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D6 9U electric starter/wiring

D6 9U electric starter/wiring

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markpa13
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I picked up my first Cat to clear some land around the farm. It is a 1954? D69U and it is driving me crazy, I'm hoping some of you guys might be able to help me out. When I got it, the pony motor was frozen up, but it had an electric starter on the 318. It would start and run with a lot of ether, but was in desperate need of new rings. New rings turned into a complete overhaul. So I finally got her back together, minus the pony and half my life savings. I just sealed off that area and built a battery box to fit in it's place. Everything looks good, but the electric starter is getting extremely hot and cutting out after about 5 seconds of cranking. At one point the battery terminal end literally melted. In the past, the battery cables would get hot after continuous cranking, but never like this, or in such a short period of time. Any advice on what would be causing everything to heat up like this?
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Sun, Nov 18, 2012 1:34 AM
Old Magnet
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Is that an original 24V inertia type bendix model starter? If so it may be worn also, needing brushes or the armature may be dragging on the pole shoes if the bearings are worn out. Starting a rebuilt/tight engine is always a big load on the starter. Battery lead size may also be a big contributor if they are to small.
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Sun, Nov 18, 2012 1:42 AM
ccjersey
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Have you got the batteries connected to provide the correct voltage for the starter you have? Only way I have ever seen one 'cut out" so to speak is if the armature was getting hot and locked up the motor. Usually a stuck brush or bad armature.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Sun, Nov 18, 2012 4:34 AM
snowshoveler
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Reply to ccjersey:
Have you got the batteries connected to provide the correct voltage for the starter you have? Only way I have ever seen one 'cut out" so to speak is if the armature was getting hot and locked up the motor. Usually a stuck brush or bad armature.
Hello...
Any chance you can post a picture of your starter and wireing.
I have a D69U and also a D4600 and a D4400. All my starters are the same Leese Neville 24 volt units.
However many have a Delco Remy starter and they are wired a bit different than mine.
I originally wired my first starter backwards and it would not roll the engine very much.
Checked and found my mistake and no problem since then.
Regards Chris
193? d4400 cat powerunit
1950 john deere M
1959 international t5 crawler
1977 powerking 1216 tractor
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Sun, Nov 18, 2012 4:43 AM
markpa13
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Reply to snowshoveler:
Hello...
Any chance you can post a picture of your starter and wireing.
I have a D69U and also a D4600 and a D4400. All my starters are the same Leese Neville 24 volt units.
However many have a Delco Remy starter and they are wired a bit different than mine.
I originally wired my first starter backwards and it would not roll the engine very much.
Checked and found my mistake and no problem since then.
Regards Chris
Thank you for the information. I'm really not sure what kind of starter it has. I attached a picture in case anyone might know. I could not locate a starter for the 318 in the D69U parts manual. I tried to clean up the brushes, it didn't heat up and seemed to crank better until the solenoid stuck. it was pretty much all rust on the inside and looked to be in pretty rough shape. I'm guessing it must be the original equipment. Probably wouldn't hurt to just replace the whole unit. You mentioned that you use Leece Neville starters on your Cats, do you have a recommendation for a specific model? Once again, thanks for all the replies, it has been very helpful!
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Sun, Nov 18, 2012 5:51 AM
n7gxz
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Reply to markpa13:
Thank you for the information. I'm really not sure what kind of starter it has. I attached a picture in case anyone might know. I could not locate a starter for the 318 in the D69U parts manual. I tried to clean up the brushes, it didn't heat up and seemed to crank better until the solenoid stuck. it was pretty much all rust on the inside and looked to be in pretty rough shape. I'm guessing it must be the original equipment. Probably wouldn't hurt to just replace the whole unit. You mentioned that you use Leece Neville starters on your Cats, do you have a recommendation for a specific model? Once again, thanks for all the replies, it has been very helpful!
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That looks like a Delco MT40. It might just need a new solenoid as the contacts inside it could be burned. Where are you located? Do you have a good rebuilder in your area? If so take the starter in and have them check it out.

Here is a link to a Delco diagnosic procedures manual that might answer your questions - www.delcoremy.com/Documents/diagnostic-manual.aspx

Kevin
D2 5U13247 Direct electric start, #44hyd, 2S blade, Hyster D2N
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Sun, Nov 18, 2012 6:02 AM
markpa13
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Reply to n7gxz:
That looks like a Delco MT40. It might just need a new solenoid as the contacts inside it could be burned. Where are you located? Do you have a good rebuilder in your area? If so take the starter in and have them check it out.

