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D4 7U Questions

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Old Cats
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Hi Everyone,
We are working on a siezed engine in a D47U #9081 with a Traxcavator HT4 #629 mounted to the crawler. The question is-- do we need to remove the HT4 to get the oilpan removed from the crawler or is there a better way to go about this that we are not seeing. If the HT4 needs removed, what is the best way to do that? It seems to be a very close fit. Going to need a piston and maybe a sleeve and also a lifter plate/panel and lifters for one cylinder if anybody has some extra parts.

Thanks in Advance
Gene
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Wed, Oct 12, 2011 10:41 AM
gemdozer
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I am still have extra used parts for ht4 motor and you should removed the pan and check the oil pump in same time
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Wed, Oct 12, 2011 5:43 PM
D4guy
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Reply to gemdozer:
I am still have extra used parts for ht4 motor and you should removed the pan and check the oil pump in same time
I have the same project going on. Maybe we can share notes.

There is a good discussion of the oil pan removal on the bb. Do a forum search on:

Traxcavator 955 12A - the next phase

If your HT4 is the same as that one you are in luck.

Mine is older and has a cross member at the front of the track frame as well as the main crossmember near the rear of the engine. I was under the thing yesterday and decided the front cross member (which is part of the loader frame) can be unbolted from the track frame (5 bolts each side). I am sure that the five bolts will have to be cut off. The nuts are rusted and recessed in a cavity in the track frame making them impossible to unscrew. I think that the tractor can then be tipped back at the front high enough to clear the main cross member without having to remove it.

On the newer units there is a lubricated pivot pin attaching the x member to the engine. This of course, must be removed first. Mine has a dry pivot pin that I don't yet know how to remove. I am about to drop the rear belly pan to see what is involved in removing the pivot pin.

You can check out my project at: http://www.mervbergman.net/CaterpillarD4/catD4.html I will be posting more photos there from time-to-time.

Good luck. Merv (d4guy)
1955 D4 Traxcavator, 1926 Model T Roadster, 1930 Model A Tudor, 1940 Diamond T 201, 1954 JD 40 dozer
www.mervbergman.net
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Wed, Oct 12, 2011 9:23 PM
D4guy
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Reply to D4guy:
I have the same project going on. Maybe we can share notes.

There is a good discussion of the oil pan removal on the bb. Do a forum search on:

Traxcavator 955 12A - the next phase

If your HT4 is the same as that one you are in luck.

Mine is older and has a cross member at the front of the track frame as well as the main crossmember near the rear of the engine. I was under the thing yesterday and decided the front cross member (which is part of the loader frame) can be unbolted from the track frame (5 bolts each side). I am sure that the five bolts will have to be cut off. The nuts are rusted and recessed in a cavity in the track frame making them impossible to unscrew. I think that the tractor can then be tipped back at the front high enough to clear the main cross member without having to remove it.

On the newer units there is a lubricated pivot pin attaching the x member to the engine. This of course, must be removed first. Mine has a dry pivot pin that I don't yet know how to remove. I am about to drop the rear belly pan to see what is involved in removing the pivot pin.

You can check out my project at: http://www.mervbergman.net/CaterpillarD4/catD4.html I will be posting more photos there from time-to-time.

Good luck. Merv (d4guy)
I broke my D4 Traxcavator site trying to up load more photos. My wife and webmaster will fix it when she gets home Thurs. evening.

Sorry about that.

Try http://www.mervbergman.net/CaterpillarD4/

m
1955 D4 Traxcavator, 1926 Model T Roadster, 1930 Model A Tudor, 1940 Diamond T 201, 1954 JD 40 dozer
www.mervbergman.net
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Thu, Oct 13, 2011 7:29 AM
Old Cats
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Reply to D4guy:
I broke my D4 Traxcavator site trying to up load more photos. My wife and webmaster will fix it when she gets home Thurs. evening.

Sorry about that.

