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D6 8U (1947 vintage) Cam Gear Installation

D6 8U (1947 vintage) Cam Gear Installation

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lnhru
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I am overhauling a D318 from an old D6 8U and I am in the process of installing a new cam gear (5B3099) with the cam still in place in the block. I cannot find the specialty tool locally, needed for the installation. I've considered removing the cam and having a machine shop press on the gear. Does anyone have a suggestion for an easier installation. The old gear (badly scored) was fairly easy to pull but the new gear appears to be an extremely tight fit. While the part numbers are the same the new gear appears to be a much tighter fit to the cam. (I've also replaced the crank gear). Any help would be appreciated. Does anyone know the part numbers for the locker and nut on the front end of the cam retaining the gear?

Lloyd
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Mon, Aug 5, 2013 10:43 PM
Old Magnet
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The lock is a #3B1634
The nut is listed as #L-702

www.florintractor.com lists having six 4B8268 studs but no 4B8267 nuts as part of the installation tools.

Guess you would have to have one made.
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Mon, Aug 5, 2013 11:09 PM
dpendzic
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Reply to Old Magnet:
The lock is a #3B1634
The nut is listed as #L-702

www.florintractor.com lists having six 4B8268 studs but no 4B8267 nuts as part of the installation tools.

Guess you would have to have one made.
also consider heating the gear to increase the inner bore diameter.
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Mon, Aug 5, 2013 11:15 PM
ccjersey
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Where are you in the overhaul process? Might be simplest to just pull the camshaft and press the gear on.

If there are good reasons to avoid this, I would fabricate a pusher and warm the gear up in oil before quickly pushing it on. A hollow ram "porta power" cylinder would really be the ticket for that application. The serviceman's reference book cautions against driving the gear on the cam because of the danger of dislodging the welsh plug in the opposite end of the block and causing an oil leak there.

I recently ran into this problem on a DT466 IH engine, but that camshaft has no provision for a fixture to install the gear. Ended up heating the gear and driving it on, but didn't get it quite all the way home😞 Engine is running fine, but it was a choice of just replacing the backing plate which was corroded behind the water pump or pulling the camshaft and pressing the gear on properly).

Might be able to use a double length (coupling) nut ground or turned round small enough for the camshaft gear to slide over it to attach a piece of threaded rod to the camshaft and use that to push it on.

McMaster Carr catalog link. They will also sell threaded rod and nuts etc to complete the fixture.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-coupling-nuts/=nxp25u

The CAT tooling has a large diameter nut that is used to actually push the gear. Using a coupling nut, and threaded rod, the smaller diameter threaded rod may not be large enough to push the gear on without galling the threads, so if you cannot use a porta power ram, I would start out with grade 8 threaded rod and a second coupling nut to screw down on it, well lubricated with EP gear lube, and with the gear warmed up to 400F or so in oil, you may get it on as a "one time" use.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Tue, Aug 6, 2013 2:48 AM
old-iron-habit
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Reply to ccjersey:
Where are you in the overhaul process? Might be simplest to just pull the camshaft and press the gear on.

If there are good reasons to avoid this, I would fabricate a pusher and warm the gear up in oil before quickly pushing it on. A hollow ram "porta power" cylinder would really be the ticket for that application. The serviceman's reference book cautions against driving the gear on the cam because of the danger of dislodging the welsh plug in the opposite end of the block and causing an oil leak there.

I recently ran into this problem on a DT466 IH engine, but that camshaft has no provision for a fixture to install the gear. Ended up heating the gear and driving it on, but didn't get it quite all the way home😞 Engine is running fine, but it was a choice of just replacing the backing plate which was corroded behind the water pump or pulling the camshaft and pressing the gear on properly).

Might be able to use a double length (coupling) nut ground or turned round small enough for the camshaft gear to slide over it to attach a piece of threaded rod to the camshaft and use that to push it on.

McMaster Carr catalog link. They will also sell threaded rod and nuts etc to complete the fixture.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-coupling-nuts/=nxp25u

The CAT tooling has a large diameter nut that is used to actually push the gear. Using a coupling nut, and threaded rod, the smaller diameter threaded rod may not be large enough to push the gear on without galling the threads, so if you cannot use a porta power ram, I would start out with grade 8 threaded rod and a second coupling nut to screw down on it, well lubricated with EP gear lube, and with the gear warmed up to 400F or so in oil, you may get it on as a "one time" use.
Anything you can do to cool the cam gear end will also help. Wondering out loud if there is a way to hold dry ice or some form of cooling against the gear end to cool it as much as possible. A few degrees cooler, another thousandth of clearance is huge. Don't get burnt on the dry ice. Good luck and let us know how you make out.
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Tue, Aug 6, 2013 2:58 AM
lnhru
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Reply to old-iron-habit:
Anything you can do to cool the cam gear end will also help. Wondering out loud if there is a way to hold dry ice or some form of cooling against the gear end to cool it as much as possible. A few degrees cooler, another thousandth of clearance is huge. Don't get burnt on the dry ice. Good luck and let us know how you make out.
Thanks for all of the suggestions. I am not a heavy equipment mechanic, but rather a retired teacher with a lot of engine building (Chev and Dodge small block, not diesel) experience. I see that I have several alternatives. I live near Edmonton, Alberta and have not been able to borrow or purchase the installation tool. I have the engine manual and I am aware of the special tool. Will call Florin Tractor to check the availability of the installation tool. Motor is all closed up except for the gear train cover and the pan bolts are in but not torqued down. If I decide to remove the cam to install the gear, the cam goes in the freezer overnight and the gear will be heated in oil to gain clearance. If I can get the needed tool I will only heat the gear prior to installation.

Thank you,
Lloyd
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Tue, Aug 6, 2013 8:05 AM
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