ACMOC
Login
ACMOC
D6 9U steering pump seals

D6 9U steering pump seals

Showing 1 to 10 of 31 results
1
TOGNOT
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to TOGNOT
Posts: 725
Thank you received: 0
When searching through old posts I could not find what I'm sure I have seen before: a photo or drawing of a "tool" to remove and replace the seals on the steering booster pump.

My pump is leaking and I'd like to seal that up before installing the fuel tank. My HOPE is I can put new seal in while leaving the pump on top of the trans???? I'm fairly confident the reality is not that easy a solution.

If any one can direct me to the "rebuild a pump" link, that will get me started.

Thanks!
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Fri, Jun 2, 2017 9:04 AM
ccjersey
Offline
Send a private message to ccjersey
Posts: 4,422
Thank you received: 0
Impossible. At least if you mean the pump shaft seal that leaks the oil from the steering booster into the bevel gear housing.

You are correct, time to do it now while the seat tank is off. You unbolt the steering booster unit and flip it over to remove the pump from the bottom. Then you pull the shaft and replace the seal. If you have leaks from the front plungers or output quills that sit down on the steering clutch release shafts, this would be the time to do those as well. Just the booster pump shaft seal will take maybe a couple hours at most.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Fri, Jun 2, 2017 10:58 AM
Old Magnet
Offline
Send a private message to Old Magnet
Posts: 16,701
Thank you received: 22
Reply to ccjersey:
Impossible. At least if you mean the pump shaft seal that leaks the oil from the steering booster into the bevel gear housing.

You are correct, time to do it now while the seat tank is off. You unbolt the steering booster unit and flip it over to remove the pump from the bottom. Then you pull the shaft and replace the seal. If you have leaks from the front plungers or output quills that sit down on the steering clutch release shafts, this would be the time to do those as well. Just the booster pump shaft seal will take maybe a couple hours at most.
Pulling booster seals. 7/8" x 14 tpi threaded rod and coupling.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Fri, Jun 2, 2017 12:30 PM
TOGNOT
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to TOGNOT
Posts: 725
Thank you received: 0
Reply to Old Magnet:
Pulling booster seals. 7/8" x 14 tpi threaded rod and coupling.
Just what I wanted - thank you. Of course no way to know the condition of the seals INSIDE the unit, but I can see the seals on the outside leaking. The unit (pump) does not lose oil quickly, I am hopeful only the outsides are leaking.

Who knows, maybe I'll be overcome with ambition and pull it just for fun.

Thanks again
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sat, Jun 3, 2017 2:46 AM
Andrew
Offline
Send a private message to Andrew
Posts: 886
Thank you received: 0
Reply to TOGNOT:
Just what I wanted - thank you. Of course no way to know the condition of the seals INSIDE the unit, but I can see the seals on the outside leaking. The unit (pump) does not lose oil quickly, I am hopeful only the outsides are leaking.

Who knows, maybe I'll be overcome with ambition and pull it just for fun.

Thanks again
These booster units are no big deal to remove and replace.
The pump shaft seals should be replaced . It will leak oil from the booster into the bevel gear compartment which shares the oil with the gear box.
Can be happening and you dont even know.
Pump shaft seals are back to back ;ie inside seal keeps oil in booster , outer keeps oil in bevel gear compartment. I think there is room for two seals facing each way. Seal are standard of the shelf and only cost a few dollars each.
There is also a filter screen in there that should be cleaned while you are in there.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sat, Jun 3, 2017 4:12 AM
TOGNOT
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to TOGNOT
Posts: 725
Thank you received: 0
Reply to Andrew:
These booster units are no big deal to remove and replace.
The pump shaft seals should be replaced . It will leak oil from the booster into the bevel gear compartment which shares the oil with the gear box.
Can be happening and you dont even know.
Pump shaft seals are back to back ;ie inside seal keeps oil in booster , outer keeps oil in bevel gear compartment. I think there is room for two seals facing each way. Seal are standard of the shelf and only cost a few dollars each.
There is also a filter screen in there that should be cleaned while you are in there.
Dang, you guys never cut me any slack. I won't have any reason to work on it next year if I fix it right this year....
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sat, Jun 3, 2017 11:31 AM
neil
Offline
Moderator
Admin
Super Admin
Send a private message to neil
Posts: 7,048
Thank you received: 25
Reply to TOGNOT:
Dang, you guys never cut me any slack. I won't have any reason to work on it next year if I fix it right this year....
Haha - famous last words : )
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sat, Jun 3, 2017 7:24 PM
7upuller
Offline
Deceased
Send a private message to 7upuller
Posts: 3,737
Thank you received: 0
Reply to TOGNOT:
Dang, you guys never cut me any slack. I won't have any reason to work on it next year if I fix it right this year....



