D6 44A main engine clutch linkage & steering clutch pull force?

Your grinding probleme is your brake cluch need a adjustement and your stering cluch booster should missing some oil inside and he should be under the fuel tank and you should have 3 3/4" free movement on top stering cluch lever and 3 1/2 to 4 1/2" on pedal brake

Thanks gemdozer

Is the brake clutch you are mentioning inside the transmission or the one just at the main clutch output? The one out in the open on the driveshaft looks to be working correctly and isn't the source of the grinding. The grinding is from something actuated by a linkage back onto the transmission.

Do you know what type of oil goes in the steering clutch booster? Is this machine like our D4D SA where everything uses the same oil as the engine (except the hydraulics I suppose)? This is helpful to know there is a steering clutch booster, but I guess I need to buy a service manual for this machine and get to know it a little better.

Thanks again,

Joe

If the grinding is there with the transmission in neutral too it look like in the cluch housing maybe the oil pump gear or idler gear loosen and the stering cluch booster should use 20 oil and capacité should be 6qt.

The other linkage operates a transmission lock which should keep the shifters locked until the clutch lever is moved forward to the point of disengaging the clutch.

I doubt it would be causing a grinding noise since it only lifts some locking pawls on the shifter rails. The source of the noise is most likely the clutch release bearing yoke etc inside the clutch, but I suppose you could be getting some noise/vibration referred through the transmission input shaft.

I'm not really familiar with the D6B transmission, but going on the assumption it is similar/identical to the D6 9U transmission, I don't think there is anything that the locking pawl will hit if it moves too far, but don't have a parts book to check. I suppose I could be totally wrong and there is some other synchronizer or shifter in there that was not used on the U series.

If you want to adjust a transmission interlock, it needs to keep the transmission shifter locked as you push the clutch lever forward until the clutch actually pops out. If you have lots of slack, it can release the locking pawls before the clutch actually disengages and the transmission will be able to pop out of gear. I was discouraged about our 9U popping out of first gear under load and assumed a transmission overhaul was in the cards. Folks on here told me to adjust the transmission lock and when I did, it took care of the problem. To check. with the engine stopped is safest, put the transmission in 1st gear, pull the clutch into engagement and then pull on the shifter to try to put it in neutral. It should not move. Keep pulling on it and push the clutch lever forward. The lock should hold until the clutch disengages and then the clutch brake should drag against the drum on the clutch output/transmission input shaft as you push the lever on forward.

Like I said, I think it's likely something to do with the clutch release bearing and yoke, though it may be only that it chatters the loudest in the transmission area for some reason.