Tighten clutch adjustment if your lever is pulling back against the edge of the seat before the tractor moves. If it's engaging farther forward, but won't snap in and hold, it's too tight and needs loosening until it will snap over center.
Clutch adjustment is pretty simple, clean floorboards etc and cover on clutch compartment so you don't get dirt in the clutch housing. Use clean tools inside.
With decompression lever pulled, you can rotate the flywheel until you see the lock tab and 3/8" nut (9/16 wrench) that holds it against the clutch adjusting ring.
Loosen the nut. Tap the locking tab to loosen it on the stud.
Rotate flywheel half a turn and loosen the second locking nut. Then you should be able to turn the adjusting ring a few inches clockwise if it needs tightening or counterclockwise if it needs loosening. Test the pull on the lever and adjust more as necessary. You want a snap in, but not so hard you'll be worn out at the end of a day from pulling it. Spec is about 55 pounds pull while stopped. It is supposed to ease up a bit when it's running. Retighten to 30 foot pounds
On the brakes, the adjustment is necessary if the pedal moves more than 3-4 inches without stopping the track. If you adjust too tight, (less than 3 inches) effectiveness seems to be lessened too. Seems to be a sweet spot in the middle there where they're most effective.
Covers to access the brake bands are underneath the seat accessable from the rear working beside the winch without taking it off. Tighten adjuster nut until you get the correct pedal travel, It is oriented with the long axis of the tractor, tilted a bit forward from vertical and in line with the brake band. It has a little spring loaded gizmo to stop it from moving on it's own. Then check the band support screws underneath the tractor. To adjust them, tighten the brake up with the foot pedal and then run the support screw up until it pushes the brake band tight against the drum. then back off 1 1/2 turns and lock the lock nut. This keeps the band from sagging and wearing against the drum while the brakes are released.
While you're under there, check the drain plugs on the steering clutch compartments which are near the band support screws and lock nuts. These are a pipe plug thread about 1" diameter. Bevel gear compartment drain plug is on center line of tractor, so don't get that one unless you want to change that oil!
While the adjuster covers are off, you can also adjust the steering clutches to 3" free travel at the top of the levers. Before you do this, make sure there is nothing keeping the levers from moving back to the full forward position against the rubber bumpers. Sticks and other debris can collect in there and prevent them from working right.
The clutch adjusting nut on each side is on a horizontal stud which protrudes from the center of the tractor and has a smaller lock nut which must be loosened before moving the large adjusting nut next to the clutch yoke.
Have you checked the oil in the injection pump housing? The way your's is behaving, it might help to have something thicker in there, but it calls for 30 wt like the main engine. Also check the oil in the pony pinion clutch compartment.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