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D47U Fan Belt Replacement and manuals

D47U Fan Belt Replacement and manuals

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snox38
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New member and greatly appreciate all the info on here. I read the other post on this subject and am still having problems. What I have going is we are trying to change the fan belt on a D47u serial #D47U8691. It has what I believe is a #44 hydraulic pump on the front serial #6W5644. What we have some so far is remove pump and tank off the front and set to the side. We unbolted the coupler to the crank I believe their was six bolts holding this. We then took out all the grease zerks on the coupler and shaft to the pump. We are still having trouble getting the fan belt in there. I don't know if there is something that I m missing or not. I read on one thread about a D2 with same pump that there was a set screw somewhere but no picture or description. It is looking like have to drop skid plate and move radiator forward to bake belt swing in.

Would also be interested in manuals for this equipment as we do use on a regular basis.
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Sun, Mar 26, 2017 8:14 AM
neil
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The procedure for the D4, which is similar to the D2 I believe, is to slacken off the fan pulley adjustment (remove two clamps on the back of the pulley and then turn the back half of the sheave which is threaded onto the front half), and then slip the belt off the crank pulley and then past each fan blade. It's helpful to find a spot on the periphery of the fan guard that gives the most space to slip the belt between the guard and the tip of the fan blade. Again, if it's like the D2, there's no requirement to remove any other parts. Picture shows clamp bolt and threaded sheave. I don't have my fan guard on but procedure is still the same.

[attachment=40924]IMG_4390.jpg[/attachment]
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Sun, Mar 26, 2017 8:20 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to neil:
The procedure for the D4, which is similar to the D2 I believe, is to slacken off the fan pulley adjustment (remove two clamps on the back of the pulley and then turn the back half of the sheave which is threaded onto the front half), and then slip the belt off the crank pulley and then past each fan blade. It's helpful to find a spot on the periphery of the fan guard that gives the most space to slip the belt between the guard and the tip of the fan blade. Again, if it's like the D2, there's no requirement to remove any other parts. Picture shows clamp bolt and threaded sheave. I don't have my fan guard on but procedure is still the same.

[attachment=40924]IMG_4390.jpg[/attachment]
Attachment
Were you able to separate the coupling? Should be able to move the 1/2 coupling and shaft forward enough with the #44 pump removed. If your hitting the radiator then it to will need to be removed. Doesn't take much room to slip the belt through there.
Later couplings had spacers that you could remove to install the belt but that is not the drive used with the 6W5644 pump.
Don't forget to put the plug back in that retains the gear forward in the coupling.
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Sun, Mar 26, 2017 9:53 AM
snox38
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Were you able to separate the coupling? Should be able to move the 1/2 coupling and shaft forward enough with the #44 pump removed. If your hitting the radiator then it to will need to be removed. Doesn't take much room to slip the belt through there.
Later couplings had spacers that you could remove to install the belt but that is not the drive used with the 6W5644 pump.
Don't forget to put the plug back in that retains the gear forward in the coupling.
Thank You for the answers, I will have to check again in the morning and see if I can get belt to fit. The replacement belt we got is a cogged one on the inside, is there ribbed belt that would fit as I think it would be easier to bend and get in? What is meant by putting plug back in to keep gear forward in coupling?
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Sun, Mar 26, 2017 10:31 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to snox38:
Thank You for the answers, I will have to check again in the morning and see if I can get belt to fit. The replacement belt we got is a cogged one on the inside, is there ribbed belt that would fit as I think it would be easier to bend and get in? What is meant by putting plug back in to keep gear forward in coupling?
See plug #5 or #17.
Cogged belt is correct. Target fit is sideways.
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Sun, Mar 26, 2017 12:43 PM
Rome K/G
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Reply to Old Magnet:
See plug #5 or #17.
Cogged belt is correct. Target fit is sideways.
While your in that area check and make sure the water pump housing has a relief valve and not a grease fitting in both ports. Some tractors have the valve on top and the fitting on the bottom and some were opposite, check your parts book with correct serial number. If no relief valve grease gets pushed past the seal and fills up the pulley housing.
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Sun, Mar 26, 2017 9:48 PM
Paso Bob
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Reply to Rome K/G:
While your in that area check and make sure the water pump housing has a relief valve and not a grease fitting in both ports. Some tractors have the valve on top and the fitting on the bottom and some were opposite, check your parts book with correct serial number. If no relief valve grease gets pushed past the seal and fills up the pulley housing.
The pump shaft that is bolted to the fan belt pulley has six bolts. Remove the bolts and pry between the pump flange and the belt pulley. It should open up about a half inch, then turn the belt sideways and slide it through. I just changed my fan belt out last fall and had no problem.
D-4 7U-43159 with 4S dozer and Cat 40 scraper, D-7 3T-1179 with Cat 7S hydraulic dozer, D-7 17A 13,944, D-8 14A-1160 with Cat 8S cable dozer, Cat 12-99E-4433 Grader. All runners and users.
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Mon, Mar 27, 2017 11:12 AM
neil
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Reply to Rome K/G:
While your in that area check and make sure the water pump housing has a relief valve and not a grease fitting in both ports. Some tractors have the valve on top and the fitting on the bottom and some were opposite, check your parts book with correct serial number. If no relief valve grease gets pushed past the seal and fills up the pulley housing.


Rome, is this the same situation with the D2 pump? I just looked in the parts manual and it lists a 45 degree grease nipple 3B8485 and another fitting that looks like a grease nipple with the top part 'broken off' 4B4550 - is that the relief fitting? Does it matter which location it's in?
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Mon, Mar 27, 2017 5:32 PM
Rome K/G
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Reply to neil:


Rome, is this the same situation with the D2 pump? I just looked in the parts manual and it lists a 45 degree grease nipple 3B8485 and another fitting that looks like a grease nipple with the top part 'broken off' 4B4550 - is that the relief fitting? Does it matter which location it's in?
Yes same for the D2, the 4550 is the relief valve. not sure why some locations are different, may be the way the housing is made internally so check the parts book.
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Mon, Mar 27, 2017 11:42 PM
neil
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Reply to Rome K/G:
Yes same for the D2, the 4550 is the relief valve. not sure why some locations are different, may be the way the housing is made internally so check the parts book.
Ok, looks like I need to swap one of mine out : )
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Tue, Mar 28, 2017 12:42 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to neil:
Ok, looks like I need to swap one of mine out : )
Go easy on the prying, you don't want to distort the combination seal and sheet metal retainer.
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Tue, Mar 28, 2017 9:36 PM
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