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D6 9u wet clutch won't disengage

D6 9u wet clutch won't disengage

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Tydavis
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I was pushing out a dam to put new pipe in it and after bout 6 hours of pushing I accidentally killed it and started it back up and the clutch is stuck engaged and won't come out. I took the cover plate off the clutch housing and loosened the clutch by loosening the two nuts and spinning it counter clock wise to loosen it and I backed it off a ways and it still won't come out. Anyone have any ideas? I know it was getting oil on it because everything was oily in the clutch. What oil does everyone else use in their clutches?
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Thu, Apr 13, 2017 8:08 AM
ccjersey
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Is your clutch mechanism stuck as in it won't snap out?
or does it snap out but still won't slip?

If it's the latter, you might try filling it with diesel to wash the clutch.

Don't have anything rear mounted like a winch or CCU that you could engage to load the clutch and get it to slip?

What about tying/blocking the steering clutches back and trying to start it up in gear? At least you could get it back on level ground.

I have been using universal transmission/hydraulic fluid ( the cheap stuff in the yellow bucket that supposedly meets the "303" requirement). Should be better for a clutch than motor oil which was originally specified.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Thu, Apr 13, 2017 6:48 PM
ccjersey
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I guess first question should have been is your clutch brake working?

If I am thinking about this correctly, your problem is you cannot get the transmission in gear after starting the engine. This means the clutch may be stuck for real or maybe just enough to keep the transmission input shaft spinning against the action of the clutch brake. I have had a 9U surge forward a foot or so as the engine started up just from the oil "stiction" in the clutch disks, so I don't think it would take too much to make it impossible to get in gear if the oil was especially thick or needed changing.

I used to start the tractor without locking the brake or setting the blade on the ground etc. One day I had it parked on a concrete slab and it moved as the diesel fired up. Sure got my attention! Now I am more careful about placing the transmission in neutral.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Thu, Apr 13, 2017 8:38 PM
Tydavis
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Reply to ccjersey:
I guess first question should have been is your clutch brake working?

If I am thinking about this correctly, your problem is you cannot get the transmission in gear after starting the engine. This means the clutch may be stuck for real or maybe just enough to keep the transmission input shaft spinning against the action of the clutch brake. I have had a 9U surge forward a foot or so as the engine started up just from the oil "stiction" in the clutch disks, so I don't think it would take too much to make it impossible to get in gear if the oil was especially thick or needed changing.

I used to start the tractor without locking the brake or setting the blade on the ground etc. One day I had it parked on a concrete slab and it moved as the diesel fired up. Sure got my attention! Now I am more careful about placing the transmission in neutral.
The transmission is in neutral. The clutch lever is stuck no matter how hard I pull on it, it won't come out. The clutch lever is forward like it should be disengaged but the clutch still seems to be engaged. It has new oil in the clutch housing with maybe 10 hrs on it.
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Thu, Apr 13, 2017 8:58 PM
rmyram
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are you able to crank the engine over with the transmission in gear but the clutch disengaged? or does that try to move the tractor?
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Thu, Apr 13, 2017 9:57 PM
cojhl2
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Reply to ccjersey:
I guess first question should have been is your clutch brake working?

If I am thinking about this correctly, your problem is you cannot get the transmission in gear after starting the engine. This means the clutch may be stuck for real or maybe just enough to keep the transmission input shaft spinning against the action of the clutch brake. I have had a 9U surge forward a foot or so as the engine started up just from the oil "stiction" in the clutch disks, so I don't think it would take too much to make it impossible to get in gear if the oil was especially thick or needed changing.

I used to start the tractor without locking the brake or setting the blade on the ground etc. One day I had it parked on a concrete slab and it moved as the diesel fired up. Sure got my attention! Now I am more careful about placing the transmission in neutral.
[quote="ccjersey"]I guess first question should have been is your clutch brake working?

If I am thinking about this correctly, your problem is you cannot get the transmission in gear after starting the engine. This means the clutch may be stuck for real or maybe just enough to keep the transmission input shaft spinning against the action of the clutch brake. I have had a 9U surge forward a foot or so as the engine started up just from the oil "stiction" in the clutch disks, so I don't think it would take too much to make it impossible to get in gear if the oil was especially thick or needed changing.

I used to start the tractor without locking the brake or setting the blade on the ground etc. One day I had it parked on a concrete slab and it moved as the diesel fired up. Sure got my attention! Now I am more careful about placing the transmission in neutral.[/quote]

Number one rule, never start anything regardless of clutch position with the trans in anything but neutral.
That bothered me as I was reading ccjersey, the tractor surged forward!!!:rip:
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Thu, Apr 13, 2017 10:19 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to cojhl2:
[quote="ccjersey"]I guess first question should have been is your clutch brake working?

