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D4 stuck steering clutches

D4 stuck steering clutches

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ibrich
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I have a couple of stuck steering clutches on a D4. This is not a new problem but one that had not been fixed. TractorDon said the following: "Try over adjusting the frictions, to get max seperation of the discs"

Here is a picture, [attachment=15320]IMG_2546.jpg[/attachment]

The question is (if you can tell from the photo) are the clutches adjusted to max separation? I can't figure out how the clutches work but it seems they are adjusted for the most travel.

BTW, they are soaking at the present time.

Any help would be great.

Rich
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Thu, Nov 8, 2012 10:04 AM
Inter674
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you need to pull the levers back and watch which way the threaded plunger moves. Then just lengthen this rod until it is hard up in the cups, plus turn it a a bit more into the cups and this will give max separation. I would not over do it though as it may cause damage.
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Thu, Nov 8, 2012 5:00 PM
D4Jim
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Reply to Inter674:
you need to pull the levers back and watch which way the threaded plunger moves. Then just lengthen this rod until it is hard up in the cups, plus turn it a a bit more into the cups and this will give max separation. I would not over do it though as it may cause damage.
Rich,
check the trunions on each clutch. That is the "T" shaped gizmo at the end of the top opening. There should be slight movement of the trunion with the levers released so that the clutches will engage. They can be adjusted with the large lock nut and the 5/8" square head screw sticking out the end. Loosen the large nut and then you can adjust the clutch with the square headed screw. Don't remember which way to turn but you can figure it out. Might need some Kroil on the lock nut to get it loose but don't drip too much down on the clutches.

The U series had an adjustable bolt to control the throw of the levers but this must be an earlier series without the bolts in the front of the case opening.

Good luck!

Might pull the clutch compartment drain plugs on each side to make certain the clutch compartment is not full of water down by the clutches. It should be dry.

Jim
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Thu, Nov 8, 2012 9:06 PM
ibrich
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Reply to D4Jim:
Rich,
check the trunions on each clutch. That is the "T" shaped gizmo at the end of the top opening. There should be slight movement of the trunion with the levers released so that the clutches will engage. They can be adjusted with the large lock nut and the 5/8" square head screw sticking out the end. Loosen the large nut and then you can adjust the clutch with the square headed screw. Don't remember which way to turn but you can figure it out. Might need some Kroil on the lock nut to get it loose but don't drip too much down on the clutches.

The U series had an adjustable bolt to control the throw of the levers but this must be an earlier series without the bolts in the front of the case opening.

Good luck!

Might pull the clutch compartment drain plugs on each side to make certain the clutch compartment is not full of water down by the clutches. It should be dry.

Jim
Dear D4Jim and Inter674,

It is looking like this is a real problem. The left side shows no movement at all and the right only slight. From what I can tell the adjustment is all the way out. Frankly, it is a little confusing understanding what is happen with the clutches or basically how the work.

The problem is that the machine sat for way too long in an area where it could not be turned. The tractor did get started a few times so the engine is in better condition than the steering.

I know there has been a lot of discussion about D2 and D4 steering clutches. I have done a search on that subject and I see there is some disagreement on what to do to corrected the problem. I removed the drain plugs and they were dry (rusty yes but no water at all). I have gone ahead an started to soak them in diesel. I need to move this machine soon. Right or wrong they are soaking. From the condition of the compartment it looks to be a serious rust problem.

Thanks for the help,

Rich
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Thu, Nov 8, 2012 9:51 PM
Mike Walsh
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Reply to ibrich:
Dear D4Jim and Inter674,

It is looking like this is a real problem. The left side shows no movement at all and the right only slight. From what I can tell the adjustment is all the way out. Frankly, it is a little confusing understanding what is happen with the clutches or basically how the work.

The problem is that the machine sat for way too long in an area where it could not be turned. The tractor did get started a few times so the engine is in better condition than the steering.

I know there has been a lot of discussion about D2 and D4 steering clutches. I have done a search on that subject and I see there is some disagreement on what to do to corrected the problem. I removed the drain plugs and they were dry (rusty yes but no water at all). I have gone ahead an started to soak them in diesel. I need to move this machine soon. Right or wrong they are soaking. From the condition of the compartment it looks to be a serious rust problem.

Thanks for the help,

Rich
I take it you either tried to break them loose under power or your circumstances are such that you are unable to give this a try.
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Fri, Nov 9, 2012 1:17 AM
D4Jim
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Reply to ibrich:
Dear D4Jim and Inter674,

It is looking like this is a real problem. The left side shows no movement at all and the right only slight. From what I can tell the adjustment is all the way out. Frankly, it is a little confusing understanding what is happen with the clutches or basically how the work.

The problem is that the machine sat for way too long in an area where it could not be turned. The tractor did get started a few times so the engine is in better condition than the steering.

I know there has been a lot of discussion about D2 and D4 steering clutches. I have done a search on that subject and I see there is some disagreement on what to do to corrected the problem. I removed the drain plugs and they were dry (rusty yes but no water at all). I have gone ahead an started to soak them in diesel. I need to move this machine soon. Right or wrong they are soaking. From the condition of the compartment it looks to be a serious rust problem.

Thanks for the help,

Rich
When you pull back on the levers does anything happen or do they just move a ways and stop? Does the lever move on back or stop? There should be 3 or 4 inches of free travel in the levers which all that does is take up the slop in the trunion that is loose so the clutch will engage when the levers are released and move forward.

