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D69U pony motor

D69U pony motor

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fred hogan
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I got my pony motor off and i'm disassembling it. One of the bearings on connecting rod went bad and did some chewing-up. Everything else is looking good. My D69U has serial # 9U21332. What exact year is that?

I did not locate a repair manual yet. Is that what I need for specs? I do have the parts booklet. My next step is to get crankshaft out and see if it can be turned or clean off the metal shavings. I got the big nut off the flywheel. I wedged a coulple of 2x4 behind it, but is seems pretty tight. Today, I located a large enough puller. Is there any trick to pull it off with a puller?
What kinda horsepower is in this little but heavy motor?
I appreciate your help, fred
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Sat, Mar 30, 2013 10:24 AM
ccjersey
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Don't do much pulling on the flywheel by wedging between it and the face of the block. Same for driving/hitting on the end of the crankshaft etc. The main bearing on the opposite end is also the thrust bearing and it is held in the block by a dowel pin which has come out on many a pony motor. This will result in the crankshaft moving in and out as much as 1/4".

the pony motor is covered in the SRB for the engine. In your case the D318 4 1/2" bore 6 cylinder diesel
Here's a pony specs page for the dimensions.
Attachment
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare timešŸ˜„
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Sat, Mar 30, 2013 10:56 AM
BillWalter
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Reply to ccjersey:
Don't do much pulling on the flywheel by wedging between it and the face of the block. Same for driving/hitting on the end of the crankshaft etc. The main bearing on the opposite end is also the thrust bearing and it is held in the block by a dowel pin which has come out on many a pony motor. This will result in the crankshaft moving in and out as much as 1/4".

the pony motor is covered in the SRB for the engine. In your case the D318 4 1/2" bore 6 cylinder diesel
Here's a pony specs page for the dimensions.
Attachment
Every flwheel I have pulled was with two ball peen hammers and a cat bar. Place bar behind flywheel to hold away from bearing. Place ball of one hammer on end of crankshaft and tap the head of hammer with second hammer. Saves a lot of time.
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Sat, Mar 30, 2013 10:54 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to BillWalter:
Every flwheel I have pulled was with two ball peen hammers and a cat bar. Place bar behind flywheel to hold away from bearing. Place ball of one hammer on end of crankshaft and tap the head of hammer with second hammer. Saves a lot of time.
Never had a problem pulling flywheels as Cat recommended.

In the shops I managed you would receive a safety violation writeup for using hammers in that fashion.
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Sat, Mar 30, 2013 11:17 PM
neil
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Never had a problem pulling flywheels as Cat recommended.

In the shops I managed you would receive a safety violation writeup for using hammers in that fashion.
I ended up using a 10-ton two leg puller on mine, along with 12 months of soaking with PBlaster and then some heat. It was on there.... Echo the comments being careful with hitting the crank axially - it doesn't really stand up to that sort of activity too well. Since you're going to look at the crank, take advantage and check out the bearings and the fit with the dowel - if it's at all loose, drill a new hole.
Cheers,
Neil
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Sun, Mar 31, 2013 1:09 AM
wimmera farmer
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Reply to neil:
I ended up using a 10-ton two leg puller on mine, along with 12 months of soaking with PBlaster and then some heat. It was on there.... Echo the comments being careful with hitting the crank axially - it doesn't really stand up to that sort of activity too well. Since you're going to look at the crank, take advantage and check out the bearings and the fit with the dowel - if it's at all loose, drill a new hole.
Cheers,
Neil
There seemed to be no way one of mine would come with a puller. I stripped the engine down, removed the crank with flywheel and under the 50 ton press. It came of with very little pressure just the better setup was all that was needed.
cheers from Aus wimmera farmer
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Mon, Apr 1, 2013 5:52 PM
fred hogan
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Reply to ccjersey:
Don't do much pulling on the flywheel by wedging between it and the face of the block. Same for driving/hitting on the end of the crankshaft etc. The main bearing on the opposite end is also the thrust bearing and it is held in the block by a dowel pin which has come out on many a pony motor. This will result in the crankshaft moving in and out as much as 1/4".

the pony motor is covered in the SRB for the engine. In your case the D318 4 1/2" bore 6 cylinder diesel
Here's a pony specs page for the dimensions.
Attachment
[quote="ccjersey"]Don't do much pulling on the flywheel by wedging between it and the face of the block. Same for driving/hitting on the end of the crankshaft etc. The main bearing on the opposite end is also the thrust bearing and it is held in the block by a dowel pin which has come out on many a pony motor. This will result in the crankshaft moving in and out as much as 1/4".

the pony motor is covered in the SRB for the engine. In your case the D318 4 1/2" bore 6 cylinder diesel
Here's a pony specs page for the dimensions.[/quote]


What is a SRB? and where do I look for one.?
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Tue, Apr 2, 2013 11:39 PM
fred hogan
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Reply to BillWalter:
Every flwheel I have pulled was with two ball peen hammers and a cat bar. Place bar behind flywheel to hold away from bearing. Place ball of one hammer on end of crankshaft and tap the head of hammer with second hammer. Saves a lot of time.


what is a "cat bar"?
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Tue, Apr 2, 2013 11:41 PM
ccjersey
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The typical arrangement on the old CAT equipment manuals is a Parts Book which will have every part of the tractor including engine and "attachments ". This includes things like lighting, cab, optional tracks, PTO units etc. Does not include hydraulic controls, cable control units, winches, dozer blades etc. these all have their own books.

Then there were operators manuals with simple maintenance and service instructions for daily operation

Finally there were tech manuals (the SRšŸ˜Ž for the machine not including the engine and a separate one covering just the engine as used in a variety of different equipment. The pony is covered in the engine SRB.

Mine is Form FE30238 - 4 (the 4 is a revision or printing)

A cat bar is some sort of small pry bar with a crook in one end. I think OM's problem with that technique is striking one hammer with another. Really bad idea! Hammers are for striking softer punches or drifts, not another hardened face. I dislike the technique for a different reason. The crankshafts thrust is controlled by the front main bearing which is doweled into the block. Lots of these dowels have fallen out and the bearing moves in the block and the thrust is excessive. No need to take a chance of damaging the thrust bearing or retaining dowel by smacking on the end of the crankshaft.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare timešŸ˜„
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Wed, Apr 3, 2013 12:42 AM
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