If I am thinking about this correctly, your problem is you cannot get the transmission in gear after starting the engine. This means the clutch may be stuck for real or maybe just enough to keep the transmission input shaft spinning against the action of the clutch brake. I have had a 9U surge forward a foot or so as the engine started up just from the oil "stiction" in the clutch disks, so I don't think it would take too much to make it impossible to get in gear if the oil was especially thick or needed changing.

I used to start the tractor without locking the brake or setting the blade on the ground etc. One day I had it parked on a concrete slab and it moved as the diesel fired up. Sure got my attention! Now I am more careful about placing the transmission in neutral.[/quote]

Number one rule, never start anything regardless of clutch position with the trans in anything but neutral.
That bothered me as I was reading ccjersey, the tractor surged forward!!!:rip:
Check the transmission interlock mechanism. Something may have happened in there that is preventing the clutch lever from moving.
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Thu, Apr 13, 2017 11:43 PM
Ray54
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I have had the oil pump break a shaft and things bound up. This was 30 + years ago don't remember just all the symptoms but know it would move to better place to work on it.

The rear seal was leaking and I was putting any ode oil that was around in it to finish the seasons planting. I believe I must of not looked close and had some sediment in the bottom of a bucket that got put in. Since have only used oil that is known for the clutch compartment, not the little bits that seam to be in every jug or bucket sitting in the corner.

In another case a new to me D6 after more than a 100 hours of us had the adjustment locks come loose and tighten the clutch so it would not lock over center. Found the threads on the locks where bad.

From experience I would suggest you check the rear bearing very closely and put all new seals and o-rings in the clutch when you have it out. Another thing to inspect closely is the clutch disc,the first part to ware out is the drive teeth not the friction surface. Had one that the teeth were 80% gone and friction surface was the same thickness as the new one.

Not the easiest job but very doable for a none mechanic to remove the clutch if you follow the book. But I will never understand why there is not a little more room from engine to transmission.
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Fri, Apr 14, 2017 12:17 AM
gemdozer
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Reply to Ray54:
I have had the oil pump break a shaft and things bound up. This was 30 + years ago don't remember just all the symptoms but know it would move to better place to work on it.

The rear seal was leaking and I was putting any ode oil that was around in it to finish the seasons planting. I believe I must of not looked close and had some sediment in the bottom of a bucket that got put in. Since have only used oil that is known for the clutch compartment, not the little bits that seam to be in every jug or bucket sitting in the corner.

In another case a new to me D6 after more than a 100 hours of us had the adjustment locks come loose and tighten the clutch so it would not lock over center. Found the threads on the locks where bad.

From experience I would suggest you check the rear bearing very closely and put all new seals and o-rings in the clutch when you have it out. Another thing to inspect closely is the clutch disc,the first part to ware out is the drive teeth not the friction surface. Had one that the teeth were 80% gone and friction surface was the same thickness as the new one.

Not the easiest job but very doable for a none mechanic to remove the clutch if you follow the book. But I will never understand why there is not a little more room from engine to transmission.
You could check the cluch oil pump iff the gear is still on the shaft some time the snap ring brook and the gear could slideb and squeeze in the cluch angagement
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Fri, Apr 14, 2017 1:00 AM
catsilver
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Reply to gemdozer:
You could check the cluch oil pump iff the gear is still on the shaft some time the snap ring brook and the gear could slideb and squeeze in the cluch angagement
If you look inside the clutch and the thrust collar comes right to the back as you push the lever forward, something is locked right up inside the clutch itself, maybe a broken plate or seized thrust bearing, the only safe way forward is to take it out and find out.
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Fri, Apr 14, 2017 4:18 AM
Tydavis
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Reply to catsilver:
If you look inside the clutch and the thrust collar comes right to the back as you push the lever forward, something is locked right up inside the clutch itself, maybe a broken plate or seized thrust bearing, the only safe way forward is to take it out and find out.
Well I went out after work and unhooked everything to the clutch lever besides the arm going to the clutch and still won't engage. Next I drained all the fluid out of it and there was black pieces and some metal pieces stuck to the magnet on the plug. Then I took the screen off the bottom to see what it looks like and it had a little bit of the same stuff stuck on it as the magnet. After that I took the pump off to check the gear on it and it seemed like everything is ok on it. The gear is in good shape and everything. So I guess next is just taking the clutch off and seeing what is wrong inside it. I hope it's not to much! Anyone have a break down of the wet clutch?
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Fri, Apr 14, 2017 9:02 AM
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