Try http://www.mervbergman.net/CaterpillarD4/

m
Hi Merv,
Thanks for the information. I think we have about the same loaders with the 5 bolts on each side and 4 in the rear. I agree that the front bolts will have to be cut. I did try to just see if they would turn and could not budge, turn or twist them with about 4 foot of wrench and cheaterbar. I do not see the pivot so will look again. I have been able to move the three pistons and we are going to try to remove the rod nuts (through the side inspection cover) on the stuck piston and force piston sleeve and whatever else comes out the top by turning the crank on the front hub by the fan. The sleeve does move a bit when the pony clutch is engaged and you wiggle the rope pulley by hand so I think it will come out. If that does not work out we are not out anything that I know of. Then we will try to just "loosen" the loader front and back and see if we can get the clearance to get the pan off if needed and check out the oil pump as suggested by GemDozer (Thanks!). Hope you get your site back up, sometime I wonder why we buy these computers, seems like a lot to pay for frustration, but at the same time we sure learn a lot from each other!

Thanks
Gene, Old Cats
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Thu, Oct 13, 2011 7:55 AM
D4guy
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Reply to Old Cats:
Hi Merv,
Thanks for the information. I think we have about the same loaders with the 5 bolts on each side and 4 in the rear. I agree that the front bolts will have to be cut. I did try to just see if they would turn and could not budge, turn or twist them with about 4 foot of wrench and cheaterbar. I do not see the pivot so will look again. I have been able to move the three pistons and we are going to try to remove the rod nuts (through the side inspection cover) on the stuck piston and force piston sleeve and whatever else comes out the top by turning the crank on the front hub by the fan. The sleeve does move a bit when the pony clutch is engaged and you wiggle the rope pulley by hand so I think it will come out. If that does not work out we are not out anything that I know of. Then we will try to just "loosen" the loader front and back and see if we can get the clearance to get the pan off if needed and check out the oil pump as suggested by GemDozer (Thanks!). Hope you get your site back up, sometime I wonder why we buy these computers, seems like a lot to pay for frustration, but at the same time we sure learn a lot from each other!

Thanks
Gene, Old Cats
Hi Gene,

I think you don't have to loosen the loader frame at the back. As I understand it the whole thing will lift with the Cat frame and engine pivoting together around the rear axel, leaving the tracks and cross member on the ground.

If the sleeve is loose you should have no trouble pushing it out. That 4' lever I had clamped to the fan drive pulley would help in turning the crank. I had tried to turn my diesel with a lever attached to the pony flywheel but the pony clutch just slipped. After seeing what was inside it is no wonder!

merv
1955 D4 Traxcavator, 1926 Model T Roadster, 1930 Model A Tudor, 1940 Diamond T 201, 1954 JD 40 dozer
www.mervbergman.net
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Thu, Oct 13, 2011 9:06 PM
Old Cats
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Reply to D4guy:
Hi Gene,

I think you don't have to loosen the loader frame at the back. As I understand it the whole thing will lift with the Cat frame and engine pivoting together around the rear axel, leaving the tracks and cross member on the ground.

If the sleeve is loose you should have no trouble pushing it out. That 4' lever I had clamped to the fan drive pulley would help in turning the crank. I had tried to turn my diesel with a lever attached to the pony flywheel but the pony clutch just slipped. After seeing what was inside it is no wonder!

merv
That make sense, I will give it a try. I would really like to look in there. Someone ran this thing with a broken lifter and bracket and not all the pieces have been located.

Thanks
Gene
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Fri, Oct 14, 2011 9:04 AM
D4guy
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Reply to Old Cats:
That make sense, I will give it a try. I would really like to look in there. Someone ran this thing with a broken lifter and bracket and not all the pieces have been located.

Thanks
Gene
Well, last night I dropped the rear belly pan and was able to see how the rear end of the lift frame is attached. So I was wrong about not having to remove the bolts at the rear! Rats! That makes removing the oil pan a much bigger job. I don't know what to do now.

How is your project coming along?

