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D6 9U Dry clutch

D6 9U Dry clutch

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WayneB
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My dozer has been sitting for well over half a year since I last operated it. She's a 1951 with only 2750 hours. When I got her from a neighbor farmer, she'd been sitting for a real long time. I operated her for about 3 hours and shut her down till today. She had the engine and filters serviced. Working backward now.

Pulled my Dozer off today, and bled out the fuel system. I had installed a primary fuel filter mount, new filters, new fuel gage. When I ran it before this; the clutch seemed fine. It holds well now enough to pull it off, but now stalls when you tap brakes. Didn't hear the govenor cut in right when I tapped the brakes. I put the blade against a tree and I could for sure tell it is slipping. No prolonged running with a slipping clutch

I have all the books. The best book is a thin operator and MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS. It tells me how to adjust it, and how to drain and wash.

So now the questions.

1. Will lack of SNAP in the adjustment be enough to make the dry clutch sllp?
2. Can I pressure wash the clutch area? The book suggest using a cleaning solvent solution. Will pressure washing hurt?

Note: I have yet to clean up the tranny area. I had to order new boots for the shifter, so no cleaning till those installed.

My clutch brake works partially. Ever so often I have to idle her down to get it in gear. Normally, slides in rev'd up. Reverser works fine.
3. I am definitly needing to wash the exterior tranny area. Was holding off to dump the tranny fluid. So really only two questions, about pressure washing and cause of clutch slipping ?

Please advise.

Wayne
S Central VA
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Mon, Nov 7, 2011 7:43 AM
Old Magnet
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If the clutch is not pulling over center with a distinct snap, it is not working, will not hold, and if not corrected will lead to damage.

Can be a number of reasons....adjustment required, worn linkage or worn out clutch plates and discs.

Not a good idea to dowse everything in there with water, even solvent should be directed away from the clutch.

Not normally a problem on external wash but still run the risk of getting water past old seals, boots, etc., best to tape off or bag where you can.

I find it hard to believe a unit that old only has 2750 hrs on it. Are you sure the meter is working? Their sort of famous for not.
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Mon, Nov 7, 2011 8:44 AM
WayneB
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Reply to Old Magnet:
If the clutch is not pulling over center with a distinct snap, it is not working, will not hold, and if not corrected will lead to damage.

Can be a number of reasons....adjustment required, worn linkage or worn out clutch plates and discs.

Not a good idea to dowse everything in there with water, even solvent should be directed away from the clutch.

Not normally a problem on external wash but still run the risk of getting water past old seals, boots, etc., best to tape off or bag where you can.

I find it hard to believe a unit that old only has 2750 hrs on it. Are you sure the meter is working? Their sort of famous for not.
The meter is working. I bought it with 2706 hours and it has 2709 on it now. I just said 2750 for basic reference. It is a former Navy Dozer.SN: 11919. The old farmer I bought it from is I think 87, he said. He bought the dozer back when he started farming to clear his acreage which is 500-1000 acres I speculate. He too raises Angus. Just not registered. Four years ago when I first drove from my house to South Hill VA I saw it, and it never moved. Now this is country here. There is only a few houses between he and I and no stores. One day, I stopped, asked about it and bought. Said he couldn't operate it anymore. Came back and paid him cash. He had lubed it and we pulled it off. I operated it in his pasture, we loaded it and left it running on the trailer. I offloaded it (Live @ 8 mile from there) and used it less than 3 hrs and shut it down. Drained all the fuel and serviced and made the repairs noted in first post.

My blade is pristine on the left edge, there is noticeable wear on the right edge, and the center cutting edge OK. Everything works. It has a MIL-SPEC (roll-over protection) cover over the seat. It still has the NAVY shipping badges. The old generator wires were cut. Belt is GC and gages work. I had her up to operating temp. Cable is good, and that system works perfect. He taught me how to operate the blade controls and adjust the blade. Track is GC with OK adjustments.

