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D47U -bad sign looking for opinion

D47U -bad sign looking for opinion

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chrismill
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I've got a 52 d4 that hadn't been run in many years.
Got it running and sounded good, then developed a knock.
Was hoping it was an injector from sitting. Knock seemed to go away after running some sea foam through.
Went to change oil. Which looked ok before and when I got to filter had a bunch of shiny flakes of metal. I then poured the drain oil through a screen and found more flakes and a couple small chunks. All the debris seems to be not attracted to a magnet.
Can anyone guess what went bad? Rod bearing? I know I won't be sure till I get on there. Can rod bearings be replaced through the lower side panels or does motor have to come out?
I know it's not a good sign, I actually thought it was running pretty good.[attachment=36918]image.jpg[/attachment][attachment=36919]image.jpg[/attachment]
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Wed, Jul 20, 2016 1:13 AM
ccjersey
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I have a D6 that's in the same shape. I hate it because it was a good running powerful engine before the previous owner kept rrunning it with diesel getting in the oil.

Afraid the bearing could be replaced through the side covers, but to no avail.

Bill Glen sanded the stuck aluminum off his 933 crankshaft and put in new bearings that have apparently lasted, but that is definitely the exception. He started it up with frozen water in the bottom of the oil pan if i remember correctly. Must have stopped it pretty quick!

I had the rod off this D6 and the journal is BAD looking. Guy kept running it after it started knocking getting it loaded on trailer etc. Crank was already turned 0.030 under so unless it would turn to 0.050 and I could get aftermarket undersize to fit, even an overhaul is out of the picture. I am planning to install a replacement engine I already have. That is always a risk, might be a good one, might not! I will crank it up before I put it in the tractor, but really won't know for sure until I get to work it.

There used to be small hand held power tools that were used to grind crankshaft journals in place in the block, but as far as I know, that technology is limited to large power plants like ship engines etc.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Wed, Jul 20, 2016 1:49 AM
chrismill
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Reply to ccjersey:
I have a D6 that's in the same shape. I hate it because it was a good running powerful engine before the previous owner kept rrunning it with diesel getting in the oil.

Afraid the bearing could be replaced through the side covers, but to no avail.

Bill Glen sanded the stuck aluminum off his 933 crankshaft and put in new bearings that have apparently lasted, but that is definitely the exception. He started it up with frozen water in the bottom of the oil pan if i remember correctly. Must have stopped it pretty quick!

I had the rod off this D6 and the journal is BAD looking. Guy kept running it after it started knocking getting it loaded on trailer etc. Crank was already turned 0.030 under so unless it would turn to 0.050 and I could get aftermarket undersize to fit, even an overhaul is out of the picture. I am planning to install a replacement engine I already have. That is always a risk, might be a good one, might not! I will crank it up before I put it in the tractor, but really won't know for sure until I get to work it.

There used to be small hand held power tools that were used to grind crankshaft journals in place in the block, but as far as I know, that technology is limited to large power plants like ship engines etc.
Hmm, is it usually a must to remove and turn a new crankshaft after a rod bearing goes bad? I know I have to get in there and see. Just trying to figure out what I'm probably gonna have to do. -Thanks
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Wed, Jul 20, 2016 6:16 PM
dpendzic
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Reply to chrismill:
Hmm, is it usually a must to remove and turn a new crankshaft after a rod bearing goes bad? I know I have to get in there and see. Just trying to figure out what I'm probably gonna have to do. -Thanks
"There used to be small hand held power tools that were used to grind crankshaft journals in place in the block, but as far as I know, that technology is limited to large power plants like ship engines etc. "

back in the 50's my mechanic father use to have a guy come in and grind crankshaft journals while he had the car up on the lift. Haven't heard of anyone doing that now---sure saved a lot of work!
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Wed, Jul 20, 2016 6:56 PM
neil
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Reply to dpendzic:
"There used to be small hand held power tools that were used to grind crankshaft journals in place in the block, but as far as I know, that technology is limited to large power plants like ship engines etc. "

back in the 50's my mechanic father use to have a guy come in and grind crankshaft journals while he had the car up on the lift. Haven't heard of anyone doing that now---sure saved a lot of work!
Hi Chris,
flakes attracted to the magnet won't be the aluminum bearing material so it might have peeled off the journal. I just ground my D2's crank. Wasn't so bad. I had one of the journals built back up to standard because I wasn't able to locate an undersize bearing for it. If only one of your journals is bad and is undersize, then that would be an option. Although it costs $, the benefit of fixing your crank is that you then know what you have. I'm thinking since this unit sat a while, one of your oil galleries might have blocked up with crud and might explain why a bearing ran.
I think you can do rod bearings through the side. If the engine is otherwise running well, it would definitely be worth spending some time investigating.
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Wed, Jul 20, 2016 7:07 PM
chrismill
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Reply to neil:
Hi Chris,
flakes attracted to the magnet won't be the aluminum bearing material so it might have peeled off the journal. I just ground my D2's crank. Wasn't so bad. I had one of the journals built back up to standard because I wasn't able to locate an undersize bearing for it. If only one of your journals is bad and is undersize, then that would be an option. Although it costs $, the benefit of fixing your crank is that you then know what you have. I'm thinking since this unit sat a while, one of your oil galleries might have blocked up with crud and might explain why a bearing ran.
I think you can do rod bearings through the side. If the engine is otherwise running well, it would definitely be worth spending some time investigating.
Yes all the material, flakes, couple little chunks the size of peppercorn were not attracted to a magnet, so hopefully it's softer aluminum and crankshaft withstood damage. It would be nice to be able to replace through the side panel.
The machine isn't pretty but the undercarriage is in real good shape, would be nice to keep it going.
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Wed, Jul 20, 2016 7:37 PM
catsilver
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Reply to chrismill:
Yes all the material, flakes, couple little chunks the size of peppercorn were not attracted to a magnet, so hopefully it's softer aluminum and crankshaft withstood damage. It would be nice to be able to replace through the side panel.
The machine isn't pretty but the undercarriage is in real good shape, would be nice to keep it going.
If those bits were trapped in the filter, its likely that some more has gone round the system with the oil to do more damage later on, I would be preparing to take the engine out for a strip, inspect, clean and repair.
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Wed, Jul 20, 2016 7:50 PM
Gregness
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Reply to catsilver:
If those bits were trapped in the filter, its likely that some more has gone round the system with the oil to do more damage later on, I would be preparing to take the engine out for a strip, inspect, clean and repair.
My Grampa did new rings and rod bearings with the engine in place on our D2, through the side windows- I think the design is the same on the D4.

Good luck!

Greg
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Thu, Jul 21, 2016 12:08 AM
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