D6D powershift sometimes doesn't want to go in reverse

Hi Jfehrle, Do not run that tractor into the red, you are risking major damage and expense by doing so. Being a little in the red is kinda like being a little pregnant. That is a good looking D6D LGP. Not too long ago I was asked why a recently purchased local D6D ran hot; the answer was easy, that tractor had engine enclosures but had a solid hood which caused the problem. I couldn't tell from the pic if your D6D had a perforated hood (holes like the side panels) or not. If you have a perforated hood the first thing to check is the radiator cooling fins, if you look from the engine side can you see daylight through the fins? Are the fan belts worn/loose? Are the belly pans clean?
I am also concerned that you did not say what the torque converter temperature was. The D6Ds will typically have the torque converter temp be higher than engine temp and cause the engine temp to rise. Is your torque converter temperature gauge working? If your engine is in the red the torque converter should also be in the red. This might explain the transmission problem.
Welcome to ACMOC. If you allow your profile (upper right corner) to show your town or general location there might be members nearby that can help.
Craig

Seiscat,
Wow I would have never thought about the ventilation through the doors! I'm pretty sure it doesn't have a perforated hood. Even if it does it's been repainted a couple times and all the holes could be plugged in the side doors and the hood. Next time I try to run it I'll take the engine doors off and see if it runs cooler that way. If so that may fix everything.

The torque converter temp gauge follows the engine temperature up but doesn't go into the red. (I'm not 100% sure it's working correctly.) Is there a test port I run a line to just to make sure the reverse clutch pack is getting enough pressure? I sure wouldn't want to burn up a clutch in there just because it's not getting enough pressure.

I'm located in Plantersville, TX which i north of Houston.

[quote="seiscat"]Hi Jfehrle, Do not run that tractor into the red, you are risking major damage and expense by doing so. Being a little in the red is kinda like being a little pregnant. That is a good looking D6D LGP. Not too long ago I was asked why a recently purchased local D6D ran hot; the answer was easy, that tractor had engine enclosures but had a solid hood which caused the problem. I couldn't tell from the pic if your D6D had a perforated hood (holes like the side panels) or not. If you have a perforated hood the first thing to check is the radiator cooling fins, if you look from the engine side can you see daylight through the fins? Are the fan belts worn/loose? Are the belly pans clean?
I am also concerned that you did not say what the torque converter temperature was. The D6Ds will typically have the torque converter temp be higher than engine temp and cause the engine temp to rise. Is your torque converter temperature gauge working? If your engine is in the red the torque converter should also be in the red. This might explain the transmission problem.
Welcome to ACMOC. If you allow your profile (upper right corner) to show your town or general location there might be members nearby that can help.
Craig[/quote]

Lots of things to be checked for over heating or running hot before you get to transmission/torque converter pressure checks. Get one of those Harbor Freight $20 infra red thermometers and start checking things out. Radiator, oil coolers, individual exhaust runners etc. Also proper adjustment of transmission control linkage, working gauges, thermostats and water passages. There is a chance that temperature and transmission issues are related so start the sleuth work first.

Lots of things to be checked for over heating or running hot before you get to transmission/torque converter pressure checks. Get one of those Harbor Freight $20 infra red thermometers and start checking things out. Radiator, oil coolers, individual exhaust runners etc. Also proper adjustment of transmission control linkage, working gauges, thermostats and water passages. There is a chance that temperature and transmission issues are related so start the sleuth work first.

I'll start checking everything to see if I can find something hot. I think I read that the radiator should be around 20 degrees difference from top to bottom? If the hood is supposed to have vent holes as above that might just be it.
It takes about 1 1/2 to 2 hours of hard running to get it hot.

[quote="Jfehrle"]I'll start checking everything to see if I can find something hot. I think I read that the radiator should be around 20 degrees difference from top to bottom? If the hood is supposed to have vent holes as above that might just be it.
It takes about 1 1/2 to 2 hours of hard running to get it hot.[/quote]

except for the shifting problem your symptoms sound exactly like my experience. i replaced the radiator in my tractor before i figured out the real problem OUCH. i never allowed my tractor to get to the red but it would have. the pulleys didn't look bad but they were.

The air flow and belt slippage problems I described are the only problems that won't be found with a temperature gun.
Old Magnet's advice about using the temp gun to diagnose other cooling system problems is spot on.
Garlic Pete if you find that your radiator core needs cleaning it is a not too difficult of a DIY project. The tanks bolt on to the core and the cooling tubes can be cleaned using a thin metal strip. The D6C/D/E models that don't have an oil cooler beside the radiator core have radiator cores that can be reversed so that a "fresh" side will face the fan if you are having "sand-blast" issues. I use only antifreeze and distilled water in my cooling systems to reduce electrolysis.
I look forward to what you find on your D6C. Pictures would be great if you have time.
Craig

I don't agree with that first statement. Lack of air flow and/or pulley slippage will show up as poor heat transfer across the radiator tanks.