The pony had a cracked fuel tank, the carb was pitted and rotted thru, and the Mag was suspect. Bought a fuel tank/bowl filter from Hector, had the carb and mageto rebuilt in that Maine shop. Despite pulling on it, and it turns over, yet to get the pony to start. Drained the fuel, dump the carb and stopped messing with it. I put about 10 hours piddling with that pony, and it was sucking up my precious time. I am going to need a starter for the pony. I worked up a sweat several times in this VA heat pulling on that thing.

I shopped and bought manuals, two sets of overy filter, the shifter boot and some CAT yellow paint. As I tear apart, I clean and spot paint. Working my way towards a paint job someday.
Getting this thing RIGHT is time consuming, and I don't have a lot of time to invest, with so many bigger priorities. Progress will be slow, she ain't going anywhere.




Wayne
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Mon, Nov 7, 2011 8:56 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to WayneB:
The meter is working. I bought it with 2706 hours and it has 2709 on it now. I just said 2750 for basic reference. It is a former Navy Dozer.SN: 11919. The old farmer I bought it from is I think 87, he said. He bought the dozer back when he started farming to clear his acreage which is 500-1000 acres I speculate. He too raises Angus. Just not registered. Four years ago when I first drove from my house to South Hill VA I saw it, and it never moved. Now this is country here. There is only a few houses between he and I and no stores. One day, I stopped, asked about it and bought. Said he couldn't operate it anymore. Came back and paid him cash. He had lubed it and we pulled it off. I operated it in his pasture, we loaded it and left it running on the trailer. I offloaded it (Live @ 8 mile from there) and used it less than 3 hrs and shut it down. Drained all the fuel and serviced and made the repairs noted in first post.

My blade is pristine on the left edge, there is noticeable wear on the right edge, and the center cutting edge OK. Everything works. It has a MIL-SPEC (roll-over protection) cover over the seat. It still has the NAVY shipping badges. The old generator wires were cut. Belt is GC and gages work. I had her up to operating temp. Cable is good, and that system works perfect. He taught me how to operate the blade controls and adjust the blade. Track is GC with OK adjustments.

The pony had a cracked fuel tank, the carb was pitted and rotted thru, and the Mag was suspect. Bought a fuel tank/bowl filter from Hector, had the carb and mageto rebuilt in that Maine shop. Despite pulling on it, and it turns over, yet to get the pony to start. Drained the fuel, dump the carb and stopped messing with it. I put about 10 hours piddling with that pony, and it was sucking up my precious time. I am going to need a starter for the pony. I worked up a sweat several times in this VA heat pulling on that thing.

I shopped and bought manuals, two sets of overy filter, the shifter boot and some CAT yellow paint. As I tear apart, I clean and spot paint. Working my way towards a paint job someday.
Getting this thing RIGHT is time consuming, and I don't have a lot of time to invest, with so many bigger priorities. Progress will be slow, she ain't going anywhere.




Wayne
Thanks for "the rest of the story"......that certainly is an unusual find.
Shouldn't be that difficult to get the pony going, is there anyone near you that would be familiar with the D6 or even the D2/D4's, they are not that much different. Starter motor is unique though.
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Mon, Nov 7, 2011 10:26 PM
WayneB
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Thanks for "the rest of the story"......that certainly is an unusual find.
Shouldn't be that difficult to get the pony going, is there anyone near you that would be familiar with the D6 or even the D2/D4's, they are not that much different. Starter motor is unique though.
My next plan for her is to drive her down to the arc welder and install the mounts for the root rake. Then I will drive her to my wash area and pressure wash the exterior tranny area. While she's clean otherwise, the transmission area is not. Until I get that pony running I have to leave it running while I weld and clean it.

Really do appreciate the D6 Dozer counsel.

