D6-9U Electric start; questions

The generators are 6 volt. Unless you make a series-parallel arrangement to crank on 12 volts but charge on 6 volts, you would only be able to charge a single battery at a time. Much simpler to convert the generator to drive a modern alternator. It has been done by putting a pulley on the generator shaft and belt driving the alternator and also by direct driving it with a coupling. There are some advantages to each approach.

The generators are 6 volt. Unless you make a series-parallel arrangement to crank on 12 volts but charge on 6 volts, you would only be able to charge a single battery at a time. Much simpler to convert the generator to drive a modern alternator. It has been done by putting a pulley on the generator shaft and belt driving the alternator and also by direct driving it with a coupling. There are some advantages to each approach.

I don't think much of those conversions because you are still using the vulnerable latch mechanism. Much better to bore the flywheel housing (if required) and use the solenoid engagement drive, either the late 40MT, 50 or 42MT starter.
Rotation is always checked by view from the drive end (in this case starter drive). Clockwise in this case so that the flywheel rotates in a counter clockwise direction when viewed from the seat.

[quote="Old Magnet"]I don't think much of those conversions because you are still using the vulnerable latch mechanism. Much better to bore the flywheel housing (if required) and use the solenoid engagement drive, either the late 40MT, 50 or 42MT starter.
Rotation is always checked by view from the drive end (in this case starter drive). Clockwise in this case so that the flywheel rotates in a counter clockwise direction when viewed from the seat.[/quote]

Thanks Old Magnet, I appreciate and respect your opinion.
Neither of the machines has an existing opening for a starter on the flywheel housing.
One has a certified rops canopy, with one of the front supports welded to the frame right near where one would bore the hole for a starter. Not impossible but definitely tricky to work around.
That one is a 1953, and has the D318 and a dry clutch.
The other machine has the 6 cyl. diesel from the 40's, but the rest of the unit is 1950's, hydraulic/hard nose, dry clutch.
No ROPS excuse, it is wide open in the starter area.

Question: with that older diesel, would there be any reason why one could not proceed with a conventional starter through the flywheel housing?
One thing I have noticed is that the intake manifold seems closer to where a starter would go, compared to the D318. Have not measured it yet.

Thanks for the clarification on rotation. Going to the truck wreckers tomorrow for a starter, now I know what to look for.
Regards,
Toby

Grab one while at the wrecking yard!
If you are able to get a 24V starter out of a machine, you maybe able to get a 24V alternator also.

No reason to go with a series/parallel arrangement. At least I would not. The switches have to be rare eggs now a days. they were not popular for very long.

Same with 24 volt. Unless it is cheaper......., a lot cheaper, go with 12 volt. That will be the majority of what you find at the scrap yard anyway.

The 24 volt and series/parallel setups are generally 50 or more years old now.

Any pic's of the electric start using the pony clutch shaft/pinion drive set up?

Got these pictures off the net, not very good pics but you get the general idea. Only works on the D6 due to the space required.