ACMOC
Login
ACMOC
D6 9U Pony motor snag

D6 9U Pony motor snag

Showing 1 to 10 of 25 results
1
AgTech4020
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to AgTech4020
Posts: 16
Thank you received: 0
I've finally had enough time to start the attempt to bring my recently purchased D6 9U back to life. Having sat outside for the last 20 years and not been run in 7 or more its not looking so good so far.

I spent the evening working on the pony motor. After completely disassembling, cleaning, and repairing the pony's starter I was able to get the pony to crank over. I had previously pulled the plugs and sprayed some light oil in the bore while rolling the pony over by hand. Once I had the starter working the pony started to crank real well for about 10 seconds after which it started to develop a heavy knock. I rolled the pony over by hand and there is an intermittent tight spot often followed by a clatter and klunk. I observed the pistons through the plug holes and there is very little play in the rods based on their motion when rocking the flywheel. I do notice that the crankshaft main bearings are slightly loose as I can move the flywheel up and down about 1/32". It almost sounds like on the engagement linkage is binding. After rocking the flywheel back and forth through a tight spot it again spun free. I again cranked it with the plugs in using the electric starter, after about 10 seconds of cranking normal the knock started to come back and then it locked tight. Again I was able to rock the flywheel back and forth and it freed back up again. Any idea where I should be looking?

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks!
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, Aug 27, 2015 10:09 AM
cojhl2
Offline
Member
Send a private message to cojhl2
Posts: 961
Thank you received: 0
I went through a very analogous situation last year and it turned out to be the magneto.

Doesn't seem possible the mag could do it but it did.

I would have had the whole darn engine apart until the guys at Dayton Tractor led me straight.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, Aug 27, 2015 11:28 AM
JoeG
Offline
Send a private message to JoeG
Posts: 301
Thank you received: 0
Reply to cojhl2:
I went through a very analogous situation last year and it turned out to be the magneto.

Doesn't seem possible the mag could do it but it did.

I would have had the whole darn engine apart until the guys at Dayton Tractor led me straight.
Drain the coolant down and remove the heads, then you can observe the valves and check the pistons for excessive rod slop much easier this way. If you have a valve issue you can have the tight spot symptom you are describing. I any case the head gaskets can be re-used and you can visually check your bores, valve operation, etc. The next step if you can't find anything wrong is much more work but remove the heads first and go from there.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, Aug 27, 2015 4:25 PM
AgTech4020
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to AgTech4020
Posts: 16
Thank you received: 0
Reply to JoeG:
Drain the coolant down and remove the heads, then you can observe the valves and check the pistons for excessive rod slop much easier this way. If you have a valve issue you can have the tight spot symptom you are describing. I any case the head gaskets can be re-used and you can visually check your bores, valve operation, etc. The next step if you can't find anything wrong is much more work but remove the heads first and go from there.
It did actually fire a few times while cranking so I'm reasonably confident the valves are working and my rod slop appears to be acceptable based on what I can see through the spark plug holes. I was wondering if I could re-use the head gaskets so that is good news if I have to pull them. I will clean and lube the mag and see what happens there, it has great spark (shocked the heck out of me a couple times now). I need to get this machine running so I can get it on a truck and headed home. Guessing I'm going to have to pull the pony and go through it based on the bearing play on the crankshaft, just hoping it is good for a couple starts first.

Thanks!
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, Aug 27, 2015 6:14 PM
Old Magnet
Offline
Send a private message to Old Magnet
Posts: 16,696
Thank you received: 18
Reply to AgTech4020:
It did actually fire a few times while cranking so I'm reasonably confident the valves are working and my rod slop appears to be acceptable based on what I can see through the spark plug holes. I was wondering if I could re-use the head gaskets so that is good news if I have to pull them. I will clean and lube the mag and see what happens there, it has great spark (shocked the heck out of me a couple times now). I need to get this machine running so I can get it on a truck and headed home. Guessing I'm going to have to pull the pony and go through it based on the bearing play on the crankshaft, just hoping it is good for a couple starts first.

Thanks!
Do not ignore the suggestion to check the mag. Could be a problem with the impulse mechanism. It should start out in the retard position and automatically shift to regular timing as the pony picks up revs. Could be that is what is causing the bind as it attempts to run.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, Aug 27, 2015 9:31 PM
AgTech4020
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to AgTech4020
Posts: 16
Thank you received: 0
Reply to Old Magnet:
Do not ignore the suggestion to check the mag. Could be a problem with the impulse mechanism. It should start out in the retard position and automatically shift to regular timing as the pony picks up revs. Could be that is what is causing the bind as it attempts to run.
Great news, after cleaning the mag it turned out that Joe was correct. I found that the exhaust manifold for the left side cylinder has a 1" hole at the elbow. After draining the coolant and pulling the head I found that the cylinder had made a hockey puck out of mud. Once I clean the cylinder up, bolted the head back on, and put the coolant back in the pony roared to life after only a couple cranks! In addition the diesel rolls over and even seems to have good compression based on how hard the pony labors. I let the pony crank the diesel for a couple minutes at low idle, the diesel pegged the oil pressure and fuel pressure gauges.