Wayne
I have only lived here for four years, and my initial assessment is there are few CAT dozer smart guys in the local area. Checked at the local CAT dealer in South Hill and they had no clue on it other than diesel engine. The farmer here get taxed on farm equipment so they don't keep old stuff. I need a D6 pony starter.
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Tue, Nov 8, 2011 6:03 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to WayneB:
My next plan for her is to drive her down to the arc welder and install the mounts for the root rake. Then I will drive her to my wash area and pressure wash the exterior tranny area. While she's clean otherwise, the transmission area is not. Until I get that pony running I have to leave it running while I weld and clean it.

Really do appreciate the D6 Dozer counsel.

Wayne
I have only lived here for four years, and my initial assessment is there are few CAT dozer smart guys in the local area. Checked at the local CAT dealer in South Hill and they had no clue on it other than diesel engine. The farmer here get taxed on farm equipment so they don't keep old stuff. I need a D6 pony starter.
Keep in mind that prolonged idling can lead to slobbering or wet stacking problems when cylinders glaze and oil gets past the rings. Usually will recover with some hard work but you should be aware of the issue.
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Tue, Nov 8, 2011 9:05 AM
9User
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Keep in mind that prolonged idling can lead to slobbering or wet stacking problems when cylinders glaze and oil gets past the rings. Usually will recover with some hard work but you should be aware of the issue.
You should be able to adjust the clutch easily. I take the entire hinged inspection plate off ( 4x 9/16 bolts )as it gives me more room under the air cleaner, I use a 3/4 deep well,wobble adapter and 6in ext. all elec taped together to adj mine. (tape keeps me from losing the socketin bottom of bell housing) I loosen the collar and turn the assembley by hand or gentle prying ( counter clockwise I THINK CANT, REMEMBERBUT IT WILL BE EVIDENT IN A TURN OR SO)til my clutch snaps.(should require I'm guessing 10 to 15 lbs pressure, kinda stiff) While tou are in there there should be 3 grease fittings, 2 on the snap near center on two of the three sides of the cludch and one on the outside of the flywheel just rotate til you find it. The last if I remember correctly greases the throw out bearing and i cannot remember how often it needs service but if the clutch needs adjusting every few hrs that bearing may not be long for the world. When this bearing goes it is just like engaging the clutch and the machine will take off! so when you are off the cat do not simply dis engage the clutch , take it out of gear as this is safer and will extend the life of said bearing. ALL FROM EXPERIENCES lucky to be here now.
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Sat, Feb 4, 2012 11:57 AM
chriscokid
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Reply to 9User:
You should be able to adjust the clutch easily. I take the entire hinged inspection plate off ( 4x 9/16 bolts )as it gives me more room under the air cleaner, I use a 3/4 deep well,wobble adapter and 6in ext. all elec taped together to adj mine. (tape keeps me from losing the socketin bottom of bell housing) I loosen the collar and turn the assembley by hand or gentle prying ( counter clockwise I THINK CANT, REMEMBERBUT IT WILL BE EVIDENT IN A TURN OR SO)til my clutch snaps.(should require I'm guessing 10 to 15 lbs pressure, kinda stiff) While tou are in there there should be 3 grease fittings, 2 on the snap near center on two of the three sides of the cludch and one on the outside of the flywheel just rotate til you find it. The last if I remember correctly greases the throw out bearing and i cannot remember how often it needs service but if the clutch needs adjusting every few hrs that bearing may not be long for the world. When this bearing goes it is just like engaging the clutch and the machine will take off! so when you are off the cat do not simply dis engage the clutch , take it out of gear as this is safer and will extend the life of said bearing. ALL FROM EXPERIENCES lucky to be here now.
if you need any help the slage boys from south boston might could help
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Sat, Feb 4, 2012 7:37 PM
WayneB
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Reply to chriscokid:
if you need any help the slage boys from south boston might could help
Looks close on the map.
No, the big project is converting this D6 to 12V electric start. Clutch will not be an issue.

Wayne
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Thu, Feb 16, 2012 11:13 PM
Mike Meyer
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Reply to WayneB:
Looks close on the map.
No, the big project is converting this D6 to 12V electric start. Clutch will not be an issue.

