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D6D changing the cutting edges on the blade

D6D changing the cutting edges on the blade

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Kwright
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My D6D needs new cutting edges. Can anyone provide guidance on how to do this job safely?
I don’t like the idea of being underneath that blade and I’m not going to put myself in that situation without proper guidance from you professionals.
I may hire this out to a professional if you all feel that’s the best option.
Thanks
Kenny
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Tue, Apr 23, 2019 10:01 AM
bursitis
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when i changed mine i always cribbed the push arms right where they attached to the blade.

D46U straight blade,D46U cat angle blade,allis chalmers AD4 grader and Khoering 404 dragline. D4C 40A,D4 2T and scraper.

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Tue, Apr 23, 2019 10:24 AM
Casey Root
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Reply to bursitis:
when i changed mine i always cribbed the push arms right where they attached to the blade.
I cut a 30" log, standing on end to put under the pusharms on each side (30" because it was handy). Be sure to clean the rust, dirt and scale off the frog before you attach the new edges. Mine was a feedlot tractor pushing cow s**t. I had a good of Cat edges but didn't know the prior owner hadn't removed the thick rust. Consequently they broke pushing on rocks and stumps.
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Tue, Apr 23, 2019 10:52 AM
Paso Bob
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Reply to Casey Root:
I cut a 30" log, standing on end to put under the pusharms on each side (30" because it was handy). Be sure to clean the rust, dirt and scale off the frog before you attach the new edges. Mine was a feedlot tractor pushing cow s**t. I had a good of Cat edges but didn't know the prior owner hadn't removed the thick rust. Consequently they broke pushing on rocks and stumps.
As suggested, crib it up to support the blade. As also stated, cleaning with a wire brush wheel is really important. If the threads on the bolts are messed up, a torch can be the quickest way if you don't have a 3/4 or 1 inch air gun. If you buy new bolts, Cat bolts are superior and the cost is very comparable.
D-4 7U-43159 with 4S dozer and Cat 40 scraper, D-7 3T-1179 with Cat 7S hydraulic dozer, D-7 17A 13,944, D-8 14A-1160 with Cat 8S cable dozer, Cat 12-99E-4433 Grader. All runners and users.
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Tue, Apr 23, 2019 11:26 AM
JoeG
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Reply to Paso Bob:
As suggested, crib it up to support the blade. As also stated, cleaning with a wire brush wheel is really important. If the threads on the bolts are messed up, a torch can be the quickest way if you don't have a 3/4 or 1 inch air gun. If you buy new bolts, Cat bolts are superior and the cost is very comparable.
Remove the blade and flip it over. I hate laying on the ground to use a torch, makes no sense to me.
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Tue, Apr 23, 2019 4:31 PM
kracked1
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Reply to JoeG:
Remove the blade and flip it over. I hate laying on the ground to use a torch, makes no sense to me.
As JoeG just said has it been flipped yet? Might just need corner bits. Pics would help.
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Tue, Apr 23, 2019 7:36 PM
seiscat
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Reply to kracked1:
As JoeG just said has it been flipped yet? Might just need corner bits. Pics would help.
Make sure the is blade securely supported/chained. Make sure the mating surfaces are clean. Operate the machine for a few days and re-tighten the blade nuts, this is necessary because the bolts will stretch with initial use.
Craig
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Wed, Apr 24, 2019 8:06 PM
Kwright
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[attachment=53711]DB2BF3F0-EC1D-4619-B755-1F92B846F29F.jpg[/attachment][quote="Kwright"]My D6D needs new cutting edges. Can anyone provide guidance on how to do this job safely?
I don’t like the idea of being underneath that blade and I’m not going to put myself in that situation without proper guidance from you professionals.
I may hire this out to a professional if you all feel that’s the best option.
Thanks
Kenny[/quote]

I went ahead and hired a professional to replace the cutting edges however I still secured the blade with 2 chains for good measure.
Attachment
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Tue, Apr 30, 2019 11:50 AM
seiscat
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Reply to Kwright:
[attachment=53711]DB2BF3F0-EC1D-4619-B755-1F92B846F29F.jpg[/attachment][quote="Kwright"]My D6D needs new cutting edges. Can anyone provide guidance on how to do this job safely?
I don’t like the idea of being underneath that blade and I’m not going to put myself in that situation without proper guidance from you professionals.
I may hire this out to a professional if you all feel that’s the best option.
Thanks
Kenny[/quote]

I went ahead and hired a professional to replace the cutting edges however I still secured the blade with 2 chains for good measure.
Attachment
Thanks for posting the picture, that makes things easier. Look at the picture and note a pin sticking out horizontally from the hard-nose with a 3/8" bolt and nut through it, all you need is some 9/16" wrenches to remove it. Look at the blade hydraulic lift cylinder and note there is a piece of strap steel bolted to it, loosen the bolt that attaches it to the cylinder enough that it will pivot enough to fit over the hard-nose pin and put the 3/8" bolt back and the blade is now secure and can now be worked on safely with no chains needed. :doh:
Craig
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Tue, Apr 30, 2019 11:55 PM
seiscat
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Reply to seiscat:
Thanks for posting the picture, that makes things easier. Look at the picture and note a pin sticking out horizontally from the hard-nose with a 3/8" bolt and nut through it, all you need is some 9/16" wrenches to remove it. Look at the blade hydraulic lift cylinder and note there is a piece of strap steel bolted to it, loosen the bolt that attaches it to the cylinder enough that it will pivot enough to fit over the hard-nose pin and put the 3/8" bolt back and the blade is now secure and can now be worked on safely with no chains needed. :doh:
Craig
I also noticed there is quite a bit of dirt/mud in your roller frames, this will cause friction on the carrier rollers and keep them from rolling freely. The weight of the tracks is the only thing that turns those rollers and if those rollers drag/stop they will wear out quickly.
Craig
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Wed, May 1, 2019 12:08 AM
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