D6C undercarriage project

I must say, I never thought of using a chain saw to pull the undercarriage on a D6. And to break bolts with it too. Incredible!!! What chain do you find works best? the old round tooth or the skip tooth chisel?😆😆😆

Seriously, I'm glad to hear you have a shop. rolling in the snow is not fun.

Heating with a cutting torch prior to trying to break the bolts loose is a big help and works almost all the time. Give it a try on the ones that are already broken too.

2nd the rosebud torch. Next get good at sharpening drill bits. Then get your welding a nut on whats left skills out. Flip you frames over on some blocking, sit in a chair and think.... um work. You'll do that for a few days but will be worth it in the end.

Do more welding on track frames and then some more. The hardbar supports in the track frame like to crack and the rubber is probably shot along with the holder. Good time to fix up your hardbar. you can weld on that too when you get bored. Get all your hole threads in good shape. Run a tap through em all. Buy the proper cat bolts for your rollers, big difference. A exothermic torch might be a big help with the small rod on roller bolts. Cat call it the mini torch.

Lastly work safe. It's big and very heavy. Think.

If you find any free time I'd suggest if you dont already get a service and parts book. Information in them is priceless.

You can tackle that job. Sometimes I ask myself why I take on new projects. Take a deep breath and get some more ideas, and make a note of a supply/materials list you’ll need. Having a cozy building to work in helps too. Before you know it, you’ll be tearing the other side off and looking for more things to improve your D6. When completed, you can sit back and chuckle about how easy it really was! JM

Broken bolts can be a lot of xtra work, get a rose bud if you don't have one and heat the area around the bolt threads where you can then wrench back and forth until it frees instead of just yanking on the wrench. Use anti seize liberally on assembly, if this was done last assembly you would not have trouble now.

Doylex's comment about Cat bolts is spot on and their price is competitive. They have a finish process that over time makes them much easier to un-fasten.

I've found that the Cat copper anti-seize lasts better than any other product. We have used the Cat Copper on turbo charger bolts on the hot side and found it intact and viable after 4,000 hrs of operation.

Doylex's comment about Cat bolts is spot on and their price is competitive. They have a finish process that over time makes them much easier to un-fasten.

I've found that the Cat copper anti-seize lasts better than any other product. We have used the Cat Copper on turbo charger bolts on the hot side and found it intact and viable after 4,000 hrs of operation.

[quote="Casey Root"]Doylex's comment about Cat bolts is spot on and their price is competitive. They have a finish process that over time makes them much easier to un-fasten.

I've found that the Cat copper anti-seize lasts better than any other product. We have used the Cat Copper on turbo charger bolts on the hot side and found it intact and viable after 4,000 hrs of operation.[/quote]

Thanks, was planning on using Cat bolts, always seemed the best by far.

I've used a lot of nickle rather than copper, the oil patch uses nickle or nothing. Do you think the copper is better?

Also, bought a 3/4" Milwaukee Fuel cordless today, supposedly 1,500 ft / lbs break out force. I'm hoping with copious amounts of heat and rattling forwards and backwards I will accomplish something. Of course, I will need to weld some nuts on some bolts first.

For the really stubborn broken ones, you can drill a bit out and mig fill it back up. Then weld your nut on. Go as deep as you think will still let you mig fill to the bottom. As it cools the bolt shrinks and loosens. It has worked every time for me.

Silver, I've used both in the past and on occasion had some issues using silver. The Cat copper on the 1/4 or 5/16 inch bolts on the hot side of an air research turbo (?) that was mounted on our HD11AG looked like it was applied the day before, not 4,000 hrs prior. That was the most dramatic example that I've experienced. Absolutely NOT a scientific study.

I would like a report on your battery powered 3/4 impact. About 2 years ago I acquired the 20 volt 1/2" impact from Harbour Freight. It's supposed to have 1,200 lb of breakout. The primary use is tire rotation and odd jobs. So far, I'm really impressed. It broke loose suspension bolts that a Snapon 1/2" air wouldn't budge. I have no idea how it would hold up in everyday use.