I just thought is there anything I really need to look at before i try to fire it upto bring it across the farm to bring it to the shop other than the normal stuff like oils and coolant?
check the under carriage to make sure tracks on not off the rollers, tight enough, and the idler and rollers spin and are not frozen.
Don't know anything about a D7 but in general I use 90W gear oil in all gear boxes .
30W diesel oil in engine and AW 46 in hydraulics.
Here's a couple of charts to get you going....
Need more specifics on the pony and undercarriage issues.
You also need to invest in some manuals.
The hydraulic leak appears to be input shaft seal which will require removing the #46 unit to gain access.
thanks for the info I went and checked it out some today none of the oils seem milky but one spark plug is missing from the pony (i really dont know why but it is) but it is free also gas cap is gone from pony tank. I remembered the float is cracked in the pony carb so the more I think about it maybe I ought to work on this pony some and just leave it original I really know quite a bit about this machine from gpas teachings but wish i would hae learned a lot more.......
He spent a lot of money on it in his last years Rebuilt the diesel, had lifetime rollers put on, new steering clutches, and rebuilt front idlers.
I put new fan bearings in and replaced the exhaust manifold after a tree limb caught it but it was in bad shape anyways.
The pony is electric start but the starter always puts up a fight (solder breaks loose on power stud inside the case)
There was one track link stuck on it before (hopefully not more now!) anyone have a great way of freeing those up?
serial number is 17a 2468
I would have messed with it furthur but irritated a nest of bumblebees so I am gonna spray them tommorow
Where is the best place to buy manuals I do want a full set also would like one for the hydraulic unit
I'll think of more info about it but I'm in the middle of picking corn so its rainy days for now
mechanicing kinda come second nature to me have rebuilt several deere engines and put head gasket on my C12 in my pete so this is nothing new to me
I spoke to a couple of acmoc members at a farm show in KC about selling this dozer last year and I'm glad none of them took me up on it lol and I joined acmoc the other day as well I'm really proud of my old machine and hope to be even prouder of it in the future
thanks for the info I went and checked it out some today none of the oils seem milky but one spark plug is missing from the pony (i really dont know why but it is) but it is free also gas cap is gone from pony tank. I remembered the float is cracked in the pony carb so the more I think about it maybe I ought to work on this pony some and just leave it original I really know quite a bit about this machine from gpas teachings but wish i would hae learned a lot more.......
He spent a lot of money on it in his last years Rebuilt the diesel, had lifetime rollers put on, new steering clutches, and rebuilt front idlers.
I put new fan bearings in and replaced the exhaust manifold after a tree limb caught it but it was in bad shape anyways.
The pony is electric start but the starter always puts up a fight (solder breaks loose on power stud inside the case)
There was one track link stuck on it before (hopefully not more now!) anyone have a great way of freeing those up?
serial number is 17a 2468
I would have messed with it furthur but irritated a nest of bumblebees so I am gonna spray them tommorow
Where is the best place to buy manuals I do want a full set also would like one for the hydraulic unit
I'll think of more info about it but I'm in the middle of picking corn so its rainy days for now
mechanicing kinda come second nature to me have rebuilt several deere engines and put head gasket on my C12 in my pete so this is nothing new to me
I spoke to a couple of acmoc members at a farm show in KC about selling this dozer last year and I'm glad none of them took me up on it lol and I joined acmoc the other day as well I'm really proud of my old machine and hope to be even prouder of it in the future
The 17A is a good unit....well worth preserving.
New rollers & rebuilt idlers....makes me wonder what condition the rails are in although a stuck pin is usually a good sign that they are tight.
Should be able to read any unusual wear patterns on those new components. Check for alignment and parallel.
Best source for manuals is ebay but may take a while to build a set.
Cat can still get most of them through the legendary literature source.
Last and least quality is the Jensales reprints.
Direct start conversion is pretty easy once you get the nose adapter housing but still involves a fair amount of work and time to build a complete 24v system. Might as well get what remaining life you can out of the pony.
Modest heat, beat, penetrant cycles are probably the most common method of unsticking a track link. Could even try the chain and porta power with beam method that Bill Glen described on his 955.
Even I can remember that 2468 serial number. LOL
Serial number tag of the hydraulic controls is frequently on the radiator side of the unit at the top near the fill spout. Maybe later units have them on the front so you can see it better.
I would have thought it would have something a bit later and bigger than a #44, so hold on until you get your number before ordering manuals.
I am still have a spair parts manual hydrolic control #46 for d7 serie 17a and more