Now my new problem. The throttle lever on the side of the injection pump won't move more then a fraction of an inch. I removed the side cover on the injection pump and checked the rack to find it appears to move when nudged left or right gently, at least it springs back to the off position. With the engine turning over all the pumping plungers work up and down. So now I'm looking for advice on what I need to take apart to free up the throttle lever. I'm starting to get excited as it looks as if it might run if I can sort out the throttle lever problem. Open to suggestions.

Thanks!
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sat, Aug 29, 2015 9:00 AM
wimmera farmer
Offline
Send a private message to wimmera farmer
Posts: 449
Thank you received: 2
Reply to AgTech4020:
Great news, after cleaning the mag it turned out that Joe was correct. I found that the exhaust manifold for the left side cylinder has a 1" hole at the elbow. After draining the coolant and pulling the head I found that the cylinder had made a hockey puck out of mud. Once I clean the cylinder up, bolted the head back on, and put the coolant back in the pony roared to life after only a couple cranks! In addition the diesel rolls over and even seems to have good compression based on how hard the pony labors. I let the pony crank the diesel for a couple minutes at low idle, the diesel pegged the oil pressure and fuel pressure gauges.

Now my new problem. The throttle lever on the side of the injection pump won't move more then a fraction of an inch. I removed the side cover on the injection pump and checked the rack to find it appears to move when nudged left or right gently, at least it springs back to the off position. With the engine turning over all the pumping plungers work up and down. So now I'm looking for advice on what I need to take apart to free up the throttle lever. I'm starting to get excited as it looks as if it might run if I can sort out the throttle lever problem. Open to suggestions.

Thanks!
Have you disconnected the linkage at the fuel pump end and tried moving it. If you are half lucky it is stuck where it pivot on the air cleaner.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sat, Aug 29, 2015 4:52 PM
AgTech4020
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to AgTech4020
Posts: 16
Thank you received: 0
Reply to wimmera farmer:
Have you disconnected the linkage at the fuel pump end and tried moving it. If you are half lucky it is stuck where it pivot on the air cleaner.
I wish it was that easy. My linkage is all free it is seized up in the pump itself. Thanks for the thought however.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sat, Aug 29, 2015 5:35 PM
drujinin
Offline
Send a private message to drujinin
Posts: 3,852
Thank you received: 1
Reply to AgTech4020:
I wish it was that easy. My linkage is all free it is seized up in the pump itself. Thanks for the thought however.
Linkage moves, Rack moves. So it maybe a little rusty inside the Governor Housing? If it was left in the "Fuel Shut Off" position, then it maybe hanging up on the Shut Off Detent. Its earlier in the morning without a Manual nearby but I am pretty confident that I am thinking right.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sat, Aug 29, 2015 7:08 PM
AgTech4020
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to AgTech4020
Posts: 16
Thank you received: 0
Reply to drujinin:
Linkage moves, Rack moves. So it maybe a little rusty inside the Governor Housing? If it was left in the "Fuel Shut Off" position, then it maybe hanging up on the Shut Off Detent. Its earlier in the morning without a Manual nearby but I am pretty confident that I am thinking right.
I started to take the cover off the back of the pump housing until I realized it was completely full of fuel. I figured my next step would be to remove the throttle lever from the side of the pump housing and remove the round cover underneath. I have sprayed it with penetrating oil and worked the lever but all I get is a small amount of movement and a soft ratcheting sound. I figure I'm better off attempting to take it apart then doing damage reefing on it.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sat, Aug 29, 2015 7:40 PM
ccjersey
Offline
Send a private message to ccjersey
Posts: 4,422
Thank you received: 0
There is a ratcheting mechanism made into the cover on the side of the governor housing. These usually get so worn they will not hold, but who knows.

The governor housing should not have any fuel in it. It shares the oil that is added to the injection pump housing. There is a drain line to drain away fuel that may leak from the pump plungers so check that it is not crushed or clogged. If that seems to be ok, then there is a plug in the rear of the injection pump housing fuel gallery that has an o-ring 8b4987 which could be bad. The same size o-ring seals the joint where the IP housing bolts to the fuel filter tower. When that one leaks, the fuel finds its way into the diesel engine crankcase, usually in a big way! The seal on the IP drive shaft must be holding well or your engine would have diesel in the oil.

Tried to attach some parts book scans, but my android tablet will not drag and drop the files into the attachment box for this post.....sorry!
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sat, Aug 29, 2015 9:09 PM
Showing 1 to 10 of 25 results
1
YouTube Video Placeholder

Follow Us on Social Media

Our channel highlights machines from the earliest Holt and Best track-type tractors, equipment from the start of Caterpillar in 1925, up to units built in the mid-1960s.

Upcoming Events

Cromford Steam Rally

Chapter Two

| Highacres Farm, Dewey Lane, Brackenfield, Derbyshire DE55 6DB, UK

The Century of Caterpillar

| Elkader, 203 Johnson St, Elkader, IA 52043, USA

100 YEARS OF CATERPILLAR IN TASMANIA

Chapter Nineteen

| 2 Winkleigh Rd, Exeter TAS 7275
View Calendar
ACMOC

Antique Caterpillar
Machinery Owners Club

1115 Madison St NE # 1117
Salem, OR 97301

[email protected]

Terms & Privacy
Website developed by AdCo

Testimonials

"I also joined a year ago. had been on here a couple of times as a non-member and found the info very helpful so I got a one year subscription (not very expensive at all) to try it out. I really like all the resources on here so I just got a three year. I think its a very small price for what you can get out of this site."
-Jason N

Join Today!