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D6 9U Wet Clutch Cover Removal

D6 9U Wet Clutch Cover Removal

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ELutter
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Working on removing the clutch on the D6 9U wet clutch to replace the bronze thrust washers, as one has cratered. I have removed the U-Joint, dash, etc, with the exception of the pulley / flywheel of the pony. The nut on the shaft will not budge. I can cut the nut off but do not want to unless I really need to. So to the questions:

1) Does the pony pulley / flywheel actually need to be removed (I would guess yes) in order to remove the clutch cover assembly?

2) Can the clutch cover assembly actually be lowered and manuvered and out from under the dozer?

Thank you in advance.

Ernie
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Mon, Jan 3, 2011 1:42 AM
Old Magnet
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Instructions I have say the pony engine flywheel needs to be removed....did you try about a 3/4 in. drive air impact wrench?

Also need to remove the oil pump to gain the required clearance for removal (out the top).

Directions on disconnecting clutch from flywheel:
1. Engage the clutch
2. Rotate the clutch and remove the capscrew (1)(only one pointed out which secure the clutch to the flywheel)
3. Attach hoist to clutch housing and remove the capscew and nuts securing the clutch housing to the flywheel housing.
4. Disengage the clutch.
5. Install two 3/8"-16 (NC) capscrews in the puller holes in the clutch housing flange and force the clutch housing away from the flywheel housing.
6. Install the nut on the starting engine crankshaft to protect the threads.
7. Push the clutch assembly out from the flywheel housing, tilt the unit back toward the seat and lift out.
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Mon, Jan 3, 2011 4:37 AM
ccjersey
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I can't see why you couldn't drop it out the bottom if you want. Those guys that wrote/modeled for the factory service book would get dirty doing it that way though.

Attaching a lifting chain onto it would have to be done on either side of the pony motor flywheel instead of just one in the middle like they show in the book. A long loop of chain would work and just let it bow out around the flywheel and slip it over two of the studs that hold the inspection/adjustment cover on.

OM left an "s" off the "capscrew" holding the clutch to the flywheel 😆, but I'm guessing you figured that out. Parts book calls out 8 bolts there

Are you going after the brass thrust washers 2H4483 and 2H4497 on the sliding collar assembly?
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Mon, Jan 3, 2011 5:01 AM
ELutter
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Reply to ccjersey:
I can't see why you couldn't drop it out the bottom if you want. Those guys that wrote/modeled for the factory service book would get dirty doing it that way though.

Attaching a lifting chain onto it would have to be done on either side of the pony motor flywheel instead of just one in the middle like they show in the book. A long loop of chain would work and just let it bow out around the flywheel and slip it over two of the studs that hold the inspection/adjustment cover on.

OM left an "s" off the "capscrew" holding the clutch to the flywheel 😆, but I'm guessing you figured that out. Parts book calls out 8 bolts there

Are you going after the brass thrust washers 2H4483 and 2H4497 on the sliding collar assembly?
Old Magnet and CCJersey,

Thank you for the help. When I bought the dozer a couple of months ago, the previous owner had four manuals for the dozer so I am not flying too blind. However, the whole U-joint thing was an interesting experience. I did miss the 3/8" cap screw to break the connection to the housings. Right now all of the 1/2" the cap screws are out of the clutch and all of the nuts / bolts are loose on the housings.

I was looking for help on going under the tractor, as once I break the connection, I am in it for the long run.

The serial number is 9u 28527. I am going after the sliding collar assembly washers. I appreciate the help as I did misread the parts manual. I will need to purchase 2H4483 and 2H4497.

As for the cap screws to hold the weight, I was going to weld a number 1 Crosby S-264 pad eye onto the inspection cover and lift from there. There is enough clearance and I figure it would be better on the studs.

I have removed everything required except for the pony flywheel. Do you know the required socket size for the pony shaft nut? Also, what is the bolt size required for the pulley puller?

Thank you for all the help.

Respectfully,

Ernie
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Mon, Jan 3, 2011 6:54 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to ELutter:
Old Magnet and CCJersey,

Thank you for the help. When I bought the dozer a couple of months ago, the previous owner had four manuals for the dozer so I am not flying too blind. However, the whole U-joint thing was an interesting experience. I did miss the 3/8" cap screw to break the connection to the housings. Right now all of the 1/2" the cap screws are out of the clutch and all of the nuts / bolts are loose on the housings.

I was looking for help on going under the tractor, as once I break the connection, I am in it for the long run.

The serial number is 9u 28527. I am going after the sliding collar assembly washers. I appreciate the help as I did misread the parts manual. I will need to purchase 2H4483 and 2H4497.

As for the cap screws to hold the weight, I was going to weld a number 1 Crosby S-264 pad eye onto the inspection cover and lift from there. There is enough clearance and I figure it would be better on the studs.

I have removed everything required except for the pony flywheel. Do you know the required socket size for the pony shaft nut? Also, what is the bolt size required for the pulley puller?

Thank you for all the help.

Respectfully,

Ernie
I'll have to check sizes tomorrow....can't remember off the top of my head.

Don't know about going out the bottom....I suspect that protruding casting for the pony engagement lever will interfear, it's a pretty tight fit. Can be done with the factory direct start cover as it doesn't have the casting protrusions that the pony version has.
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Mon, Jan 3, 2011 10:42 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Old Magnet:
I'll have to check sizes tomorrow....can't remember off the top of my head.

Don't know about going out the bottom....I suspect that protruding casting for the pony engagement lever will interfear, it's a pretty tight fit. Can be done with the factory direct start cover as it doesn't have the casting protrusions that the pony version has.
Pony crankshaft/pulley nut wrench/socket size is 2-1/4 in. Threads are 1-1/2 - 12 tpi.
Puller holes are 3/8 in. NC.
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Tue, Jan 4, 2011 5:36 AM
ELutter
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Pony crankshaft/pulley nut wrench/socket size is 2-1/4 in. Threads are 1-1/2 - 12 tpi.
Puller holes are 3/8 in. NC.
Old Magnet,

You are the man. I will try this weekend and let you know what happens. Hopefully, the socket will fit as the nut has been beat on pretty bad.

I appreciate all of your help.

Sincerely,
Ernie
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Tue, Jan 4, 2011 7:38 AM
wimmera farmer
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Reply to ELutter:
Old Magnet,

You are the man. I will try this weekend and let you know what happens. Hopefully, the socket will fit as the nut has been beat on pretty bad.

I appreciate all of your help.

Sincerely,
Ernie
Hi
I have had a similar problem caused by oil pump failure and was able to get it all out and back in without removing the pony flywheel. I used a 1/2 ton endless chain hung from the bush canopy and some very fiddly juggling but it did come out the top.
These tractors are fairly low, you would need a pit to drop it out the bottom.
It really helps to put 6 inches of timber under the tracks just to get under to remove the oil pump and some of the bottom bolts.
You will not lift it out by hand as it is way too heavy.
Check the pilot bearing in the flywheel they are usually well worn.
I used a classic parts replacement pump has worked well so far, the two brass thrust washers were available from cat and not expensive.
Good luck.
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Fri, Jan 7, 2011 6:27 PM
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