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D4D s/n 49J 0498

D4D s/n 49J 0498

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moooz
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hi all, first post here.

Been reading all I can about dozers after buying this machine, my first dozer about 2 months ago. Skimmed through all posts on HEF-Dozer's and up to page 209 here looking for useful information. Going to be used for farm work and in particular pushing African Boxthorn.

I've found from 'Iron Record' and 'ritchiewiki' that it is a 1969/70 Australian build/assembled unit but I'm unable to establish whether the 330 or 3304 motor is installed and also what hp rating.

A couple of observations; I changed out the temp guage because the original hardly got into the green zone and replaced with an electric version. After a couple of hours work pushing scrub, temp shows only 60C/140F. Seems too cool as I've read thermostat should open some where north of 77C/170F. Though haven't checked if there actually is a thermostat.

When I open the hydraulic filler cap (engine off & blade/rippers set down), air followed by oil gushes out. Is this normal, is system pressurised or is there a breather not working?

Also I read on here where it was suggested to a member with an earlier 4D, an upgrade to pinion p/n 7k4770 and bull gear p/n 7K4771. Would this advice also be appropriate for me should the need arise? Have heard from a neighbour who runs several cats that the earlier D4D's were weak in the back end-this might have been the fix?

thanks
Leo
Leo
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Mon, Jul 14, 2014 11:37 AM
Old Magnet
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Hi and welcome,
My info indicates it is a 1969 model with D330c engine (4-3/4" bore) @ 65Hp equivalent to a US 82J1 to 800

The 3304 (78P) engine didn't come in until 1973 at which point engines and tractors had different s/n's.

The hydraulic system is supposed to be sealed and makes use of the air cushion to control hydraulic shock.

Yes, the back end had problems leading to:
New final drive gears and pinion
Stronger bevel gear case mounting flanges
Improved final drive inside cover plate

Check for thermostat and its operation first.
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Mon, Jul 14, 2014 12:58 PM
mrsmackpaul
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Hi and welcome,
My info indicates it is a 1969 model with D330c engine (4-3/4" bore) @ 65Hp equivalent to a US 82J1 to 800

The 3304 (78P) engine didn't come in until 1973 at which point engines and tractors had different s/n's.

The hydraulic system is supposed to be sealed and makes use of the air cushion to control hydraulic shock.

Yes, the back end had problems leading to:
New final drive gears and pinion
Stronger bevel gear case mounting flanges
Improved final drive inside cover plate

Check for thermostat and its operation first.
Leo welcome mate was down in the downs a couple of weeks ago at the chapter meeting never seen so many toys all in the one spot if all the meetings are like that its worth going along for a look

mate if its running at 65C I wouldnt be to concerned if it was mine as for the rest of it I cant help you much

Paul
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Mon, Jul 14, 2014 3:02 PM
moooz
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Reply to mrsmackpaul:
Leo welcome mate was down in the downs a couple of weeks ago at the chapter meeting never seen so many toys all in the one spot if all the meetings are like that its worth going along for a look

mate if its running at 65C I wouldnt be to concerned if it was mine as for the rest of it I cant help you much

Paul
thanks for the welcome.

After having to top up radiator with 3-4l of water prior to last use, found signs of water in the oil. Didn't notice any overheating and no visible external leaks.

Engine seems unaffected power wise. So my question, would it be safe to restart so that I can drive on/off a tilt tray?

What are the usual suspects in regards this problem with the D330?

I have the service manual D4D Crawler SN 49J & up but the only engine it refers to is the 3304. Is the 330 much different?...as the plan is to remove the head for inspection.

Appreciate any help.
Leo
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Thu, Aug 28, 2014 10:01 AM
mrsmackpaul
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Reply to moooz:
thanks for the welcome.

After having to top up radiator with 3-4l of water prior to last use, found signs of water in the oil. Didn't notice any overheating and no visible external leaks.

Engine seems unaffected power wise. So my question, would it be safe to restart so that I can drive on/off a tilt tray?

What are the usual suspects in regards this problem with the D330?

I have the service manual D4D Crawler SN 49J & up but the only engine it refers to is the 3304. Is the 330 much different?...as the plan is to remove the head for inspection.

Appreciate any help.
did the oil go in after sitting for a long time or when you have had it running ?

I reckon it would be ok start like it is just wind it over with throttle shut in case there is water in the cylinders less chance hydraulicing the motor with the fuel shut off

Paul
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Thu, Aug 28, 2014 4:08 PM
sandcreek
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Reply to mrsmackpaul:
did the oil go in after sitting for a long time or when you have had it running ?

I reckon it would be ok start like it is just wind it over with throttle shut in case there is water in the cylinders less chance hydraulicing the motor with the fuel shut off

Paul
On my d4d the liner pitted and let water in oil had to install new pistons and liners
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Fri, Aug 29, 2014 7:31 PM
catsilver
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Reply to sandcreek:
On my d4d the liner pitted and let water in oil had to install new pistons and liners
Before you start tearing into the engine, check the water pump tell- tale hole to see if it is blocked, this will cause any water going past the pump seal to go into the sump.
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Sat, Aug 30, 2014 12:51 AM
moooz
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Reply to mrsmackpaul:
did the oil go in after sitting for a long time or when you have had it running ?

I reckon it would be ok start like it is just wind it over with throttle shut in case there is water in the cylinders less chance hydraulicing the motor with the fuel shut off

Paul
[quote="mrsmackpaul"]did the oil go in after sitting for a long time or when you have had it running ?

Paul[/quote]

Paul, do you mean coolant/water? Have been running with the oil for about 20hrs. Last use prior to topping up coolant the 3-4 litres was for about 2-3hrs. Before that coolant level at pre start checks was ok.

thanks Catsilver, will do. Might save a lot of blood sweat, tears and $ if that proves to be the problem.

thanks sandcreek, heres hoping that's not the case.
Leo
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Sun, Aug 31, 2014 4:17 AM
mrsmackpaul
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Reply to moooz:
[quote="mrsmackpaul"]did the oil go in after sitting for a long time or when you have had it running ?

Paul[/quote]

Paul, do you mean coolant/water? Have been running with the oil for about 20hrs. Last use prior to topping up coolant the 3-4 litres was for about 2-3hrs. Before that coolant level at pre start checks was ok.

thanks Catsilver, will do. Might save a lot of blood sweat, tears and $ if that proves to be the problem.

thanks sandcreek, heres hoping that's not the case.
yeah mate meant did the water go in to the oil when it was sitting or when you were running it
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Sun, Aug 31, 2014 3:28 PM
moooz
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Reply to catsilver:
Before you start tearing into the engine, check the water pump tell- tale hole to see if it is blocked, this will cause any water going past the pump seal to go into the sump.


had a look at the water pump but was unable to spot the 'tell tale' hole. Any clues where abouts?
Leo
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Tue, Sep 2, 2014 8:56 AM
catsilver
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Reply to moooz:


had a look at the water pump but was unable to spot the 'tell tale' hole. Any clues where abouts?
The 330C had a slot under the water pump close to the timing case joint, the later 3304 engines had a drain hole in the pump which had a foam plug in it, these were a very effective seal when they were painted!
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Tue, Sep 2, 2014 7:23 PM
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