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D6 9U oil cooler

D6 9U oil cooler

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Rodney R
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I'm thinking that I should not get rid of my leaking oil cooler, but has anybody done anything about retrofitting another style of oil cooler? I know that some newer types cool the oil thru an oil filter base - did any new cats use anything like that, that would retrofit?


Rodney
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Sat, Apr 5, 2014 8:46 AM
ccjersey
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Not worth it. Modern oils and all....

If you ever need to replace radiator core, order the full width one and can the old cooler, but till then loop the oil cooler lines back to filter base or if you want to do it neater, you can plug the holes and remove the cooler bypass valve to let the oil flow easier through the filter base.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Sat, Apr 5, 2014 10:27 AM
Rodney R
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Reply to ccjersey:
Not worth it. Modern oils and all....

If you ever need to replace radiator core, order the full width one and can the old cooler, but till then loop the oil cooler lines back to filter base or if you want to do it neater, you can plug the holes and remove the cooler bypass valve to let the oil flow easier through the filter base.
I was doing some searching, and I thought that the 6cylinder engines maybe needed the cooler, or did I read that wrong? After it runs an hour or so, the oil does get pretty warm.

Rodney
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Sun, Apr 6, 2014 6:08 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Rodney R:
I was doing some searching, and I thought that the 6cylinder engines maybe needed the cooler, or did I read that wrong? After it runs an hour or so, the oil does get pretty warm.

Rodney
That's my thinking also. OK to remove on the D2's and D4's but the D6 should retain it's cooler, at least in my opinion.
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Sun, Apr 6, 2014 8:11 AM
Rodney R
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Reply to Old Magnet:
That's my thinking also. OK to remove on the D2's and D4's but the D6 should retain it's cooler, at least in my opinion.
I was thinking a couple things - did anybody ever make an adapter to convert to a canister type oil filter? My other thought - I know lots of parts from the D5 can be used to upgrade the 9U D6...... is that engine similar, or is it a different animal? I hate to do away with the cooler, if all else fails I was thinking of chopping the lines, and mounting some sort of cooler in the belly pan. I hate to spend a lot of time/money on this old thing, but I'd like to keep it working, cause I'm too cheap to buy a better one.

Rodney
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Mon, Apr 7, 2014 4:46 AM
ccjersey
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If it was mine.........I would loop the two cooler lines together and put in a T so that you could screw in a temperature gauge to monitor the oil temperature during operation. A couple thread to sweat adapters, a sweat el or two, a threaded Tee and a gauge with bushing/adapter, a little silver solder and flux and you have a real live experiment which could benefit others as well.

I cannot imagine how a 1940's technology 75 hp engine of 525 cubic inches displacement which has an oil capacity of 22 quarts would fall apart if it didn't have an oil cooler. Seems like most references I could find online recommend oil temperature stay less than 212*F/100*C under normal loads and for normal change intervals. Of course some engines use oil as a primary cooling fluid (Deutz for example) as much as a lubricant, so maybe a worst case situation as regards to oil temperatures.

Link to AGTalk discussion of Deutz engines and others with references to max permissible oil temperature.
http://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=316249&DisplayType=nested&setCookie=1
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Mon, Apr 7, 2014 7:03 AM
drujinin
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Reply to ccjersey:
If it was mine.........I would loop the two cooler lines together and put in a T so that you could screw in a temperature gauge to monitor the oil temperature during operation. A couple thread to sweat adapters, a sweat el or two, a threaded Tee and a gauge with bushing/adapter, a little silver solder and flux and you have a real live experiment which could benefit others as well.

I cannot imagine how a 1940's technology 75 hp engine of 525 cubic inches displacement which has an oil capacity of 22 quarts would fall apart if it didn't have an oil cooler. Seems like most references I could find online recommend oil temperature stay less than 212*F/100*C under normal loads and for normal change intervals. Of course some engines use oil as a primary cooling fluid (Deutz for example) as much as a lubricant, so maybe a worst case situation as regards to oil temperatures.

Link to AGTalk discussion of Deutz engines and others with references to max permissible oil temperature.
http://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=316249&DisplayType=nested&setCookie=1
I was going to post the same thing about T/C'ing the oil line.
BUT!
Need a good solid steady load at Full RATED Power for at least 2 hours to get good data!
Preferrably at a high ambient temperature also!
Most Commercail oils will handle 220 with minmal evidence of shortened life.
But seen as the general consensus is to run only CAT Oil.
Then I figured I would wait and see!
:confused2:
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Mon, Apr 7, 2014 7:25 AM
Rodney R
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Reply to drujinin:
I was going to post the same thing about T/C'ing the oil line.
BUT!
Need a good solid steady load at Full RATED Power for at least 2 hours to get good data!
Preferrably at a high ambient temperature also!
Most Commercail oils will handle 220 with minmal evidence of shortened life.
But seen as the general consensus is to run only CAT Oil.
Then I figured I would wait and see!
:confused2:
OK, so I should loop the oil lines, and tee them to a temp gauge..... I will use hyd hose for the loop..... How do I attach it - just a couple of worm style hose clamps, or do I need a crimp fitting? Anybody know what the thread might be on the oil filter base? I have a crimper here, I would just have to get the fittings/adapters. The loop can be pretty tight, right, no advantage to having the hose real long, right?

Rodney
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Mon, Apr 7, 2014 8:29 AM
D4C Charlie
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Reply to Rodney R:
OK, so I should loop the oil lines, and tee them to a temp gauge..... I will use hyd hose for the loop..... How do I attach it - just a couple of worm style hose clamps, or do I need a crimp fitting? Anybody know what the thread might be on the oil filter base? I have a crimper here, I would just have to get the fittings/adapters. The loop can be pretty tight, right, no advantage to having the hose real long, right?

Rodney
On my old 212 grader I used the oil cooler fittings from the ends of the pipe. I heated the compression like fitting off and soldered them on to some copper tube. I formed the copper tube into a trombone slide type thing and just plumbed it up to make a loop for the oil to flow around and back in the base. This was years ago and no trouble. If this is not clear I could take a pic for you. Charlie
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Mon, Apr 7, 2014 8:46 AM
ccjersey
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The problem with using standard fittings is the oil cooler lines (and fuel line) use a straight thread nut to compress a male flare ferrule into the socket of the filter base. You can use pipe thread fittings (tapered threads) if you are careful not to overtighten them and crack your filter base.

Someone will know for sure, but I think the fittings will be 3/4" NPT? I would certainly try a pipe plug in the hole before I purchased the fittings.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Mon, Apr 7, 2014 8:04 PM
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