d6b 44a questions

Hi, Crazylegs.
That '1/4 trun and locked' sounds as if it might be a hydraulic lock - water in a cylinder. Pulling all the injectors and turning the engine by hand may give you a clue.

First thing to do is to see if the radiator is full and the engine oil is full. If low coolant or high oil level (above the "engine stopped" mark), you may have problems other than the stuck engine.

One good way to check things is to loosen the drain plugs on every oil filled compartment and drain any water present. If more than a drop or two, (and a good idea anyway) drain a sample of the oil to look for metal flakes/chunks of gear etc. That way you will have some indication of the condition of the tractor before you sink a bundle into it to get it running and then find that you have a damaged final drive for example. Also a great time to drain any water and sludge from the fuel tank drain and change the fuel filters.

The D6B is an updated version of the 9U tractors with the D333 engine instead of the D318. The hydraulics are integral to the tractor, with a pump gear driven off the front timing gear/accessory drive of the engine and the tank and valves installed in front of the firewall instead of an add-on all-in-one unit hanging on the front of the tractor.

On the stuck engine, the first thing I would do after checking for/draining any water from the oil pan is to remove the injectors and put about a cup full of your favorite penetrating oil in each cylinder through the precombustion chamber. Then get a big ratchet or breaker bar and a socket to fit the bolt on the front of the crankshaft pulley and try to work the engine back and forth and a little bit farther each time until you can go all the way around. Probably also a good idea to remove the valve cover and check that the valves are not stuck so you don't bend one as you turn the engine. I don't think this is real likely to be a problem, but wouldn't take long to do. Look for any valves with excessive clearance.

Many times you will be ahead to remove the head and take a good look inside even if you can get it loose. You may have some serious pitting corrosion in the sleeves and stuck rings that you will end up having to deal with sooner rather than later.

Warning!

Taking the head off is the first step to an overhaul!😄

That is some good info thanks. The hydraulic lock crossed my mind but not from water because everything is sealed or so it seems from the enviroment The oil is black looks good maybe a little high but not much the radiator is not completely full the thermostat was removed to get to the fan shaft? (that is my next question) but first. I hit the ignition and you can see the crank bump at the pulley but it does not move. Tomorrow I am going back to remove the glow plugs or injectors maybe (how hard are they to take out on these?) and put some tranny fluid in the cyl. and work it a bit to see what will happen. Old magnet the ser. is.44a6470
A little history on this thing according to the seller his step father and a friend went in and got this thing and the deal was that if Dad would operate it and if something broke the friend would buy the part and dad would work on it and fix it or pay for labor. Well the shaft for the fan broke? (that is the question I had because I have no idea what he was talking about here). They called cat and it was going to cost 500-600 to get the part. the friend didn't want to spend that money so he got a machinist friend to make it. well he didn't use good enough steel and it twisted again. They got into a huge fight about it and have not talked to this day. Now what I know is the parts that are removed are fan thermostat and hard nose cross shaft. Oh and the shaft that twisted but I can't find that so I have no idea what it looks like or where it goes to even get an idea what to look for.
that is the whole story sorry for the long winded version.
thanks again
Ben

The D330 and D333 had lots of problems with water pumps and they went through several changes. Unfortunately I do not have the parts book for your sr. #. I have early 44A1-up and later 6856-up but I suspect you have one of several versions in between.

The last version is a 2S5597 water pump group but I can't tell you for sure if they interchange although I would tend to think they would.

Yours is a 1962 model.

There is little or no load on the pump but over tightening the belts and the long nose pulley on the D330 was to much for the early shafts.

how can I tell if I have the d333 or the d330. From something that I read I thought it was the d333 but I can't remember right now what made me think that.

D330 is 4-cyl, D333 is 6-cyl. Sorry, didn't mean to confuse, just covering the engine family😊

whew thanks I thought I had to start over on my research. would there be that much difference in the water pump on that? I am not sure that is what he is talking about anyway because the pulley is still on the shaft and the belts are loose so I spun the pulley and best I can tell it is good. Keep in mind that this is second hand info that I am getting so he may not be right on his nominclature that was a big word I need to go lay down.

Nor sure I am following you....the water pump shaft and pulley is also the fan support shaft and yes there were several evolutions of the shaft and bearings.