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D7 17a rehab

D7 17a rehab

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farmermattD7
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I got this machine from my grandpa before his passing and used it on the farm with grandpa technical knowlege of the old girl it went well but since i have not really used it at all and its been sitting for about 2 years I am gonna get it fired up and into my shop here shortly. i want to service it up like it needs to be and fix a few problems that i know exist

1. pony runs like CRAP only one cylynder i think an electric conversion would suit me fine I have seen lots of options on here i just want to know the best route to go

2. hydraulic contol unit leaks at the shaft I want to replace this if its not a huge delima (5 gal of oil ran about 3 hours)

3. machine always pulls to one side slightly (cant remember which) even when not pushing

4. also need to know prper oils for all cases as i'd say they all need changed

I bought a farm that has severly grown up but was put in crp right after a bunch of waterways were built so berms need leveled and some repairs made to them as well as crossings and such (not to mention the sprouts) so the D7, 955L, and the bobcat have their work cut out for them as I want to plant beans next spring so I am gonna do this project pretty quick


thanks in advance
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Wed, Sep 8, 2010 12:50 PM
farmermattD7
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I just thought is there anything I really need to look at before i try to fire it upto bring it across the farm to bring it to the shop other than the normal stuff like oils and coolant?
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Fri, Sep 10, 2010 3:46 AM
dpendzic
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Reply to farmermattD7:
I just thought is there anything I really need to look at before i try to fire it upto bring it across the farm to bring it to the shop other than the normal stuff like oils and coolant?
check the under carriage to make sure tracks on not off the rollers, tight enough, and the idler and rollers spin and are not frozen.
Don't know anything about a D7 but in general I use 90W gear oil in all gear boxes .
30W diesel oil in engine and AW 46 in hydraulics.
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Fri, Sep 10, 2010 6:03 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to dpendzic:
check the under carriage to make sure tracks on not off the rollers, tight enough, and the idler and rollers spin and are not frozen.
Don't know anything about a D7 but in general I use 90W gear oil in all gear boxes .
30W diesel oil in engine and AW 46 in hydraulics.
Here's a couple of charts to get you going....
Need more specifics on the pony and undercarriage issues.
You also need to invest in some manuals.

The hydraulic leak appears to be input shaft seal which will require removing the #46 unit to gain access.
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Fri, Sep 10, 2010 7:32 AM
farmermattD7
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Here's a couple of charts to get you going....
Need more specifics on the pony and undercarriage issues.
You also need to invest in some manuals.

The hydraulic leak appears to be input shaft seal which will require removing the #46 unit to gain access.
thanks for the info I went and checked it out some today none of the oils seem milky but one spark plug is missing from the pony (i really dont know why but it is) but it is free also gas cap is gone from pony tank. I remembered the float is cracked in the pony carb so the more I think about it maybe I ought to work on this pony some and just leave it original I really know quite a bit about this machine from gpas teachings but wish i would hae learned a lot more.......

He spent a lot of money on it in his last years Rebuilt the diesel, had lifetime rollers put on, new steering clutches, and rebuilt front idlers.

I put new fan bearings in and replaced the exhaust manifold after a tree limb caught it but it was in bad shape anyways.

The pony is electric start but the starter always puts up a fight (solder breaks loose on power stud inside the case)

There was one track link stuck on it before (hopefully not more now!) anyone have a great way of freeing those up?

serial number is 17a 2468

I would have messed with it furthur but irritated a nest of bumblebees so I am gonna spray them tommorow

Where is the best place to buy manuals I do want a full set also would like one for the hydraulic unit

I'll think of more info about it but I'm in the middle of picking corn so its rainy days for now

mechanicing kinda come second nature to me have rebuilt several deere engines and put head gasket on my C12 in my pete so this is nothing new to me

I spoke to a couple of acmoc members at a farm show in KC about selling this dozer last year and I'm glad none of them took me up on it lol and I joined acmoc the other day as well I'm really proud of my old machine and hope to be even prouder of it in the future
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Fri, Sep 10, 2010 8:04 AM
farmermattD7
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Reply to farmermattD7:
thanks for the info I went and checked it out some today none of the oils seem milky but one spark plug is missing from the pony (i really dont know why but it is) but it is free also gas cap is gone from pony tank. I remembered the float is cracked in the pony carb so the more I think about it maybe I ought to work on this pony some and just leave it original I really know quite a bit about this machine from gpas teachings but wish i would hae learned a lot more.......

He spent a lot of money on it in his last years Rebuilt the diesel, had lifetime rollers put on, new steering clutches, and rebuilt front idlers.

I put new fan bearings in and replaced the exhaust manifold after a tree limb caught it but it was in bad shape anyways.

The pony is electric start but the starter always puts up a fight (solder breaks loose on power stud inside the case)

There was one track link stuck on it before (hopefully not more now!) anyone have a great way of freeing those up?

serial number is 17a 2468

I would have messed with it furthur but irritated a nest of bumblebees so I am gonna spray them tommorow

Where is the best place to buy manuals I do want a full set also would like one for the hydraulic unit

I'll think of more info about it but I'm in the middle of picking corn so its rainy days for now

mechanicing kinda come second nature to me have rebuilt several deere engines and put head gasket on my C12 in my pete so this is nothing new to me

I spoke to a couple of acmoc members at a farm show in KC about selling this dozer last year and I'm glad none of them took me up on it lol and I joined acmoc the other day as well I'm really proud of my old machine and hope to be even prouder of it in the future
I was ordering manuals on ytmag.com and see there are two different versions of the #44 hydraulic unit 6w and 7w where is the ID tag or does my Ser. NO give it away? 17A2468
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Fri, Sep 10, 2010 9:51 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to farmermattD7:
thanks for the info I went and checked it out some today none of the oils seem milky but one spark plug is missing from the pony (i really dont know why but it is) but it is free also gas cap is gone from pony tank. I remembered the float is cracked in the pony carb so the more I think about it maybe I ought to work on this pony some and just leave it original I really know quite a bit about this machine from gpas teachings but wish i would hae learned a lot more.......

