D4 side cover mods

All of the 7U D4's that I have been around (except for my current tractor) have had the lower side panels cut to allow them to be removed without loosening the belly guard.

You can't see the modification once the pan is tightened back up and I don't think it changes any of the fit or functions of the guard - just makes your job a little easier.

Start cutting.

Thank you Phildirt. I am new to CATs and haven't examined many. I appreciate your experience and willingness to share it!

Elton

you may wish to add a stiffener strap to the back of the panel to stop vibration if made from tin plate

my machine didnt have any side covers so i made some lower plates out of 2mm sheet to make em easier to fit i cutout hand holds so the can be carried easier. i also made tags so they slip over the edge of belly plate to hold the bottom edge.

a good idea is to ensure the belly pan is free draining and can be hosed out easily with out removal. our hadnt been cleaned for yrs and was well caked with dirt and grime.
i got covered pressure blasting it. i wasnt allowed inside i had to wash most of it off outside first.

My belly pan had huge rocks in it and at least a wheelbarrow full of dirt. Thank you for your ideas. I installed an electric starter along with my pony motor. Old Magnet showed me the better way to install the starter to get almost enough clearance for the starter, but it will just slightly bend out the side cover. I must either build a little box like Old Magnet showed, or space the entire panel out maybe 3/16 to clear the starter. If I go a little bit more I can step around the belly pan mounting too. I am still working on that, but right now the hydraulics are taking priority. I am getting the cylinders rebuilt. I am putting seals and gaskets in the #44 hydraulic unit also. I have about 1/3 of the splines worn on the pump drive and the drive piece on the crank nose. I think I am simply going to pack it in grease and use it. I don't plan to make a living with this thing but I don't want it to be undependable either. Elton

are your ram shafts good? if not cheaper to have new shafting welded to the eye than rechrome the old shaft it works out about half price.

dont let anyone tell you you cant use the reusable hose ends either its only 1200psi not 5000 like modern gear. hence why the rams are so large, bigger the surface area of piston the more power at given pressure. just fit new grade 8 high tensile bolts to the clamps the hose is sae100r2 dash size 12(3/4) bore. 1 dash is a 1/16 of a inch

trainzkid88, I was going to replace the control shaft bushings, but when I found the source of the up and down slop and corrected it, things weren't so shaky after all! I had bought two bushings, but haven't used them. When I got the replacement top seal and noticed it was half as thick as the original, I put two in and no doubt it tightened things up a bit too. It is common in the fuel injection industry for the drive seal to actually be two seals, so I thought it shouldn't hurt. The input seal was the same dims as the original, so it only got one. I don't like the extra play in the splines, but after 65 years and only wearing a third of the splines away, I figured it would last my time. I am using modern adaptors for the straight and angled fittings that have JIC adaptors on the end. That way replacing hoses in the future will be easy with standard -12 JIC female hose ends.
Elton