Keep taking advice from OilSlick... he usually fixes things 3-5 times before getting it right. :doh: That way you can fix it next year and the year after...👍
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sat, Jun 3, 2017 8:03 PM
TOGNOT
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to TOGNOT
Posts: 725
Thank you received: 0
Reply to 7upuller:



Keep taking advice from OilSlick... he usually fixes things 3-5 times before getting it right. :doh: That way you can fix it next year and the year after...👍
Ok, I pulled the light weight steering booster off the D6 and brought it into the shop. Maybe if I had left it in the sun, where it is to reach 110 today, it would come apart easier.

I saw all the extreme weather warnings on the news so I took a break, and their advice, to enjoy an adult beverage while I ask another question.

I drilled out the pins on the top of the booster, until I hit aluminum - about 3/8" deep. I built a seal puller
With a piece of all thread and a ground down nut. I used a jamb nut to hold the "puller nut" in place.

I threaded the puller onto the seal ( ok, seal holder). I believe I have about3/8" thread engagement. Then with a couple washers I tightened down the puller nut to extract the seal holder. No movement.
I'm not real comfortable putting a lot of torque on something that, if it breaks, I'm screwed.

A little heat maybe ?

Thanks all
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Tue, Jun 20, 2017 3:37 AM
Old Magnet
Offline
Send a private message to Old Magnet
Posts: 16,701
Thank you received: 22
Reply to TOGNOT:
Ok, I pulled the light weight steering booster off the D6 and brought it into the shop. Maybe if I had left it in the sun, where it is to reach 110 today, it would come apart easier.

I saw all the extreme weather warnings on the news so I took a break, and their advice, to enjoy an adult beverage while I ask another question.

I drilled out the pins on the top of the booster, until I hit aluminum - about 3/8" deep. I built a seal puller
With a piece of all thread and a ground down nut. I used a jamb nut to hold the "puller nut" in place.

I threaded the puller onto the seal ( ok, seal holder). I believe I have about3/8" thread engagement. Then with a couple washers I tightened down the puller nut to extract the seal holder. No movement.
I'm not real comfortable putting a lot of torque on something that, if it breaks, I'm screwed.

A little heat maybe ?

Thanks all
Having to drill out the pins is a left over piece of miss- information. Those pins retain the seat/retainer, not the seal holders.
3/8" - 1/2" thread engagement is about right. Shouldn't have to heat but I don't see why not if you wish.
The picture shows about where the holders are located.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Tue, Jun 20, 2017 4:08 AM
TOGNOT
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to TOGNOT
Posts: 725
Thank you received: 0
Reply to Old Magnet:
Having to drill out the pins is a left over piece of miss- information. Those pins retain the seat/retainer, not the seal holders.
3/8" - 1/2" thread engagement is about right. Shouldn't have to heat but I don't see why not if you wish.
The picture shows about where the holders are located.
Thought I was being proactive by searching old posts and came across the " drill out the pin" thing. SO now, I'll tap those hole and install a couple set screws...

Seriously, I think I'll set it out in the sun for a couple hours. I'm sure it will get up to 150 degrees or so.

Any harm tapping on the "puller" lightly to knock the seal holders loose ? Or do they sit bottomed out inside the case ?

Thanks as always!:loco:
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Tue, Jun 20, 2017 4:41 AM
Showing 1 to 10 of 31 results
1
YouTube Video Placeholder

Follow Us on Social Media

Our channel highlights machines from the earliest Holt and Best track-type tractors, equipment from the start of Caterpillar in 1925, up to units built in the mid-1960s.

Upcoming Events

The Century of Caterpillar

| Elkader, 203 Johnson St, Elkader, IA 52043, USA

Clarendon Classic

Chapter Twenty Nine

| Hawkesbury Showground, Racecourse Rd, Clarendin, NSW, Australia

Chapter 18 100 Years of Caterpillar - Kingaroy

Chapter Eighteen

| Geoff Ralph Drive, Taabinga, 4610, Kingaroy, Qld.

Yorke Peninsula Field Days

Chapter Thirty

| 3429 Copper Coast Highway Paskeville, SA 5572
View Calendar
ACMOC

Antique Caterpillar
Machinery Owners Club

1115 Madison St NE # 1117
Salem, OR 97301

[email protected]

Terms & Privacy
Website developed by AdCo

Testimonials

"I also joined a year ago. had been on here a couple of times as a non-member and found the info very helpful so I got a one year subscription (not very expensive at all) to try it out. I really like all the resources on here so I just got a three year. I think its a very small price for what you can get out of this site."
-Jason N

Join Today!