My Cat has a dry clutch and someone removed the compartment drain plug and left it out. Now I have a heavy duty mouse apartment complex.

Merv
1955 D4 Traxcavator, 1926 Model T Roadster, 1930 Model A Tudor, 1940 Diamond T 201, 1954 JD 40 dozer
www.mervbergman.net
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Tue, Oct 18, 2011 9:13 PM
ag-mike
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Reply to D4guy:
Well, last night I dropped the rear belly pan and was able to see how the rear end of the lift frame is attached. So I was wrong about not having to remove the bolts at the rear! Rats! That makes removing the oil pan a much bigger job. I don't know what to do now.

How is your project coming along?

My Cat has a dry clutch and someone removed the compartment drain plug and left it out. Now I have a heavy duty mouse apartment complex.

Merv
u will have to jack up the back of the tractor because when the pan is on the floor u can't drag it out because something is hanging down (maybe oil pump). i done it 10 year ago and don't remember it all. this was a d4-u without loader. good luck.
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Wed, Oct 19, 2011 12:27 AM
D4guy
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Reply to ag-mike:
u will have to jack up the back of the tractor because when the pan is on the floor u can't drag it out because something is hanging down (maybe oil pump). i done it 10 year ago and don't remember it all. this was a d4-u without loader. good luck.
Hi again Gene,

How is your project coming along? Have you decided that you must remove the oil pan?

Well I spent another couple of hours under my HT4 and have now decided that it is not necessary to loosen ANY of the lift frame attach bolts. It now seems that it is possible to lift and tilt back just the engine and transmission to allow the pan to clear the cross member without involving the lift frame.

The engine mount pivot pin mentioned before goes through a saddle and through the cross member at the back end of the engine. The engine is mounted to the outer ends of the saddle with long c.a. 3/4" (7/8"?) bolts that pass through bosses on the engine block (as well as the oil pan). Removing these two bolts frees the engine from the saddle and the supporting cross member. The engine just sits there.

The hydraulic pump will have to be removed to disconnect the drive shaft from the engine crank. An earlier query brought info that the shaft has a splined coupling and the pump can be removed by easing if forward while loosing studs on the back side of the pump, as well as the four on the front. I am not sure if the radiator has to go but the fan and maybe the water pump must go. You already have that stuff off since you have the head off.

Now the engine and transmission can be tipped back to make enough room to allow the oil pan to clear the cross member. It will take quite a lot of lift to clear the oil pump. Be sure the drawbar does not contact the floor or the A frame members. I have 10" blocks under the tracks just a bit ahead of the sprockets. This gives more work room and will allow the engine to be lifted without looking like it will tip over backwards.

Bt the way the correct url for my Cat website is: http://www.mervbergman.net/CaterpillarD4/ I will be adding some more photos soon.

Keep me posted.

Regards, Merv
1955 D4 Traxcavator, 1926 Model T Roadster, 1930 Model A Tudor, 1940 Diamond T 201, 1954 JD 40 dozer
www.mervbergman.net
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Wed, Oct 19, 2011 8:24 AM
Old Cats
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Reply to ag-mike:
u will have to jack up the back of the tractor because when the pan is on the floor u can't drag it out because something is hanging down (maybe oil pump). i done it 10 year ago and don't remember it all. this was a d4-u without loader. good luck.
Well, I got the piston and sleeve out as an assembly today after about 2 hours of working through the side inspection plate. As hard as the cotter pins were to remove (finally just sheared the cotter on the right side with the rod nut) I do not think that one can be put back through the side but maybe. I looked at the traxcavator loader and where mine is bolted to the front track frame there is a cross piece welded across the bottom of the oil pan. If a person were to jack the engine and loader together, the pan would actually have to go towards the rear of the tractor then lowered from the front and the oil pump then slid out the front. I still think I may have to remove the loader or cut the cross member. I was hoping for a sectional pan or something similar but I guess the engineers just didn't figure anyone would need in there with the loader attached.
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Wed, Oct 19, 2011 8:35 AM
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