D4 7U track adjustment.

I have a d4 5t that has tracks way passed 100% wear.
My "fix" was to have grade 8 threaded rod made to replace the adjustment bolt that goes through the spring. I pulled the idlers all the way out and got a measurement for the extra length. The spring and bolt will come out without splitting the track. I used the neighbors 30 ton press and compressed the spring installed the longer bolt and have been usi g it that way for almost a year with no problems
There is a thread on the BB on what I did, D4 going in the shop. Sorry don't know how to post a link.

http://www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.php?27155-D4-going-in-the-shop

If your thread and nut still work you could extend the length

meaning cut/weld in a spacer

The most common trick was to add spacers between the idler and the yokes, with longer bolts to attach the idler.
Have also seen spacers under the carrier roller to take up a little extra slack.

Spacers in the idle yokes are much easier and SAFER option than putting a different bolt through the spring.

I like Catsilvers suggestion of spacers in the idler yokes best. I have been a Cat operator but not a Cat mechanic so please bear with me if I ask really dumb questions about the mechanic side of how to fix something. 80 years old, retired and like to run the old D4 but short on mechanic ability.
Could you give me a "walk thru" on the procedure to get the spacers on the yoke? Also what do you suggest I use for spacers? I will probably need to heat the adj. nut and the clamp nuts to loosen. I have a torch for that.

Thank you.

Removing a link is not really a good thing to do. When wear reaches that point the elongated pitch is going to chew your sprockets anyway. Spacers on the yoke is the best answer. Even a stack of washers and longer bolts will work.

[attachment=50525]20180901_081527.jpg[/attachment]
Bplunk,
Here is an example of a spacer installed on a D2 idler yoke. D4 would be similar.

If I was doing the repair, I would first back off the track adjuster a fair bit so that when I installed the spacer (made as thick as possible), I would then have the ability to tighten the track some more later on.
As you can see by the picture, this isn't high tech engineering involved here; just use some plate stock of the thickness you need, get the hole pattern right and change out the bolts to longer grip length. Obviously you will have to do this repair to the inboard and outboard idler yoke arms.
Your biggest hurdle may be getting the bolts free to take the assembly apart. A little heat should make it come apart.

[attachment=50525]20180901_081527.jpg[/attachment]
Bplunk,
Here is an example of a spacer installed on a D2 idler yoke. D4 would be similar.

If I was doing the repair, I would first back off the track adjuster a fair bit so that when I installed the spacer (made as thick as possible), I would then have the ability to tighten the track some more later on.
As you can see by the picture, this isn't high tech engineering involved here; just use some plate stock of the thickness you need, get the hole pattern right and change out the bolts to longer grip length. Obviously you will have to do this repair to the inboard and outboard idler yoke arms.
Your biggest hurdle may be getting the bolts free to take the assembly apart. A little heat should make it come apart.