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D4 7U starting engine carburetor

D4 7U starting engine carburetor

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EliG
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Are there any tricks to removing the carburetor on the starting engine?  Pull the dash or the magneto to get to the lower bolts?  For some reason the manual I purchased is missing the entire section on the starting engine and I can't get the entire manual in the library to load completely.

Thanks!
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Fri, Jan 28, 2022 10:29 AM
bruce oz
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 [attachment=66550]carb1.JPG[/attachment] [attachment=66551]carb2.JPG[/attachment]
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Fri, Jan 28, 2022 10:39 AM
GrantJ
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 [attachment=66550]carb1.JPG[/attachment] [attachment=66551]carb2.JPG[/attachment]
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I had the carb off of my 6U a couple of times recently. After fighting with the nuts, I removed the governor to get to the outside bolt. Cat did not make it a user friendly job. Crows foot wrenches are needed for the inner nut. Fun, fun ,fun! Grant.
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Fri, Jan 28, 2022 11:17 AM
Busso20
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Reply to GrantJ:
I had the carb off of my 6U a couple of times recently. After fighting with the nuts, I removed the governor to get to the outside bolt. Cat did not make it a user friendly job. Crows foot wrenches are needed for the inner nut. Fun, fun ,fun! Grant.
The easiest way I found was bonnet off, governor off a couple of different brands and types of spanner/wrench and wedge them in to make it happen, 1/4 or 3/8 drive socket if inner nut is tight next to mag, it will only crack it then go back to spanner/wrench, the linkages are reasonable to access, yes a few harsh words the first time around then its not to bad there after.
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Fri, Jan 28, 2022 8:11 PM
Fat Dan
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Reply to Busso20:
The easiest way I found was bonnet off, governor off a couple of different brands and types of spanner/wrench and wedge them in to make it happen, 1/4 or 3/8 drive socket if inner nut is tight next to mag, it will only crack it then go back to spanner/wrench, the linkages are reasonable to access, yes a few harsh words the first time around then its not to bad there after.
They all have great ideas like extensive expletives ... they really do help. I'd like to add to the crow's foot tool and an old distributor wrench 1/2"- 9/16 has that funky s shape to get in odd places.
On my No.12 Motor grader's pony I had to remove the fuel bowl to get to the one nut.. Use caution with the long needle jet

Once off they are off simple carbs to work on
Good luck
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Sun, Jan 30, 2022 3:30 AM
Fat Dan
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I did find some rebuild kits for the 10hp pony one ebay
  [attachment=66579]IMG_3745.JPG[/attachment]
[attachment=66580]IMG_3732.JPG[/attachment]
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Sun, Jan 30, 2022 3:40 AM
trainzkid88
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Reply to Fat Dan:
I did find some rebuild kits for the 10hp pony one ebay
  [attachment=66579]IMG_3745.JPG[/attachment]
[attachment=66580]IMG_3732.JPG[/attachment]
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cat still have gasket kits for those carbs.
ours needed new butterflies too.

check the choke and throttle shaft bores for play if loos either have them machined for bushes or add a o-ring to each end to make a seal the wear can be a cause of hard starting.

the best way to clean them is to sonic bath them. it's worth the $ at the local mower shop to get it done.

"i reject your reality and substitute my own" - adam savage. i suspect my final words maybe "well shit, that didnt work"

instead of perfection some times we just have to accept practicality

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Mon, Jan 31, 2022 2:50 PM
EliG
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Reply to trainzkid88:
cat still have gasket kits for those carbs.
ours needed new butterflies too.

check the choke and throttle shaft bores for play if loos either have them machined for bushes or add a o-ring to each end to make a seal the wear can be a cause of hard starting.

the best way to clean them is to sonic bath them. it's worth the $ at the local mower shop to get it done.
Thanks for all the suggestions. I got side tracked and haven't had a chance to get back to working on it. I bought some cheap wrenches and am going to creatively adjust them to get to the nuts.
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Tue, Feb 1, 2022 9:34 AM
Fat Dan
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Reply to trainzkid88:
cat still have gasket kits for those carbs.
ours needed new butterflies too.

check the choke and throttle shaft bores for play if loos either have them machined for bushes or add a o-ring to each end to make a seal the wear can be a cause of hard starting.

the best way to clean them is to sonic bath them. it's worth the $ at the local mower shop to get it done.
[quote="trainzkid88 post=235375 "]cat still have gasket kits for those carbs.
ours needed new butterflies too.

check the choke and throttle shaft bores for play if loos either have them machined for bushes or add a o-ring to each end to make a seal the wear can be a cause of hard starting.

the best way to clean them is to sonic bath them. it's worth the $ at the local mower shop to get it done.
 [/quote]
Thanks trainzkid88 that's good to know ... I had gotten mine before I knew how to SIS over on Cat.com
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Tue, Feb 1, 2022 10:19 AM
Outbackrider
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Reply to Fat Dan:
[quote="trainzkid88 post=235375 "]cat still have gasket kits for those carbs.
ours needed new butterflies too.

check the choke and throttle shaft bores for play if loos either have them machined for bushes or add a o-ring to each end to make a seal the wear can be a cause of hard starting.

the best way to clean them is to sonic bath them. it's worth the $ at the local mower shop to get it done.
 [/quote]
Thanks trainzkid88 that's good to know ... I had gotten mine before I knew how to SIS over on Cat.com
 [attachment=66631]B3749955-40DA-4A2F-ADBA-95D7593F8BA5.jpeg[/attachment] [attachment=66625]CDD885A6-6CE2-4871-BCBC-A7F8218758A0.jpeg[/attachment] [attachment=66624]7AEF276A-841E-4311-8B5E-3450505404E9.jpeg[/attachment]For me, I found removing the gas fuel bowl allowed the easiest access to remove the 2 nuts holding the carb onto the starting engine. Remove the 2 screws that hold the bowl on, and gently pull the fuel bowl horizontally as mentioned earlier. You can see the corroded long brass jet tube that connects the bowl to the carb in my photo (photos posted in reverse order) I had to replace my jet, it was toast, the jet is still available.   Once all cleaned up and all passages cleaned, (there are good posts in the forums on how to clean the passages)  I reattached the carb body and then reattached the fuel bowl right on the starting engine.  
 
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Wed, Feb 2, 2022 12:43 PM
Fat Dan
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Reply to Outbackrider:
 [attachment=66631]B3749955-40DA-4A2F-ADBA-95D7593F8BA5.jpeg[/attachment] [attachment=66625]CDD885A6-6CE2-4871-BCBC-A7F8218758A0.jpeg[/attachment] [attachment=66624]7AEF276A-841E-4311-8B5E-3450505404E9.jpeg[/attachment]For me, I found removing the gas fuel bowl allowed the easiest access to remove the 2 nuts holding the carb onto the starting engine. Remove the 2 screws that hold the bowl on, and gently pull the fuel bowl horizontally as mentioned earlier. You can see the corroded long brass jet tube that connects the bowl to the carb in my photo (photos posted in reverse order) I had to replace my jet, it was toast, the jet is still available.   Once all cleaned up and all passages cleaned, (there are good posts in the forums on how to clean the passages)  I reattached the carb body and then reattached the fuel bowl right on the starting engine.  
 
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outbackrider
I have found a trick to helping R&R the float bowl by taking the two screwcaps (bolts) that hold the float bowl down, if they don't have them, make slots in the tops of the bolt heads for a common screwdriver.
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Wed, Feb 2, 2022 6:42 PM
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