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D68u final drive seals and gaskets needed

D68u final drive seals and gaskets needed

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wibbdog
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i just bought a d68u 10835 serial # have looked for about a year and finally found this one. what a dream to operate compared to my d4 (for pushing dirt).
I bought on auction. Never been repainted. it is missing the pony motor and has a starter on it which I have to use either to start when cold. Has anyone tried putting preheaters in the intake vs glow plugs? it will not be used in cold weather so I am not worried about that. And maybe the preheater wont work with indirect injection. by preheater in mean like what diesel tractors or a 5.9 cummins uses.
I have a pretty good leak at the sprocket it appears sometime ago it had sprockets with bolt on segments pressed on.
what seals and gaskets do I need? I have read about dual cone seals my parts book shows this number 7F5014 gasket
and 9H209 how many of what do I need for one side and am I missing something? and are these the right seals?

on Monday I went to chad enyearts place in Wyoming
chad was great he showed me around and I got some used parts from him
very easy to get ahold of and very responsive!
D4 7U 36840
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Thu, Jun 9, 2016 10:15 PM
rmyram
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unless someone has retrofitted the unit with duo-cone seals, the 8u's are equipped with what the call "bellows seals" there is one on each side of the sprocket, two winters ago, cat wanted $900 a piece. florin tractor had NOS aftermarket ones for about 250. you need two bellows seals per sprocket. you will need 4 gaskets per sprocket, there is also a steel plate that the bellows seals turns against, you will need two per sprocket.

also want to check your final drive bearings, do this by sticking a long crow bar between the track frame and the sprocket. there should be zero side play in the sprocket. the bellows seals had a robust design and would leak if they had wire or twine caught up in them, more commonly i have found that the sprocket seals leak when there are bearing issues. There are some good conservation bulletins posted by Josh on this forum, there are also some threads about repairing final drives on d6's on this forum, and a fairly in depth thread on the ACME site.

http://www.antiquecaterpillar.info/index.php?/topic/20358-ressurection-of-d6s/
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Thu, Jun 9, 2016 11:01 PM
mrsmackpaul
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Reply to rmyram:
unless someone has retrofitted the unit with duo-cone seals, the 8u's are equipped with what the call "bellows seals" there is one on each side of the sprocket, two winters ago, cat wanted $900 a piece. florin tractor had NOS aftermarket ones for about 250. you need two bellows seals per sprocket. you will need 4 gaskets per sprocket, there is also a steel plate that the bellows seals turns against, you will need two per sprocket.

also want to check your final drive bearings, do this by sticking a long crow bar between the track frame and the sprocket. there should be zero side play in the sprocket. the bellows seals had a robust design and would leak if they had wire or twine caught up in them, more commonly i have found that the sprocket seals leak when there are bearing issues. There are some good conservation bulletins posted by Josh on this forum, there are also some threads about repairing final drives on d6's on this forum, and a fairly in depth thread on the ACME site.

http://www.antiquecaterpillar.info/index.php?/topic/20358-ressurection-of-d6s/
when you fit direct electric start to these older cat motors even in warm Australia they don fir strait away and I was taught you never wind them over with the fuel on as it miss fires and can damage the starter and ring gear wind them over for say 10 seconds on full compression with the fuel off then just open the throttle and they fire right up
Having said that I dont know whether that would work any good in your part of the world in winter

Paul
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Fri, Jun 10, 2016 3:19 AM
edb
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Reply to mrsmackpaul:
when you fit direct electric start to these older cat motors even in warm Australia they don fir strait away and I was taught you never wind them over with the fuel on as it miss fires and can damage the starter and ring gear wind them over for say 10 seconds on full compression with the fuel off then just open the throttle and they fire right up
Having said that I dont know whether that would work any good in your part of the world in winter

Paul
Hi Team,
Service Magazine 31 Oct 1962.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
Attachment
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Fri, Jun 10, 2016 6:57 AM
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