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D4 starting

D4 starting

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xzp0hy
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I have a D4 that has been sitting for many years. I worked on the fuel system and installed new spark plugs in preparation to start the pony engine and then eventually the main engine. The main engine does not have a starter. They pony engine requires a hand crank (pulley on the back of the pony engine). Does anyone know where to obtain whatever is used to rap around the pulley so it can be cranked? Also, is there an easy way to check the operation of the magneto? Thank you in advance for your response.
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Wed, Jan 4, 2012 7:55 AM
hhydro
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A cotton sash cord about 8 feet long and 1/4" to 3/8" diameter works nicely.

To check the mag remove a sparkplug and plug it in to the wire again. Give the rope a pull to spin the motor and look for a spark. The spark plug must be touching metal on the motor.
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Wed, Jan 4, 2012 8:10 AM
drujinin
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Reply to hhydro:


A cotton sash cord about 8 feet long and 1/4" to 3/8" diameter works nicely.

To check the mag remove a sparkplug and plug it in to the wire again. Give the rope a pull to spin the motor and look for a spark. The spark plug must be touching metal on the motor.
Steal the starter rope off from the neighbor that irritates you the most? 👋
Cut Mom's clothesline? 😆
That rope at the local Hardware store that feels like it would work?

My favorite way to test Magneto spark is to get the same neighbor whose lawnmower rope you took, to come over to have a couple of beers, then talk him into holding the sparkplug to the pony motor while watching for spark. 😈
:jaw: Just plain old Baling Twine works to!
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Wed, Jan 4, 2012 11:19 AM
Soapy
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Reply to drujinin:
Steal the starter rope off from the neighbor that irritates you the most? 👋
Cut Mom's clothesline? 😆
That rope at the local Hardware store that feels like it would work?

My favorite way to test Magneto spark is to get the same neighbor whose lawnmower rope you took, to come over to have a couple of beers, then talk him into holding the sparkplug to the pony motor while watching for spark. 😈
:jaw: Just plain old Baling Twine works to!
It appears that some cheese heads have somewhat of a mean streak in them!! ROFLMAO
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Thu, Jan 5, 2012 1:50 PM
zootownjeepguy
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Reply to Soapy:
It appears that some cheese heads have somewhat of a mean streak in them!! ROFLMAO
When my Brother was about 7 years old I used him as an "ignition tester" when our lawnmower quit (he was quite a brat way back then). Couldn't ever get him to do it again.:noidea:
Rich Salvaggio
D2 5U9917
'46 Willys CJ2A Farm Jeep, '39 Buick sedan, '49 International KB-7, '37 Allis Chalmers WC, Cushman Scooter(s)
Antique garden tractors & outboard motors
Other rusty old junk comes & goes without warning.

The 2 most useful tools to have in your shop are a Crystal Ball and a Magic Wand
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Fri, Jan 6, 2012 5:15 AM
drujinin
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Reply to zootownjeepguy:
When my Brother was about 7 years old I used him as an "ignition tester" when our lawnmower quit (he was quite a brat way back then). Couldn't ever get him to do it again.:noidea:
I'm laughing! Its all in jest.
Anyways, file the points, then find a condensor that will fit in there to replace when it doesn't spark. Most people way over analyze the Magneto, when all it really needs is the points filed, condensor changed and clean cap connections. Make sure the plug wires are metal core steel/copper, NOT automotive replacement carbon filament core as noise suppression cables are death to a magneto.
Do a SEARCH back about 4 or 5 pages as there is a fellow going thru startup on a D4 with many of the same questions you will have, plus a Clutch/Shift engagement description of operation was posted in that same Thread.
Jeff
PS
I'm not a REAL cheesehead! 😆
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Fri, Jan 6, 2012 7:23 PM
hhydro
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Reply to drujinin:
I'm laughing! Its all in jest.
Anyways, file the points, then find a condensor that will fit in there to replace when it doesn't spark. Most people way over analyze the Magneto, when all it really needs is the points filed, condensor changed and clean cap connections. Make sure the plug wires are metal core steel/copper, NOT automotive replacement carbon filament core as noise suppression cables are death to a magneto.
Do a SEARCH back about 4 or 5 pages as there is a fellow going thru startup on a D4 with many of the same questions you will have, plus a Clutch/Shift engagement description of operation was posted in that same Thread.
Jeff
PS
I'm not a REAL cheesehead! 😆
[quote="drujinin"]I'm laughing! Its all in jest.
Anyways, file the points, then find a condensor that will fit in there to replace when it doesn't spark. Most people way over analyze the Magneto, when all it really needs is the points filed, condensor changed and clean cap connections. Make sure the plug wires are metal core steel/copper, NOT automotive replacement carbon filament core as noise suppression cables are death to a magneto.
Do a SEARCH back about 4 or 5 pages as there is a fellow going thru startup on a D4 with many of the same questions you will have, plus a Clutch/Shift engagement description of operation was posted in that same Thread.
Jeff
PS
I'm not a REAL cheesehead! 😆[/quote]

