D6 9U Hasn't Moved In Seven Years

I fired up the main engine today. It ran real nice. Can anyone tell me is there anything I should do before I start driving it around. I noticed on one of the hydraulic rams it has a rust spot the size of a dime. I heard I should sand it with fine sand paper. Is that a good idea? Can anyone tell me where I put the hydraulic fluid in at?
Thanks

I think I,d drain and flush out the cooling system and change the oils in the starting engine and the diesel to start with before I ran it. Also check all the other oil levels and grease the rollers and idlers.The hyd. oil tank is in the front of the radiator if it has that tank on it and it has a cap to check the oil.I don think it would hurt to use some real fine emery cloth to lightly sand the rust off the ram but don,t go too hard on it. Don,t forget to remove the diesel block drain plug behind the area of the inj. housing lower in the block so you get all the old coolant drained from it and then flush it out with the plug out.I believe they have a 3/4" hex head on the plug if I remember correctly.

Either real fine emery cloth or crocus cloth should polish that ram up. The main thing to look for is if the chrome is flaking off and to get rough edges off it otherwise it'll tear up the seal.
SJ has it right . .check all oil and coolant levels and change as needed. The last thing you'll want is for the cooling system to rust up or crack the block if it freezes.

On any compartment you are not changing the oil in, loosen the drain plug enough to take a small sample of the lubricant to make sure there aren't gear teeth, water and sludge etc hiding under the oil on top.

Sometimes you can drain the water and get good lube out following it. In that case, I would run the tractor enough to get it good and warm and then drain the cases while it's still warm. That way you will get rid of more moisture and sludge in one oil change.

Also check the steering clutch cases if they have plugs in them, (and even of they don't, they could be plugged with mud). They should be dry, but sometimes will be full of water and seepage of lubricants from the bevel gear and final drive cases on either side. This needs to be removed and the cases flushed out with diesel or kerosene as described in the owners manual.

With grease type track rollers, it would be a very good idea to lube them with the proper track lube before driving the tractor very far. With lubed for life rollers, you can still pour 30 wt oil in them if you can get the plugs out. It usually takes a good tool to get the plugs broken loose!

Have fun!

Any pictures?