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D5 98J Heating up today

D5 98J Heating up today

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Chappy
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Can't figure out what's wrong with him. Has sat for awhile and I had to make a rubber/plastic radiator cap to replace the rusted one.
Thermostat was checked and is open, but the radiator was real dirty inside. Seems to be no water movement. Could it be the water pump?

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Chappy
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Fri, Sep 13, 2013 7:22 AM
ccjersey
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It would be unusual, but well worth checking. Of course if your cap isn't holding the correct pressure, it could easily boil over at a temperature lower than normal.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Fri, Sep 13, 2013 8:17 AM
Chappy
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Reply to ccjersey:
It would be unusual, but well worth checking. Of course if your cap isn't holding the correct pressure, it could easily boil over at a temperature lower than normal.
All that is left is the cap, the stud that used to be in the radiator throat is rusted out. Is there and way if inserting another one?

Thanks,

Chappy
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Fri, Sep 13, 2013 4:33 PM
ccjersey
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Drill out the old one and put in another maybe need a Heli coil? The cross bar support would have to be there though.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Fri, Sep 13, 2013 5:19 PM
Chappy
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Reply to ccjersey:
Drill out the old one and put in another maybe need a Heli coil? The cross bar support would have to be there though.
CC

There is nothing left in the radiator throat, stud and cross bar have disappeared into rust. I was thinking of welding another one in the throat to see if that would work.

Thanks,

Chappy
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Sun, Sep 15, 2013 6:55 AM
ccjersey
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Yes, welding or brazing a cross bar in that is long enough that it really cannot pull out of the opening should be plenty strong enough. If you had to , you probably could take the top tank off the radiator and do the repair. While the tank is off, it is pretty easy to really help the performance of the core by flushing out the flues while poking a "rod" down from the top.

Link to a thread where I did this on a D6 9U a while back. Have also done a 12E grader radiator. Both times it fixed the problem completely even though we were not able to clear all the flues, probably got over 3/4 of them if not more. All in all, pretty easy to do compared to removing the radiator. When we took the top tank off the grader, there was a double handful of rust flakes laying on the top of the core. Simplly scraping that off probably helped immensly, but a lot of the flues were plugged. The 9U wasn't nearly as bad. I had run some muriatic acid through it a few years ago, but couldn't get it to quit overheating while pulling a disk around. I think it might help the process of cleaning the flues if you ran some radiator flush through it before you take the tank off. Just to soften up some of the crud ahead of time.

http://www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.php?17111-D6-9U-running-HOT-and-radiator-cleaning&highlight=Radiator
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Sun, Sep 15, 2013 8:07 AM
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