Seems like it could only be a couple of options:
- seal is missing the rubber part, or the whole seal is missing (I just pulled apart my pony clutch and some idiot assembled it without the nut that holds the big bearing in place)
- front case has a crack/hole. Either replace or weld/JBWeld it up
In both cases, it would seem a fairly straightforward fix. I'd bet on the seal being defective and of course seals like that are cheap. I say save the low serial # tractor! : )
Cheers,
Neil
good thoughts, I appreciate the feedback. I forgot to mention that when I shut off the pony and let things sit, the oil continues to drain for several minutes. Looks like I have some things to look at before I give up on it. Any additional thoughts would appreciated and I will keep you posted...
JohnM
Possibly then it is the oil cooler.
I know when mine sprung a leak it poured and seemed to remember it continued even after shut down..........
It looks like there is hope for this old thing after all. We took off the hard nose and grill, fired up the pony to turns things over and sure enough a lot of oil comes out the front of oil cooler. The built up oily-dirt and the grill sent it in strange directions, but once everything was off and cleaned up, it was obvious. I am going to try to pull the core and have it repaired.
many thanks for the advice!
JohnM
No need for the oil cooler. Cat eventually eliminated it on later models.
Just by-pass the cooler at the oil filter.
You can replace the water core with a full width core if yours is bad.
The water core seems ok, but we shall see when things get fired up. I have been poking around the discussions about how to bypass the oil cooler core. I understand the idea of looping a fitting, but can I just plug the two outlets at the filter? Are they non-standard threads?
JohnM
This was just discussed not too long ago?
D2 or D4 (RD4), it doesn't matter.
The threads are the same as the NPT per inch but they are NOT tapered!
You can get them with a straight thread.
At least one guy has used an O-ring to seal.
Bottom line is you need to remove a spring and ball that is normally in place to bypass cold oil or in the event of an oil cooler plugging off.
This is why most guys just loop them.
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