Sounds like the soaking is the right way to go and about the only choice at this point. Pulling the clutches is a major ordeal especially with the older Cats and the one piece tranny cover.
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Fri, Nov 9, 2012 1:32 AM
Inter674
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Reply to D4Jim:
When you pull back on the levers does anything happen or do they just move a ways and stop? Does the lever move on back or stop? There should be 3 or 4 inches of free travel in the levers which all that does is take up the slop in the trunion that is loose so the clutch will engage when the levers are released and move forward.

Sounds like the soaking is the right way to go and about the only choice at this point. Pulling the clutches is a major ordeal especially with the older Cats and the one piece tranny cover.
hum, you might have some real issues to deal with there.

The lever linkages run in roller bearings under the top cover which can rust up as they are unable to be lubricated. Ths will require the top cover to come off.

As said, you need to ensure that pulling the levers actually moves the trunions across. If it does then the problem is after that, with the levers below that pull the clutch springs via a spigot bearing arrangement. The levers operate on a large shaft and again those roller bearings are prone to siezing up. Beneath that the mechanisms are usually reliable but it is possible for the spigot bearing to sieze on its shaft!

All in all soaking is probably the best first move, but after that it gets a to be a real PIA requiring disassembly.

Good luck.

PS it pays to get the service book as it has good diagrams that show how things are set up.
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Fri, Nov 9, 2012 2:22 AM
rjh-md
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Reply to Inter674:
hum, you might have some real issues to deal with there.

The lever linkages run in roller bearings under the top cover which can rust up as they are unable to be lubricated. Ths will require the top cover to come off.

As said, you need to ensure that pulling the levers actually moves the trunions across. If it does then the problem is after that, with the levers below that pull the clutch springs via a spigot bearing arrangement. The levers operate on a large shaft and again those roller bearings are prone to siezing up. Beneath that the mechanisms are usually reliable but it is possible for the spigot bearing to sieze on its shaft!

All in all soaking is probably the best first move, but after that it gets a to be a real PIA requiring disassembly.

Good luck.

PS it pays to get the service book as it has good diagrams that show how things are set up.
It looks like in your picture that the adjustment is backed out ,so that the cluches are not able to release when the bellcrankes are pulled forward . Tighten the 1/7/8 nut s in to the center of the tractor ,this will compress the springs in the clutches ,and release any tension on the discs .You may still have to soak them in kerosene ,and put the tractor under a load to brake the clutch discs lose . If they brake free ,back off the nuts ,and then snug them up up untill you get 3 to 4 inches free travel measured from the top of the steering cluch levers to the dash
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Fri, Nov 9, 2012 4:30 AM
Inter674
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Reply to rjh-md:
It looks like in your picture that the adjustment is backed out ,so that the cluches are not able to release when the bellcrankes are pulled forward . Tighten the 1/7/8 nut s in to the center of the tractor ,this will compress the springs in the clutches ,and release any tension on the discs .You may still have to soak them in kerosene ,and put the tractor under a load to brake the clutch discs lose . If they brake free ,back off the nuts ,and then snug them up up untill you get 3 to 4 inches free travel measured from the top of the steering cluch levers to the dash
I had a look at mine last night and it seems to me that the adjustment on yours is already up tight which should mean the clutches are released already?

Maybe someone has done this prior to storage to prevent them siezing up?

Mine has a little bit of free play between the end of the push rod/ball and the cup that it sits in and has about half the push rod adjustment left. My clutches are at least 10 years old.
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Fri, Nov 9, 2012 5:18 AM
ibrich
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Reply to Inter674:
I had a look at mine last night and it seems to me that the adjustment on yours is already up tight which should mean the clutches are released already?

Maybe someone has done this prior to storage to prevent them siezing up?

Mine has a little bit of free play between the end of the push rod/ball and the cup that it sits in and has about half the push rod adjustment left. My clutches are at least 10 years old.
Inter674

Your wrote; "it seems to me that the adjustment on yours is already up tight which should mean the clutches are released already or they are worn out to the extent that the adjustment is all taken up."

Yes I agree that the adjustment is already used up or at least I have thought that for some time. The levers will stay in the pulled position without hold them back so the problem must be bigger than I thought. I know the tractor steered fine when it was purchased but it has sat for more than 7 years/ Time an tide have taken their toll.

I put fifteen gallons of diesel into steering clutch compartment after moving the tractor onto a canvas. It started to rain so covered the machine and will let it sit for the weekend.

Rich
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Fri, Nov 9, 2012 5:32 AM
Inter674
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Reply to ibrich:
Inter674

Your wrote; "it seems to me that the adjustment on yours is already up tight which should mean the clutches are released already or they are worn out to the extent that the adjustment is all taken up."

Yes I agree that the adjustment is already used up or at least I have thought that for some time. The levers will stay in the pulled position without hold them back so the problem must be bigger than I thought. I know the tractor steered fine when it was purchased but it has sat for more than 7 years/ Time an tide have taken their toll.

I put fifteen gallons of diesel into steering clutch compartment after moving the tractor onto a canvas. It started to rain so covered the machine and will let it sit for the weekend.

Rich
Hi

I amended that post because on reflection, as the clutches wear I think the slack in the adjustment - between the threaded rod and the cup - will be taken up. In other words the mechanisms will tighten possibly leading to clutch slipping unless the rod is backed out. I think this is why they say provide 3" travel on the sticks to allow for wear take up.

So if you release the tension, ie, back the rods out, the clutches should engage. Maybe before this try to rotate one of the tracks with it in gear and see what happens. If the track rotates and the other track stays still, then the clutch is already disengaged. That would be a good thing as backing off the adjuster should make it work😊

But then again, I get confused easily with these things!
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Fri, Nov 9, 2012 5:53 AM
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