D42T Starter Pinion

Bernie, The four missing bolts hold the pinion latch assy to the pinion gear. With them out the latch assy may not rotate fast enough to release and with the bolts out may not disengage start pinion from flywheel. If it hasnt damaged itself yet would fix right away. The sleeve with the latches has a spring that pulls pinion out of flywheel as main starts . The latches have to be in line with the oval head on the pinion shaft to catch . Turn the sleeve and try to see if latching with the bolt holes in line with gear. You cant use too long of bolts or it will go too far into sleeve and interfere. I think some bolts had holes drilled for wire locking but loctite will work. John D

In all the little later tractors Cat did away with the wire locking method of the pinion bolts and went to 4-4H1350 bolts and 2-4H1351 locks so I,m sure Cat dealers sell them yet.

I saw the wire on the drawings. That was my next question. It sounds like I was pretty lucky that the pinion operated as it should have.

Thanks-bernie

I wonder if these bolts being gone caused my starting pinion to disengage prematurely? I have to hold the pinion lever up while turning over the main engine.

Any thoughts?

Yes the bolts missing will caue all knds of turning problems so it,s a wonder it would even turn at all so something must have been hanging on yet.Make sure the threads aren,t stripped out in the pinion gear where the sleeve bolts thread down through to it.

More than likely the threads are striped out (only give you about 3-4 fine threads) and the holes wallowed out. When you get the new replacement parts use permanent lock-tite as well as the wire or strap retainers......another Cat bogus design🙄 🙄

Hello-CORRECT TERMINOLOGY IF I HAVE SOMETHING INCORRECT-BEEN THERE DONE THAT.

I am back to this. As noted in a prior post by Tried Iron there are six equally spaced easily visible holes in the pinion gear-two of which are in line with the latches, (3B5440(1 tooth) and 3B5441(two teeth)). I understand there are four not visible holes in the pinion sleeve.

A parade of questions...the pinion gear spins freely now as the capscrews(4H1350) and locks(4H1351) are not yet installed.

1. I assume that since the latches have different teeth patterns that they must be set in a certain position-how can I know what that is?

2. Two of the holes in the pinion gear will be left empty since there are only four capscrews required. Are those that are left empty the two in line with the latches? What is the purpose of those two additional holes?

3. The holes in the pinion gear are stripped for the capscrews. Minimal threads are visible, but screws do not catch. I suspect the holes in the pinion sleeve are also stripped. I am not too keen on replacing any parts-is it possible to re-tap the holes or is there a better solution? I am not sure that pemanent lock-tite will catch.

OldMagnet you said it, not much thread reach and the holes are wallowed.

I am not sure I see how the lock strips hold the capsrews in-they are pretty rigid. I would think that they would have some elasticity like a lock washer does to keep the screws in a bind.

4. Does anyone have a picture of the installed lock and screw set?

I am pretty sure I will have a few more questions-working real hard on self sufficiency here, but it is what it is.

Thanks-
bernie

Question 1.
The latches are tied together by the one tooth in between the two teeth. Only work one way.

Question 2.
The extra set of holes are provided to best align the latch dogs with the stop after it is screwed into the main shaft. Be sure to be latching the oblong shaped ears of the stop as best you can....don't always align perfectly.

Question 3.
I have considered trying to drill and thread for the next size bolts but never got around to actually doing it. In general your sort of screwed and new parts are required.

Question 4.
The locks where you bend the tabs work better than the wire but neither are all that great. Permanent lock tite helps considerably will require heat come time to remove.