I want it! Lol. 9Us are one of my favorites to operate. The 318 engine with 6 cylinders puuuuurrrrssss like a kitten. Nice score!
If the booster unit for the steering leaked out dry, you should still be able to steer by using your muscles. The booster is located directly under the seat, with the filler plug located at the rear of the fuel tank. In your case, the nice winch is in the way; I’m thinking you undo the hex plug and use a long flexible funnel to fill it up (with 30 weight oil?).
The dipstick you pulled near operator station is for the transmission.
The serial # someone else can chime in on the year of manufacture, as I don’t have my book handy.
Where is the oil leaking from your referred to?
Post more pictures please. More eye candy for us to enjoy. JM
Always a good idea( I think) to change all the fluids on a machine you don't know the history on.
You can search on here and get pictures and info how to reseal you PS booster pump - if necessary.
The clutch must be engaged to drive that pump - so in neutral, stopped, clutch pushed forward , pump is not driven , won't work. The dip stick sounds like your transmission oil.
Perfect website for you, all the answers are here in one place
Always a good idea( I think) to change all the fluids on a machine you don't know the history on.
You can search on here and get pictures and info how to reseal you PS booster pump - if necessary.
The clutch must be engaged to drive that pump - so in neutral, stopped, clutch pushed forward , pump is not driven , won't work. The dip stick sounds like your transmission oil.
Perfect website for you, all the answers are here in one place
You may be under the impression that the steering clutch levers will create a turn by themselves. Well maybe, but maybe not. You normally have to use a steering brake in addition to the clutch to make much of a turn.....especially on a dozer that has been sitting up a while.
The steering clutches are dry clutches and the steering clutch compartment on each side has a drain plug that is removed to drain away condensation, rainwater that may find a way in and oil that may leak in from the bevel gear compartment in the center and the final drives. I think these will be about a 1" pipe thread plug with a square socket for a 1/2" drive. When the machine sits for long periods the clutches can stick from rust in the clutch pack and take some doing to get them broken loose and shined up.
The steering booster unit under the seat can be lifted off and resealed. One of the more common leaks is the booster pump which drives off the top transmission shaft. Any leakage from the shaft seal just disappears into the transmission/bevel gear compartment. The unit can also leak around the operating plungers in the front or around the hollow splined output pivot shafts which goes into the steering clutch compartment.
New aftermarket injector "valves" as CAT calls them are less than $30 each. If you want to test which one is causing the misfire or further diagnose it, you can easily swap injectors and even pumps to see if the misfire follows the swapped component or stays in the same cylinder. It is very common for the old CAT diesels to "lope" at idle. If it bothers you, try increasing the throttle setting a little. If that stops it you can raise the low idle setting by removing the curved cover on top of the governor and adjust the idle stop screw on the left (toward front of tractor).
When you drain the milky oil out of the transmission and bevel gear compartment, it would be a good idea to dump 5 gallons of diesel in there and run it back and forth a few times to clean the emulsified oil out.
I bought a D6 9U a little over a year ago. I had several similar problems. You might search for my posts and get some good answers that others here helped me with.
You have to pull the fuel tank to access the steering booster, but you can move it out of the way with 2 guys and some 2 x 4's - you don't have to lift it off the tractor. At the same time you could remove the sheet metal covers above your brakes and steering clutches. You can then get a good look at them and give them a good cleaning.
My clutch compartments were so full of grease and dirt and ? That no amount of flushing would have fixed them. I scooped some out with my hand the rest with scrapers and tools made for the job.
Last thing : there are a couple of zerk fittings on your dry clutch. If they are ignored you will pull the clutch to replace the center bearing. You can see one in your picture - the other one is on the edge of the flywheel, you may have to rotate the motor to have it appear.
Where can I purchase the manuals for a D69U? I’d also like to get the winch Manuel’s.
On another note, is removing the booster pump, assuming that’s what’s leaking, hard or just time consuming?
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