Here is a link to a Delco diagnosic procedures manual that might answer your questions - www.delcoremy.com/Documents/diagnostic-manual.aspx

Kevin
Thanks for identifying the starter. I'm located in central North Carolina. Closest cities are Greensboro and Raleigh. I'll have to do some google searching, don't really know anyone off hand that does rebuilds down here. Thanks!
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Sun, Nov 18, 2012 6:23 AM
snowshoveler
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Reply to markpa13:
Thanks for identifying the starter. I'm located in central North Carolina. Closest cities are Greensboro and Raleigh. I'll have to do some google searching, don't really know anyone off hand that does rebuilds down here. Thanks!
Hi Mark...
Your starter is not familiar to me, As they say its a delco unit I guess.
I only use the loose Navel as they are commonly called because that is what came with them here.
The solinoid on yours is mounted to the starter, mine are seperate and mounted to the engine block.
Perhaps this is is why the wireing confused me at first.
I know just enough about electricity to change a lightbulb...sometimes.
These folks here can help you no problem.
They love pictures...its like candy for us all.
Regards Chris
193? d4400 cat powerunit
1950 john deere M
1959 international t5 crawler
1977 powerking 1216 tractor
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Sun, Nov 18, 2012 6:43 AM
ccjersey
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Stay with the Delco, Most common starter there is and you have the special parts already in that one that you need to use it on a CAT with a pony motor (or in your case one that had a pony motor)

Yellow pages usually list starter and generator shops as automotive electrical. Ask at the local autoparts, try a NAPA or other place with old guys behind the counter if you can find one. You want one with a lot of catalogs on the counter and perhaps a smell of oil in the air. All signs that someone there might have ever seen the machines they are trying to sell you stuff for. Other place to ask would be heavy truck repair shops etc. If there's still one near you, someone will know about it.

Solenoids usually stick when the voltage is low and/or the starter is pulling a LOT of amps for some other reason. Or could just have been it's time. If you want to dig into it, the rear cover of the solenoid is removable,

first take off battery ground cable or open battery disconnect switch if equipped with one.
Then take off copper strap link from solenoid to starter motor terminal,
take off retaining nut and washer for lower terminal you just removed the link from.
Take off small switch wire and battery cable from their terminals,
remove retaining nut on switch terminal,
remove screws holding the rear cover on and carefully pull it off, pushing the switch terminal stud and lower(output) terminal stud through the cap because they have internal connections fastened to them.

Once you get the cover off, you can pull the plunger out, and either wire brush or reverse the contact disk as well as loosening and rotating the fixed contacts a half turn to put new surfaces in the contact area.
Tighten the retaining nut on large top terminal and push both of the others through the cap and replace the retaining nuts to hold them securely so they don't twist, Then replace the screws that hold the rear cover on.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Sun, Nov 18, 2012 7:13 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to ccjersey:
Stay with the Delco, Most common starter there is and you have the special parts already in that one that you need to use it on a CAT with a pony motor (or in your case one that had a pony motor)

Yellow pages usually list starter and generator shops as automotive electrical. Ask at the local autoparts, try a NAPA or other place with old guys behind the counter if you can find one. You want one with a lot of catalogs on the counter and perhaps a smell of oil in the air. All signs that someone there might have ever seen the machines they are trying to sell you stuff for. Other place to ask would be heavy truck repair shops etc. If there's still one near you, someone will know about it.

Solenoids usually stick when the voltage is low and/or the starter is pulling a LOT of amps for some other reason. Or could just have been it's time. If you want to dig into it, the rear cover of the solenoid is removable,

first take off battery ground cable or open battery disconnect switch if equipped with one.
Then take off copper strap link from solenoid to starter motor terminal,
take off retaining nut and washer for lower terminal you just removed the link from.
Take off small switch wire and battery cable from their terminals,
remove retaining nut on switch terminal,
remove screws holding the rear cover on and carefully pull it off, pushing the switch terminal stud and lower(output) terminal stud through the cap because they have internal connections fastened to them.

Once you get the cover off, you can pull the plunger out, and either wire brush or reverse the contact disk as well as loosening and rotating the fixed contacts a half turn to put new surfaces in the contact area.
Tighten the retaining nut on large top terminal and push both of the others through the cap and replace the retaining nuts to hold them securely so they don't twist, Then replace the screws that hold the rear cover on.
That's a Delco 40MT starter conversion. Required the hole being bored in the bell housing. If the starter has always struggled and got hot the starter pinion to ring gear fit likely came out a little to tight. Some adjustment can be made (grinding req'd) if that is the case.
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Sun, Nov 18, 2012 11:26 PM
edb
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Reply to Old Magnet:
That's a Delco 40MT starter conversion. Required the hole being bored in the bell housing. If the starter has always struggled and got hot the starter pinion to ring gear fit likely came out a little to tight. Some adjustment can be made (grinding req'd) if that is the case.
Hi Team,
from the gray Operation & Maintainence Instruction book.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Mon, Nov 19, 2012 9:39 AM
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