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D6 Pony Motor Pinion Issue

D6 Pony Motor Pinion Issue

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sheddcanyon
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Hello everybody, I'm a new member who has been reading a great deal of posts on this forum. Thank you all for being a wealth of information. I am in the middle of rehabbing a pony motor and starting pinion assembly on a 4R D6. The motor is off with no surprises, just the typical wear/tear/dirt/grime that comes with a 70+ year old machine. We stopped using the pony years back because it was becoming difficult to start and we couldn't engage pinion to turn the flywheel. Pull start and roll start from then to now. After discovering Squatch253 on Youtube, I convinced myself that this would be an easy job to recommission the starting system.

I removed the clutch and starter pinion to discover no sleeve assembly connected to the shaft, just the stop. I reached in and found the shaft with the locks connected and in great shape. The four cap screws mounting the sleeve to the shaft were gone. I thought that whoever last worked on the sleeve assembly didn't use the lock. Looking at the catalog, though, there is no lock. It calls for four capscrews (part no. 4B7273). Are these the old bolts that used safety wire to secure them?

Other problem is that the pinion itself is very chewed up. Should I be concerned there are bolts and chunks of the pinion floating around the main bellhousing? Or are they resting quietly at the bottom? The 6 has been driven probably 40 hours since we stopped using the pony and, so far we don't see any bad results. Also, the oil I drained from the clutch assembly had gas in it - same as the pony motor oil when I drained it. Is there some crossover between the pony motor and the starting clutch housing? Finally, when I removed the assembly, there was some matted, fibrous material sticking to it. Looks like steel wool or shredded wheat but feels like some kind of fabric. Old shop rag? Are there any gaskets or surfaced pressure plates that would spin off something like that?

Thank you in advance for help, advice, jeering, etc.
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Tue, Jun 18, 2019 3:13 AM
PhilC
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[quote="sheddcanyon"]HFinally, when I removed the assembly, there was some matted, fibrous material sticking to it. Looks like steel wool or shredded wheat but feels like some kind of fabric. Old shop rag? Are there any gaskets or surfaced pressure plates that would spin off something like that?
[/quote]

Could be the links on the main clutch. They were originally canvas but later versions they used plastic of some form. I would check all the links on the clutch to make sure they have been replaced.
Usually any thing that drops in the clutch will be thrown away from the clutch. If it is big enough then it can punch holes in the housing. There is a fair bit of clearance under neath the clutch and housing but I would still check with a torch to see if you can find anything. If you are really worried then it does not take too long to pull the top half of the clutch housing out.
The small bolts do have a habit of falling out. One of my D6's had home made locking plates to help hold them in.
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Tue, Jun 18, 2019 4:07 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to PhilC:
[quote="sheddcanyon"]HFinally, when I removed the assembly, there was some matted, fibrous material sticking to it. Looks like steel wool or shredded wheat but feels like some kind of fabric. Old shop rag? Are there any gaskets or surfaced pressure plates that would spin off something like that?
[/quote]

Could be the links on the main clutch. They were originally canvas but later versions they used plastic of some form. I would check all the links on the clutch to make sure they have been replaced.
Usually any thing that drops in the clutch will be thrown away from the clutch. If it is big enough then it can punch holes in the housing. There is a fair bit of clearance under neath the clutch and housing but I would still check with a torch to see if you can find anything. If you are really worried then it does not take too long to pull the top half of the clutch housing out.
The small bolts do have a habit of falling out. One of my D6's had home made locking plates to help hold them in.
What's the s/n of this 4R?
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Tue, Jun 18, 2019 10:00 PM
sheddcanyon
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Reply to Old Magnet:
What's the s/n of this 4R?
4R1143. Great Machine!
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Tue, Jun 18, 2019 11:43 PM
sheddcanyon
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Reply to PhilC:
[quote="sheddcanyon"]HFinally, when I removed the assembly, there was some matted, fibrous material sticking to it. Looks like steel wool or shredded wheat but feels like some kind of fabric. Old shop rag? Are there any gaskets or surfaced pressure plates that would spin off something like that?
[/quote]

Could be the links on the main clutch. They were originally canvas but later versions they used plastic of some form. I would check all the links on the clutch to make sure they have been replaced.
Usually any thing that drops in the clutch will be thrown away from the clutch. If it is big enough then it can punch holes in the housing. There is a fair bit of clearance under neath the clutch and housing but I would still check with a torch to see if you can find anything. If you are really worried then it does not take too long to pull the top half of the clutch housing out.
The small bolts do have a habit of falling out. One of my D6's had home made locking plates to help hold them in.


