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D69u water regulator

D69u water regulator

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HUNTER
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Just pulled the cover off of my regulators to check them out and discovered the one was fully closed and the other was completely open. I presume that on a cold motor they should both be closed? I think I will change them anyway, but I am looking for the correct way to pull them. I have heard of a tool made to do this as well as homemade tools to do the same. Any photos to give me an idea of what to do/make?
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Fri, Mar 1, 2013 10:19 AM
ccjersey
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You can grind part of the head off some 3/8" bolts so that the remaining part hooks in the slots of the retainer ring and the ground surface presses against the body of the regulator when you stand the bolt up straight. That way it will keep the hook from slipping out of the notch at least when it's first breaking the retainer loose. Then put a short spool piece of pipe over the bolts and regulator and a piece of plate on top with two holes drilled in it for the bolts, put nuts on and draw them up to pull the retainer.

Or use a slide hammer puller

The regulators can be disassembled and lubricated I believe. Don't know if I would trust one after it had stuck, but I remember something about servicing them in some CAT literature.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Fri, Mar 1, 2013 11:01 AM
HUNTER
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Reply to ccjersey:
You can grind part of the head off some 3/8" bolts so that the remaining part hooks in the slots of the retainer ring and the ground surface presses against the body of the regulator when you stand the bolt up straight. That way it will keep the hook from slipping out of the notch at least when it's first breaking the retainer loose. Then put a short spool piece of pipe over the bolts and regulator and a piece of plate on top with two holes drilled in it for the bolts, put nuts on and draw them up to pull the retainer.

Or use a slide hammer puller

The regulators can be disassembled and lubricated I believe. Don't know if I would trust one after it had stuck, but I remember something about servicing them in some CAT literature.
Thanks for the tip. I was able to get everything out. Now I have a new problem. The regulators CAT told me would replace my old ones do not fit.They have a different style to the top and they make the rings stand about 1/8" too tall for the cover to go back on. Maybe the wrong regulator for the new part??
NEW CAT REG PART# 5H-0957
OLD CAT REG PART#VERNATHERM VALVE A511??
OLD RING #8B-9828
d6 9u8913
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Mon, Mar 11, 2013 8:17 AM
ccjersey
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Maybe grind some relief in the retainer?

I believe the new regulators do not use the retainer, but do not know how they fit in the housiing. An aftermarket version I got for a D311 fit on top of the flange inside the gasket space. Perhaps a large o - ring would work as a retainer in your case.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Mon, Mar 11, 2013 7:37 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to ccjersey:
Maybe grind some relief in the retainer?

I believe the new regulators do not use the retainer, but do not know how they fit in the housiing. An aftermarket version I got for a D311 fit on top of the flange inside the gasket space. Perhaps a large o - ring would work as a retainer in your case.
That s/n 9U uses a 6F9467 regulator.
5H0957 is not a correct replacement.
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Mon, Mar 11, 2013 9:43 PM
HUNTER
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Reply to Old Magnet:
That s/n 9U uses a 6F9467 regulator.
5H0957 is not a correct replacement.
Thanks for the help with the correct part#s. That did the trick.
Any way to convert my oil lines from the oil cooler to the filter base to flex lines( ie: hydraulic )?. Mine were removed some time ago and are too mangled to re use.
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Fri, Mar 15, 2013 10:13 AM
earthmover07
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Reply to HUNTER:
Thanks for the help with the correct part#s. That did the trick.
Any way to convert my oil lines from the oil cooler to the filter base to flex lines( ie: hydraulic )?. Mine were removed some time ago and are too mangled to re use.
3/4 pipe thread swivel fittings and 1 and 1/2 foot of hydraulic hose, route it from the filter base back to the filter base, but be sure to use brass 3/4 pipe thread fittings on the hose or you will take a chance of busting the cast on the filter base. I have three tractors I have done that way and it works out better not having the oil cooler. I can't seam to find any change in the engine temperature.
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Fri, Mar 15, 2013 10:44 AM
ccjersey
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Before you get comitted to reconnecting the oil cooler better test it with air. Lots of them are disconnected because they leaked.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Fri, Mar 15, 2013 8:31 PM
HUNTER
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Reply to ccjersey:
Before you get comitted to reconnecting the oil cooler better test it with air. Lots of them are disconnected because they leaked.
I have a new oil cooler already pressure tested and ready to go. For the hose and brass fittings, do you mean to use worm drive hose clamps( radiator hose clamps) and make the hose myself , or go with store made hydro crimped hose and fittings?. I would think the pressure would be low enough to use the worm drives, but I will let those with more experience rule.
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Fri, Mar 15, 2013 10:53 PM
ccjersey
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What he means is to bypass the cooler.

I believe you could easily find a set of stock steel lines, have several here. The problem with most replacement situations is matching the threads CAT used in the filter base. The NPT wil screw in, but it's tapered and can crack the casting. I think CAT used a straight thread in that sort of part. I haven't actually looked at what the thread is though.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Sat, Mar 16, 2013 12:59 AM
old-iron-habit
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Reply to HUNTER:
I have a new oil cooler already pressure tested and ready to go. For the hose and brass fittings, do you mean to use worm drive hose clamps( radiator hose clamps) and make the hose myself , or go with store made hydro crimped hose and fittings?. I would think the pressure would be low enough to use the worm drives, but I will let those with more experience rule.
I personally would use the pressure hoses. Not sure what you are using the machine for but if you catch a good stick or a rock come up around and catches, the crimped end hoses are much tougher and will take more abuse. The 2,500 PSI one's are quite cheap at the farm supply stores and should last a lifetime.
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Sat, Mar 16, 2013 1:04 AM
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