D4D Track tensioner spring replacement

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joebrad

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Hello all,
I am new to the ACMOC, joining in October. I have a D4D s/n 83J1438 which should be a 1971 tractor if my research is right. I have had this tractor for 15 years and now in need of some advice. Both track tensioner springs are broken and now I have one of the hydraulic adjustment cylinders with a blown seal. Splitting the tracks seems to be in my future if I want to get some more work done on the farm. What is the best way to tackle the job. I was an offshore crane mechanic for many years and have all tools and shop space that I think will be needed except for any type of hydraulic presses. I read about the spring compression and may opt to take them to a heavy equipment shop to compress the new springs after I get them out.
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Thanks,

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Sat, Jan 25, 2014 6:26 AM

bob

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[quote="joebrad"]Hello all,
I am new to the ACMOC, joining in October. I have a D4D s/n 83J1438 which should be a 1971 tractor if my research is right. I have had this tractor for 15 years and now in need of some advice. Both track tensioner springs are broken and now I have one of the hydraulic adjustment cylinders with a blown seal. Splitting the tracks seems to be in my future if I want to get some more work done on the farm. What is the best way to tackle the job. I was an offshore crane mechanic for many years and have all tools and shop space that I think will be needed except for any type of hydraulic presses. I read about the spring compression and may opt to take them to a heavy equipment shop to compress the new springs after I get them out.

Thanks,[/quote]

Here is what I would do. Drop the blade and C frame off, then get into a place you can work.
Take the track frame guards off and clean up the spring center bolt, lube the thread and loosen the big nut.
Then put a block of wood in the track, back up and crush the spring, tighten the nut on the center bolt.
Tighten nut until the spring is compressed and the pilot is back from the anchors.
Then split the tracks, push the idlers forward and lift the adjuster and spring assem's out.
Take the assem's to a dealer or some qualified shop to change the springs
Handle these assems like you would a couple of 5 gal pails of nitro glycerin
Later Bob.

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Sat, Jan 25, 2014 7:15 AM

ccjersey

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If your springs are broken, then you can torch some of the remaining coils without loosing anything, but I guess you have a center spring to contend with as well? If your spring bolt will not tighten up like bob describes, you could weld bars between the end plates to restrain the spring so that it can be removed.

D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄

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Sat, Jan 25, 2014 7:32 AM

edb

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Reply to bob:

[quote="joebrad"]Hello all,
I am new to the ACMOC, joining in October. I have a D4D s/n 83J1438 which should be a 1971 tractor if my research is right. I have had this tractor for 15 years and now in need of some advice. Both track tensioner springs are broken and now I have one of the hydraulic adjustment cylinders with a blown seal. Splitting the tracks seems to be in my future if I want to get some more work done on the farm. What is the best way to tackle the job. I was an offshore crane mechanic for many years and have all tools and shop space that I think will be needed except for any type of hydraulic presses. I read about the spring compression and may opt to take them to a heavy equipment shop to compress the new springs after I get them out.

Thanks,[/quote]

Here is what I would do. Drop the blade and C frame off, then get into a place you can work.
Take the track frame guards off and clean up the spring center bolt, lube the thread and loosen the big nut.
Then put a block of wood in the track, back up and crush the spring, tighten the nut on the center bolt.
Tighten nut until the spring is compressed and the pilot is back from the anchors.
Then split the tracks, push the idlers forward and lift the adjuster and spring assem's out.
Take the assem's to a dealer or some qualified shop to change the springs
Handle these assems like you would a couple of 5 gal pails of nitro glycerin
Later Bob.

Hi Joe,
welcome to the BB.
Do as Bob said above to crush the springs, BUT, I would suggest to remove the centre bolt nut and fit spacer washers to keep the nut on good unworn or rusted bolt threads.
Have encountered nuts stripping back off the worn/rusted bolt threads and discharging the spring etc--luckily the spring was still captive in the machine.
At The Dealer we used to cut a few spring coils with the oxy set to ease the tension--they go off with a BANG. You could try grinding thru some coils with a disc grinder.
Be careful as Bob said.
When refitting the springs to the machine do the reverse to unload the spring back onto the stops.
While the spring is crushed back off the nut to leave the centre bolt loose so the nut is at the end of the bolt and is held captive by the lock plate and bolt. The spring must work between the stops and not on the bolt.
The spring assem must be assembled to be shorter than the stop distance--who ever assembles it for you will need to do this--usually about 0.5" less than the distance between the front and rear stops.
You can measure this before removing the front stops to get the spring assem out.

Cheers,
Eddie B.

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Sat, Jan 25, 2014 7:42 AM

dpendzic

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Reply to ccjersey:

If your springs are broken, then you can torch some of the remaining coils without loosing anything, but I guess you have a center spring to contend with as well? If your spring bolt will not tighten up like bob describes, you could weld bars between the end plates to restrain the spring so that it can be removed.

I have always obtained a second spring bolt nut and added that for extra assurance that it didn't blow apart when working on it--had one do that as i was placing it back in the track frame

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Sat, Jan 25, 2014 7:44 AM

Old Magnet

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Reply to dpendzic:

I have always obtained a second spring bolt nut and added that for extra assurance that it didn't blow apart when working on it--had one do that as i was placing it back in the track frame

83J's use a single recoil spring Part #5K2754=2C4445=7H8118
Installed length is 18.75"
Assembled length for installation is 18.25"
Force-spring assembled, approx. seven ton.

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Sat, Jan 25, 2014 8:18 AM

tctractors

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Reply to Old Magnet:

83J's use a single recoil spring Part #5K2754=2C4445=7H8118
Installed length is 18.75"
Assembled length for installation is 18.25"
Force-spring assembled, approx. seven ton.

I tackle recoils slightly different as I dont muck about plus its the safest and fastest way, with the track still in place and the front idler wedged with timber or WHY down the back side of it down through the frame, I then undo the large nut on the pilot rod (the nut close to the sprocket) this might be capped off with a bolt and washer or a thin Jamb Nut, anyhow with the big nut removed I clean up the threads some and grease things, then add a thickish washer 1/4 to 3/8" thick onto the rod followed by the nut doing the nut up with the tension of the sping being compressed, its not hard to take up some spring load, you only have to take up enough to slacken the front guide stops. then undo the grease cylinder and push back the cylinder into the cannon, undo the 4 bolts on the 2 guides there is dowls fitted also that can make things troublesome but are important, then bar out the spring/recoil in 1 lump, for your safety re-fit any Jamb nut or bolt/washer to the pilot rod as the spring loading might be around the 8 to 9 ton area, dont bother cutting coils unless you have the burning gear I never bother doing this, then its time to find a press with at least 8" travel, I do my pressing on site with CAT tooling.
tctractors

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Sat, Jan 25, 2014 2:25 PM

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