I just talked to our retired mechanic and he confirmed he replaced the clutch links. Mystery solved. Thanks for your feedback.
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Tue, Jun 18, 2019 11:57 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to sheddcanyon:


I just talked to our retired mechanic and he confirmed he replaced the clutch links. Mystery solved. Thanks for your feedback.
Looking at the parts book for that s/n the starter pinion started out with neither lock wire or retainer on the cap screws so it's probably been through a few evolution changes. Unfortunately they are all doomed to fail due to the beating the sleeve, pinion, cap screws and locks get during operation. When they come apart it usually means the threads which are minimal at best are stripped and the sleeve holes hogged out meaning recovery is unlikely. A lot of them wind up resting in the flywheel clutch housing which doesn't seem to hurt anything although best removed.
If you have to have pony start then renewal of the parts including original shoulder cap screws, lock tabs and permanent loc-tite are about all you can do and hope for the best.
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Wed, Jun 19, 2019 1:26 AM
sheddcanyon
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Looking at the parts book for that s/n the starter pinion started out with neither lock wire or retainer on the cap screws so it's probably been through a few evolution changes. Unfortunately they are all doomed to fail due to the beating the sleeve, pinion, cap screws and locks get during operation. When they come apart it usually means the threads which are minimal at best are stripped and the sleeve holes hogged out meaning recovery is unlikely. A lot of them wind up resting in the flywheel clutch housing which doesn't seem to hurt anything although best removed.
If you have to have pony start then renewal of the parts including original shoulder cap screws, lock tabs and permanent loc-tite are about all you can do and hope for the best.
[quote="Old Magnet"]Looking at the parts book for that s/n the starter pinion started out with neither lock wire or retainer on the cap screws so it's probably been through a few evolution changes. Unfortunately they are all doomed to fail due to the beating the sleeve, pinion, cap screws and locks get during operation. When they come apart it usually means the threads which are minimal at best are stripped and the sleeve holes hogged out meaning recovery is unlikely. A lot of them wind up resting in the flywheel clutch housing which doesn't seem to hurt anything although best removed.
If you have to have pony start then renewal of the parts including original shoulder cap screws, lock tabs and permanent loc-tite are about all you can do and hope for the best.[/quote]

Is it typical for the pinion gear to get chewed up as well? This one definitely needs replacing. I'm trying to figure out how to post pictures here. I'm a little slow on this technology... not that I'm much faster on the old technology.
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Wed, Jun 19, 2019 3:12 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to sheddcanyon:
[quote="Old Magnet"]Looking at the parts book for that s/n the starter pinion started out with neither lock wire or retainer on the cap screws so it's probably been through a few evolution changes. Unfortunately they are all doomed to fail due to the beating the sleeve, pinion, cap screws and locks get during operation. When they come apart it usually means the threads which are minimal at best are stripped and the sleeve holes hogged out meaning recovery is unlikely. A lot of them wind up resting in the flywheel clutch housing which doesn't seem to hurt anything although best removed.
If you have to have pony start then renewal of the parts including original shoulder cap screws, lock tabs and permanent loc-tite are about all you can do and hope for the best.[/quote]

Is it typical for the pinion gear to get chewed up as well? This one definitely needs replacing. I'm trying to figure out how to post pictures here. I'm a little slow on this technology... not that I'm much faster on the old technology.
A chewed up pinion gear and matching chewed up flywheel ring gear is usually the result of improper operation of the pony motor by not reducing rpm during engagement along with use of the pinion brake to avoid grinding of the gears. An overall smooth working system gives the engagement mechanism best chances of survival.
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Wed, Jun 19, 2019 4:11 AM
wimmera farmer
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Reply to Old Magnet:
A chewed up pinion gear and matching chewed up flywheel ring gear is usually the result of improper operation of the pony motor by not reducing rpm during engagement along with use of the pinion brake to avoid grinding of the gears. An overall smooth working system gives the engagement mechanism best chances of survival.
Every time I open a compartment like clutch,gearbox crankcase ect I try fishing with a magnet to try and find any hiding spare parts.
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Wed, Jun 19, 2019 5:42 AM
dpendzic
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Reply to sheddcanyon:
[quote="Old Magnet"]Looking at the parts book for that s/n the starter pinion started out with neither lock wire or retainer on the cap screws so it's probably been through a few evolution changes. Unfortunately they are all doomed to fail due to the beating the sleeve, pinion, cap screws and locks get during operation. When they come apart it usually means the threads which are minimal at best are stripped and the sleeve holes hogged out meaning recovery is unlikely. A lot of them wind up resting in the flywheel clutch housing which doesn't seem to hurt anything although best removed.
If you have to have pony start then renewal of the parts including original shoulder cap screws, lock tabs and permanent loc-tite are about all you can do and hope for the best.[/quote]

Is it typical for the pinion gear to get chewed up as well? This one definitely needs replacing. I'm trying to figure out how to post pictures here. I'm a little slow on this technology... not that I'm much faster on the old technology.


try this--scroll down and click on upload photos
click on add file
click on browse
click on open
click on upload
click on insert inline
click on done
Attachment
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Wed, Jun 19, 2019 6:36 AM
Rome K/G
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Reply to Old Magnet:
A chewed up pinion gear and matching chewed up flywheel ring gear is usually the result of improper operation of the pony motor by not reducing rpm during engagement along with use of the pinion brake to avoid grinding of the gears. An overall smooth working system gives the engagement mechanism best chances of survival.


Yep!!! there's plenty of good quality videos on youtube showing improper starting procedures for starting diesels with starting engines. lol
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Wed, Jun 19, 2019 8:10 AM
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