D4D left steer clutch slipping.

RM

Yes you can adjust the steering clutches. The adjustment will be found under the seat. Remove the long narrow cover and look for the two cranks that move when you pull the friction levers to the rear. Move the adjusters so that you gain some free travel to the clutch yoke. This should be covered in the operators manual if you have one. Also pull the drain plugs out of the bottom of the steering clutch housings to drain any surplus fluid. Put the plugs back in when the fluid has drained.

If you can get everything adjusted and working again, take a ride with the new driver and show him the proper method for steering the tractor.
No exceptions to the rules, he has to learn from you how to do everything correctly.

To adjust the steering clutches on a D4D, you need to go through a cover on the back, but I don't remember if it's the upper or lower 4 bolt cover. If memory serves there is a lock nut that requires a 3/4 socket, then a bigger nut with a 1 1/16 hex. I still have a cheap sawed off box end wrench in my tool box for this job. You will need to back the adjustment off, so that you have a couple inches of free play in the lever. Right now, the linkage might be holding the clutch partially released. As the clutches wear the linkage gets tighter, so you have to periodically back things off to keep the clutches from slipping.

Rick

I've got a slipping steering clutch on my D4D project too.

However, we're assuming that the tractor in this post is dry back end aren't we?

The D4D that I had was a 78a series with dry clutches.....I guess I should have mentioned that in my previous post.

Good Luck! I hope an adjustment fixes it, as pulling the steering clutches is a little bit of a job....been there, dun that.

Rick

Yeah Rick, I had visions of him crawling under there and releasing the drain plug!

Mine is 47H 412 Jap p/shift. Incidentally, an expert told me you're about 90% less likely to have to adjust steering clutches on a wet back end.

Cheers

RM

Yes you can adjust the steering clutches. The adjustment will be found under the seat. Remove the long narrow cover and look for the two cranks that move when you pull the friction levers to the rear. Move the adjusters so that you gain some free travel to the clutch yoke. This should be covered in the operators manual if you have one. Also pull the drain plugs out of the bottom of the steering clutch housings to drain any surplus fluid. Put the plugs back in when the fluid has drained.

If you can get everything adjusted and working again, take a ride with the new driver and show him the proper method for steering the tractor.
No exceptions to the rules, he has to learn from you how to do everything correctly.

[quote="fordhook"]

Yes you can adjust the steering clutches. The adjustment will be found under the seat. Remove the long narrow cover and look for the two cranks that move when you pull the friction levers to the rear. Move the adjusters so that you gain some free travel to the clutch yoke. This should be covered in the operators manual if you have one. Also pull the drain plugs out of the bottom of the steering clutch housings to drain any surplus fluid. Put the plugs back in when the fluid has drained.

If you can get everything adjusted and working again, take a ride with the new driver and show him the proper method for steering the tractor.
No exceptions to the rules, he has to learn from you how to do everything correctly.[/quote]

Well, took off the covers on both sides and took a peek inside. Right side clean as a whistle but left side had about a quarter inch of material including a good speckling of shining stuff, we usually refer to as metal shavings, on the opening and throughout the case.
Just for grins, I adjusted the clutch waaay out and fired it up with both clutches pulled back and left the left hand go and made a real nice sound like the needle at the end of the record (this crew should know what a record is) and just sat there...

It's now pulled into the shop for me to tear the top off and yank out the unit so I can take it into Holt Bros (yes, the original location) and let them press new hardware on.

Question:
Will I be able to set the unit back in with new cap seals and call it good or are there any master trickeries that I need to perform?

Thanks,

Robert
aka - 'old dog' learning new tricks...

...Oh... the driver will be pulling drain plugs and I'll be sure he is good and centered!

think you should send your 'driver' back to the supermarket parking bay and have him go back to driving shopping trolleys. Bit like back in the days of cable scrapers, drivers who broke ropes had to restring them, helps to 'focus' there thinking 👋

1) Remove fuel tank and battery boxes.

2) Remove covers from top of bevel gear housing.

3) Remove Brake Band and linkage.

4) Remove the bolts from both hubs that retain the steering clutch.

5) Lift clutch out of housing with suitable lifting device.

I think that is the basic procedure. A shop manual is always helpful to have close by.