He spent a lot of money on it in his last years Rebuilt the diesel, had lifetime rollers put on, new steering clutches, and rebuilt front idlers.

I put new fan bearings in and replaced the exhaust manifold after a tree limb caught it but it was in bad shape anyways.

The pony is electric start but the starter always puts up a fight (solder breaks loose on power stud inside the case)

There was one track link stuck on it before (hopefully not more now!) anyone have a great way of freeing those up?

serial number is 17a 2468

I would have messed with it furthur but irritated a nest of bumblebees so I am gonna spray them tommorow

Where is the best place to buy manuals I do want a full set also would like one for the hydraulic unit

I'll think of more info about it but I'm in the middle of picking corn so its rainy days for now

mechanicing kinda come second nature to me have rebuilt several deere engines and put head gasket on my C12 in my pete so this is nothing new to me

I spoke to a couple of acmoc members at a farm show in KC about selling this dozer last year and I'm glad none of them took me up on it lol and I joined acmoc the other day as well I'm really proud of my old machine and hope to be even prouder of it in the future
The 17A is a good unit....well worth preserving.
New rollers & rebuilt idlers....makes me wonder what condition the rails are in although a stuck pin is usually a good sign that they are tight.
Should be able to read any unusual wear patterns on those new components. Check for alignment and parallel.

Best source for manuals is ebay but may take a while to build a set.
Cat can still get most of them through the legendary literature source.
Last and least quality is the Jensales reprints.

Direct start conversion is pretty easy once you get the nose adapter housing but still involves a fair amount of work and time to build a complete 24v system. Might as well get what remaining life you can out of the pony.

Modest heat, beat, penetrant cycles are probably the most common method of unsticking a track link. Could even try the chain and porta power with beam method that Bill Glen described on his 955.

Even I can remember that 2468 serial number. LOL
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Fri, Sep 10, 2010 9:59 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Old Magnet:
The 17A is a good unit....well worth preserving.
New rollers & rebuilt idlers....makes me wonder what condition the rails are in although a stuck pin is usually a good sign that they are tight.
Should be able to read any unusual wear patterns on those new components. Check for alignment and parallel.

Best source for manuals is ebay but may take a while to build a set.
Cat can still get most of them through the legendary literature source.
Last and least quality is the Jensales reprints.

Direct start conversion is pretty easy once you get the nose adapter housing but still involves a fair amount of work and time to build a complete 24v system. Might as well get what remaining life you can out of the pony.

Modest heat, beat, penetrant cycles are probably the most common method of unsticking a track link. Could even try the chain and porta power with beam method that Bill Glen described on his 955.

Even I can remember that 2468 serial number. LOL
Yours is a #46 hydraulic control (normally).
The serial number is on the LH side of the rear face of the control tank....where you almost can't read it. Should be a 48Cxxxx number.
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Fri, Sep 10, 2010 10:12 AM
ccjersey
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Serial number tag of the hydraulic controls is frequently on the radiator side of the unit at the top near the fill spout. Maybe later units have them on the front so you can see it better.

I would have thought it would have something a bit later and bigger than a #44, so hold on until you get your number before ordering manuals.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Fri, Sep 10, 2010 10:15 AM
gemdozer
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Reply to ccjersey:
Serial number tag of the hydraulic controls is frequently on the radiator side of the unit at the top near the fill spout. Maybe later units have them on the front so you can see it better.

I would have thought it would have something a bit later and bigger than a #44, so hold on until you get your number before ordering manuals.
I am still have a spair parts manual hydrolic control #46 for d7 serie 17a and more
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Fri, Sep 10, 2010 5:39 PM
ThomasFrazier
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Reply to gemdozer:
I am still have a spair parts manual hydrolic control #46 for d7 serie 17a and more
farmermatt

I had several links frozen on a 17a recently. It was parked in a shed and the cows would congregate around it in bad weather and I suppose do what cows do after they eat and drink.

I first put diesel and penetrating oil on the link, hammered it, worked the machine, used Mr. Victor and a heating tip on the pin boss and bushing, hammered more, tied a chain around bushing and the blade arm and lowered the blade, put the drawbar pin in the sprocket tooth opposite the frozen link...and well, none of this worked. Pulled the shoe and burned a hole in the bushing of the frozen link on the side of the bushing which faces the shoe and added snake oil, diesel, etc., applied heat, hammer and so forth and still no luck. Then I burned a hole in the pin boss between the pin and the shoe side of the rail. Took air compressor and blew out hole. Hammered it, and blew it out again. Lots of fine red powder, rust I suppose, came out. Kept hammering the link and blowing out rust. Even torched thru the seal/washer pieces around the pin inside the pin boss. It loosened up. I did not put penetrating oil on it until I could not get any more rust powder to come out. Welded up the hole in the pin boss and installed shoe. Works fine now.

This problen seems most prevalent with a new set of rails that are used relatively little and let set up. We once installed a new set of TD-14 rails on a Bucyrus Erie 15-b high walker dragline and had this happen. The machine didn't do enough walking so to speak. Had to pull the rails and take back to dealer. They pressed them apart and cleaned the powder out. They claimed the problem was the lubricant used when the rail was assembled at factory. This set of rails had more than one or two frozen links, and got so bad the machine would not travel without breaking drive chains. This happened in the 1960's. Haven't had this problem with modern rails.

Good luck with yours. Thomas
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Sun, Sep 12, 2010 1:47 AM
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