't find out until you try tightening the bearings and it doesn't work.

I would try to drill out the sloppy holes in lever and clevises to fit an oversize pin before I went to the trouble to weld and redrill to standard.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Tue, May 16, 2017 10:07 AM
Pioneernorth
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Reply to ccjersey:
There is a spanner type wrench to tighten the final drive/sprocket shaft bearings. They should be as tight as you can get them with the 4' or so handle on the tool. Lots of places that run CAT tractors will have one. The crowbar method will probably get it close if you can find a good point to pry against.

The sprocket may move by putting a long bar between it and the track frame if it is loose enough to cause a leak. If the leak is only from the outside of the sprocket, and tightening the bearings doesn't work, you can replace that seal without pulling and pressing the sprocket back on (40-50 tons??????). If it's leaking inside the sprocket, the sprocket has to come off the taper spline shaft to replace the seal.

Sprocket can also be loose on the shaft, so it may move with a prybar even if bearings are tight. You won't find out until you try tightening the bearings and it doesn't work.

I would try to drill out the sloppy holes in lever and clevises to fit an oversize pin before I went to the trouble to weld and redrill to standard.
Take the cap off the outside (four bolts) and make sure the big nut on the axle is tight. Do this before attempting to adjust bearings with the spanner wrench.
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Tue, May 16, 2017 12:27 PM
Skoop
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Reply to Pioneernorth:
Take the cap off the outside (four bolts) and make sure the big nut on the axle is tight. Do this before attempting to adjust bearings with the spanner wrench.
Thank y'all for the input. Ive got a bunch of 1/2 and 3/4 inch plate that I was going to try to fab a spanner wrench from. If I cant stop the leak that way Ill just bite the bullet and rebuild the final while Ive got it all torn apart. Theres a local repair guy that can come pull/push the sprocket for me for a couple hundred bucks. Well worth it for the right tool. Im kinda anal when it comes to my machinery. I dont like the standard "farmer" quick fixes. But I'll take all the tips and tricks I can come by. Theres no replacement for prior experience, thats where you fine folks come in!
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Wed, May 17, 2017 4:29 AM
Andrew
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Reply to Skoop:
Thank y'all for the input. Ive got a bunch of 1/2 and 3/4 inch plate that I was going to try to fab a spanner wrench from. If I cant stop the leak that way Ill just bite the bullet and rebuild the final while Ive got it all torn apart. Theres a local repair guy that can come pull/push the sprocket for me for a couple hundred bucks. Well worth it for the right tool. Im kinda anal when it comes to my machinery. I dont like the standard "farmer" quick fixes. But I'll take all the tips and tricks I can come by. Theres no replacement for prior experience, thats where you fine folks come in!
Congratulations on your purchase.
Most of these machines have sloppy steering clutch levers as does yours.
The shaft these pivot on is the main clutch throw out lever shaft and it goes across the gear box to operate the gear shift interlock. This means it is inpractial to fit a bigger shaft and bore out the lever bushes .
There was a thread on here and while ago covering this repair . Perhaps by garlic pete.
I guess you should add the sloppy amount to the spec to adjust but I find when working the machine if you listen to it, it will tell you if it is adjusted correctly. Try it out before you adjust anything and see how you go.
Have you found the oil resivor behind the fuel tank for the steering clutch booster.
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Wed, May 17, 2017 5:03 AM
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