Wayne
If you have had both the pilot motor carby and magneto reconditioned, and have a new gas tank / fuel line, and have some compression on both cylinders, then that pilot motor should start. If I was you, before I spent big money fitting a electric starter I'd find a good old retired cat Mechanic in my area and pay him $100 to double check that pilot motor is set up right. The fact you haven't even got a pop, or a phart out of it yet might suggest an electrical fault, like the ignition switch, sparkplug wires, or magneto timing. They are a very simple little gas motor that runs happy as a clam on about 25 pounds compression, and will always start on the 1st, 2nd, or 3rd. pull once you learn it's secret trick, because every pilot motor is different in how it likes to be started, some like choke, some don't, some like full throttle, some don't.

You are obviously no dummy, and we all know exactly what you are going through, you have done the hard yards on that pilot motor, step back now and get a old Cat expert to look at it for an hour and I'd be surprised if it is not purring. I spoke to one of the best Bush Cat Mechanics in Oz yesterday, he had just bought a old Cat grader that was heading to the scrap yard from the local Cat Dealers yard, it had been traded on a new machine and when it arrived at the Cat Dealers they couldn't get the pilot motor started to unload the old girl off the trailer, even though it had run when they loaded the grader onto the trailer the day before, so they told the truck driver to take it to the scrap yard. Somehow my buddy hears about the grader and phones the Dealer paying them scrap steel price for it (about $120 a ton here in Australia right now), because he was told it was a running machine when they traded it. "Well Mike" he said yesterday, "it only took me a hour and I had that pilot motor running sweet, got the big motor fired up easy, that needs a head gasket, but other than that I've got myself a dirt cheap new grader!" True story.
Good luck
Mike
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Fri, Feb 17, 2012 4:07 AM
daron
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Reply to Mike Meyer:
If you have had both the pilot motor carby and magneto reconditioned, and have a new gas tank / fuel line, and have some compression on both cylinders, then that pilot motor should start. If I was you, before I spent big money fitting a electric starter I'd find a good old retired cat Mechanic in my area and pay him $100 to double check that pilot motor is set up right. The fact you haven't even got a pop, or a phart out of it yet might suggest an electrical fault, like the ignition switch, sparkplug wires, or magneto timing. They are a very simple little gas motor that runs happy as a clam on about 25 pounds compression, and will always start on the 1st, 2nd, or 3rd. pull once you learn it's secret trick, because every pilot motor is different in how it likes to be started, some like choke, some don't, some like full throttle, some don't.

You are obviously no dummy, and we all know exactly what you are going through, you have done the hard yards on that pilot motor, step back now and get a old Cat expert to look at it for an hour and I'd be surprised if it is not purring. I spoke to one of the best Bush Cat Mechanics in Oz yesterday, he had just bought a old Cat grader that was heading to the scrap yard from the local Cat Dealers yard, it had been traded on a new machine and when it arrived at the Cat Dealers they couldn't get the pilot motor started to unload the old girl off the trailer, even though it had run when they loaded the grader onto the trailer the day before, so they told the truck driver to take it to the scrap yard. Somehow my buddy hears about the grader and phones the Dealer paying them scrap steel price for it (about $120 a ton here in Australia right now), because he was told it was a running machine when they traded it. "Well Mike" he said yesterday, "it only took me a hour and I had that pilot motor running sweet, got the big motor fired up easy, that needs a head gasket, but other than that I've got myself a dirt cheap new grader!" True story.
Good luck
Mike
Is everybody seeing the 'shopping links' present in some threads?

What the hell are these?

Maybe they're a virus or something on my computer only but if not and the BBS is doing it I would like it to cease!

This BBS seems to have too many 'added processes' now (slows its response time!).

Sorry to have gone off topic but it is part of the replies.

Thanks, Daron
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Fri, Feb 17, 2012 9:32 AM
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