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D6C 10K series oil coming out of starter housing

D6C 10K series oil coming out of starter housing

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jwar100
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I have oil coming out of the starter. I am losing engine power also. pulled the screens and scavenge pump they seem to be working good and clean. This dozer has a carco winch on it. what is wrong with it ?
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Wed, May 26, 2010 10:44 AM
zip
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sounds like the torque converter is flooding you probly need to have it resealed.
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Wed, May 26, 2010 11:25 AM
jwar100
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Reply to zip:
sounds like the torque converter is flooding you probly need to have it resealed.
do you have to pull it to reseal it ?
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Wed, May 26, 2010 12:04 PM
zip
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Reply to jwar100:
do you have to pull it to reseal it ?
Had the same problem on a d-8h the engine would run realy strong then it was like someone put the brakes on loss of power the torq was flooding so bad that the oil fills the bellhousing with oil ive seen the housings even crack because of this. yes you have to pull it to reseal it but make sure thats the problem first.
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Wed, May 26, 2010 12:40 PM
jwar100
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Reply to zip:
Had the same problem on a d-8h the engine would run realy strong then it was like someone put the brakes on loss of power the torq was flooding so bad that the oil fills the bellhousing with oil ive seen the housings even crack because of this. yes you have to pull it to reseal it but make sure thats the problem first.
thanks zip
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Thu, May 27, 2010 11:38 AM
edb
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Reply to jwar100:
thanks zip
Hi jwar100,
the t/c scavange pump should keep the f/wheel housing scavanged to about 1-2 gallons of oil.
Run the unit in all gears for at least 2mins and quickly stop the Main engine and quickly drain the F/wheel housing and you should only get 1-2 gallons maximum, depending on the size of the machine. any significant amount above this indicates that the T/Conv. seal rings and their mating components are worn or that the Scavange pump is worn/faulty--check the pump first.
Common cause of these pumps failing is that 2 gallons of oil should be installed into the flywheel housing any time the F/wheel housing is drained ( screen removed and cleaned) and/or a new scav. pump is fitted.This is necessary so that the scav pump has some lube oil to pump until the T/Conv leaks enough oil for the scav pump to pick up or else it runs dry until then!!!. This time can be considerable if the T/Conv is dry after rebuild.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Fri, May 28, 2010 11:30 AM
jwar100
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Reply to edb:
Hi jwar100,
the t/c scavange pump should keep the f/wheel housing scavanged to about 1-2 gallons of oil.
Run the unit in all gears for at least 2mins and quickly stop the Main engine and quickly drain the F/wheel housing and you should only get 1-2 gallons maximum, depending on the size of the machine. any significant amount above this indicates that the T/Conv. seal rings and their mating components are worn or that the Scavange pump is worn/faulty--check the pump first.
Common cause of these pumps failing is that 2 gallons of oil should be installed into the flywheel housing any time the F/wheel housing is drained ( screen removed and cleaned) and/or a new scav. pump is fitted.This is necessary so that the scav pump has some lube oil to pump until the T/Conv leaks enough oil for the scav pump to pick up or else it runs dry until then!!!. This time can be considerable if the T/Conv is dry after rebuild.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
I tried the above procedure. i took the pump off and put it in oil and it seems to pump just fine. i checked the screens and found some aluminum shavings in there. I am in the process now of pulling the torq converter to tear down and inspect.
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Sat, May 29, 2010 11:50 AM
bob
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Reply to jwar100:
I tried the above procedure. i took the pump off and put it in oil and it seems to pump just fine. i checked the screens and found some aluminum shavings in there. I am in the process now of pulling the torq converter to tear down and inspect.
Just keep in mind the Torque Inlet Relief Valve is mounted on the torque housing and can dump into it. Since you are taking the torque out it's a bit late to tell you this info you will not hear from anyone but me but here goes.
Cat torques have a leakage rate of 2 US GPM so I drain them and leave the plug out. put a 5 gallon container under the drain and stall the torque for one miniute then shut down. If the container is half full torque is fine, if you have a mess on the floor pull the torque but only after checking the inlet relief valve on your D6 or a 977 11k or 13X
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Sun, May 30, 2010 5:59 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to bob:
Just keep in mind the Torque Inlet Relief Valve is mounted on the torque housing and can dump into it. Since you are taking the torque out it's a bit late to tell you this info you will not hear from anyone but me but here goes.
Cat torques have a leakage rate of 2 US GPM so I drain them and leave the plug out. put a 5 gallon container under the drain and stall the torque for one miniute then shut down. If the container is half full torque is fine, if you have a mess on the floor pull the torque but only after checking the inlet relief valve on your D6 or a 977 11k or 13X
Aluminum particles in the strainer pretty much indicates a torque converter failure.
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Mon, May 31, 2010 7:56 AM
jwar100
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Aluminum particles in the strainer pretty much indicates a torque converter failure.
just an update as to the problem with the torque converter. What happened is that the lock ring on the shaft came off. this caused extensive damage to the converter. it ruined the shaft, and all the bearings in it. when the snap ring came off it pushed the shaft forward, this caused the starter housing to flood with oil. this problem happened very quick with no sign of trouble before hand. this machine is used daily and is maintained to very high standards. First sign of trouble was transmission oil coming out of the starter drive, a very noticable reduction in horsepower was noticed also. The transmission did however seem to operate normally. Cost of this breakdown, $1500.00 for a rebuilt torque converter. $ 2000.00 for mechanic and new oil, gaskets etc. two days of my time to haul to my shop, remove belly pans, wash dozer, remove floor pans, drain oil from torque, remove and inspect screens, remove and check scavage pump, replace removed parts, and get ready to load it. all in all this break down has cost about $6000.00 so far. i will post the final bills later.
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Sat, Jun 5, 2010 11:26 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to jwar100:
just an update as to the problem with the torque converter. What happened is that the lock ring on the shaft came off. this caused extensive damage to the converter. it ruined the shaft, and all the bearings in it. when the snap ring came off it pushed the shaft forward, this caused the starter housing to flood with oil. this problem happened very quick with no sign of trouble before hand. this machine is used daily and is maintained to very high standards. First sign of trouble was transmission oil coming out of the starter drive, a very noticable reduction in horsepower was noticed also. The transmission did however seem to operate normally. Cost of this breakdown, $1500.00 for a rebuilt torque converter. $ 2000.00 for mechanic and new oil, gaskets etc. two days of my time to haul to my shop, remove belly pans, wash dozer, remove floor pans, drain oil from torque, remove and inspect screens, remove and check scavage pump, replace removed parts, and get ready to load it. all in all this break down has cost about $6000.00 so far. i will post the final bills later.
Yes, it doesn't take long to add up....but that probably isn't all that bad.
I'd recommend you get a complete run down on all the pressure check points of the system.
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Sat, Jun 5, 2010 11:43 AM
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