Please expound on the "death to magneto" comment. Last summer I had to get a 5U D2 and 7U D4 going and among other problems the critters had gnawed away much of the spark plug boot. Having been shocked more than once while trying to reach in and adjust the choke I replaced them. The Cat part 9H-1180 wire set was $25.08 and I needed 4 sets. Being rather cheap I bought two for the 5U and took them to NAPA to pick out matching components.
This is what I got for $3.77 a set.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt=780312&Ntk=Keyword&Nty=1&Dn=0&D=780312&Dk=1&Dp=3&N=0
It took a few more parts for the magneto end terminal and boot, but that only added $0.92 per set.

I noticed when I put them in that the NAPA part was carbon filament and the Cat part was metallic core. The D2 with the Cat wires had a hotter spark and was a little easier to start even though I also replaced the points and condenser on the D4. What damage might I have caused with the carbon filament wire?

The 9H-1180 wire set was 7mm with a 90 degree terminal on the spark plug end (the same as NAPA Belden 780312 except for the wire core material). It turned out than neither the Cat or Napa parts had quite the correct boot for the mag end but I was able to split the original one and move it to the new wires and use the new boot over it.

Here are the part numbers for two sets (one starting engine) of a 7mm, metallic core, 90 degree terminal and boot with the mag terminal and boot.
[attachment=11731]napa-pony-wires.jpg[/attachment]

(How do I make the attached image full size?)

I'm hoping this will work. Let me know what you think.
Attachment
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Tue, Jan 10, 2012 7:34 AM
Walt D7-3T
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The ID above will be banned!!!!!!!
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Wed, Dec 18, 2019 3:12 AM
Walt D7-3T
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The ID above will be banned!!!!!!!
Has been BANNED!
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Wed, Dec 18, 2019 7:34 AM
Norm R2,22
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Has been BANNED!
The only problem I can see with the NAPA wire is that it is resistance wire. Great for new coil ignitions, but bad for mags. NAPA does have solid core ignition wire, or you can check with your local HVAC repair person. They use copper core wire for the igniter on oil burners.
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Wed, Dec 18, 2019 12:17 PM
bursitis
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Reply to Norm R2,22:
The only problem I can see with the NAPA wire is that it is resistance wire. Great for new coil ignitions, but bad for mags. NAPA does have solid core ignition wire, or you can check with your local HVAC repair person. They use copper core wire for the igniter on oil burners.
https://brillman.com/product/caterpillar-d2-d4-late-with-pony-motor-spark-plug-wire-set/

here ya go😊

D46U straight blade,D46U cat angle blade,allis chalmers AD4 grader and Khoering 404 dragline. D4C 40A,D4 2T and scraper.

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Wed, Dec 18, 2019 8:47 PM
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