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D4-7u Pony problem

D4-7u Pony problem

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johnstone
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For the last half a dozen times or so when I ran the pony it did not seem to run like it normally did. It ran rough and did not want to run at full throttle...like it was weak. Now the pony will only start up when the throttle is pulled all the way out [idle] and as soon as you give it any throttle at all it wants to die. This pony has always only ran with the choke pulled all the way out [closed]. So what I got now is the throttle is pulled all the way out [idle] and the choke is pulled all the way out [closed], the pony starts right up but as soon as I push the throttle or the choke in it wants to die.
Now I know that the pony needs spark, fuel and air to run. I know it has spark since it idles just fine. I pulled the air cleaner, giving it unrestricted air...ran it...still the same. I removed the gas tank, fuel filter and fuel shut off valve....set up a temporary fuel tank hooked up directly to the carb...ran it...still the same. I'm guessing it must be something with the carb, but I don't know what I should check first. I'm hoping some of you guys with a little more experience than me will know how to proceed with the diagnoses of this problem. Thanks, John
1954 D47U, 1957 D69U, 1987 JD 950
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Fri, Sep 23, 2011 10:07 PM
Sasquatch
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It definitely sounds like you've got a really dirty carburetor. Those carbs are notorious for having the internal passages plugged with the crud that accumulates over time, and when you said you've had to run it before with the choke closed it means the pony wasn't getting enough fuel then, and now it's getting even less. The only really good way to truly clean the carb is to remove it and completely disassemble then remove the round plugs that seal the internal passages and get the dried up crud out. There have been several good threads on here that will have all the details.
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Fri, Sep 23, 2011 11:08 PM
8C 361
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Reply to Sasquatch:
It definitely sounds like you've got a really dirty carburetor. Those carbs are notorious for having the internal passages plugged with the crud that accumulates over time, and when you said you've had to run it before with the choke closed it means the pony wasn't getting enough fuel then, and now it's getting even less. The only really good way to truly clean the carb is to remove it and completely disassemble then remove the round plugs that seal the internal passages and get the dried up crud out. There have been several good threads on here that will have all the details.
I have 5 ponies with 5 different personalities when it comes to starting, all carb related.

Generally you can clean a carb enough to get a pony to run by taking the top off the carb while still on the pony. It is quite a commitment to pull the carb and can result in considerable down time.

There are threads on here by guys that have drilled out the plugs and cleaned the passages. It would be good to have a sticky with pictures showing how to do this.

My guess is that problem with needing the throttle off as well as the no run without choke is going to require carb off "major cleaning", good luck.
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Sat, Sep 24, 2011 12:58 AM
Arthropod
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Reply to 8C 361:
I have 5 ponies with 5 different personalities when it comes to starting, all carb related.

Generally you can clean a carb enough to get a pony to run by taking the top off the carb while still on the pony. It is quite a commitment to pull the carb and can result in considerable down time.

There are threads on here by guys that have drilled out the plugs and cleaned the passages. It would be good to have a sticky with pictures showing how to do this.

My guess is that problem with needing the throttle off as well as the no run without choke is going to require carb off "major cleaning", good luck.
There's a jet in the bottom of the carb bowl that is easily clogged. Remove the top off the carb. Soak the gas out of the bowl with a rag and then blow some compressed air in that jet. Blow in all the passages you see while you're at it. While off check the float level (top of float flipped over and measure from edge of metal to bottom of float). Don't have my book with me, but it's about an inch. Probably already a thread on this site that covers carb rebuild. I have four D2's and they are all different how the pony will start. One likes some choke. One no choke. etc.

If I am remembering correctly, that jet in the bottom clogged does give a symptom of needing the choke on to run.
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Sat, Sep 24, 2011 2:36 AM
bernie
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Reply to Arthropod:
There's a jet in the bottom of the carb bowl that is easily clogged. Remove the top off the carb. Soak the gas out of the bowl with a rag and then blow some compressed air in that jet. Blow in all the passages you see while you're at it. While off check the float level (top of float flipped over and measure from edge of metal to bottom of float). Don't have my book with me, but it's about an inch. Probably already a thread on this site that covers carb rebuild. I have four D2's and they are all different how the pony will start. One likes some choke. One no choke. etc.

If I am remembering correctly, that jet in the bottom clogged does give a symptom of needing the choke on to run.
Are you getting fuel to flow from the cylinder petcock(s) after you pull or crank it with it not starting?

That might tell you how much or if you are getting fuel to the cylinders...keep us posted.
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Sat, Sep 24, 2011 3:33 AM
johnstone
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Reply to Arthropod:
There's a jet in the bottom of the carb bowl that is easily clogged. Remove the top off the carb. Soak the gas out of the bowl with a rag and then blow some compressed air in that jet. Blow in all the passages you see while you're at it. While off check the float level (top of float flipped over and measure from edge of metal to bottom of float). Don't have my book with me, but it's about an inch. Probably already a thread on this site that covers carb rebuild. I have four D2's and they are all different how the pony will start. One likes some choke. One no choke. etc.

If I am remembering correctly, that jet in the bottom clogged does give a symptom of needing the choke on to run.
Thanks for all the replies...I'm really not that concerned with the pony only running with the choke on , it's always been that way. What I would like to correct is that it will ONLY idle...give it a little throttle and it dies. while it is idling if I spray a shot of ether in the carb it revs right up. I guess at a minimum I'll be pulling the top off the carb and see what I can clean or open up in there. Thanks again, John
1954 D47U, 1957 D69U, 1987 JD 950
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Sat, Sep 24, 2011 3:56 AM
boaterri
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Reply to johnstone:
Thanks for all the replies...I'm really not that concerned with the pony only running with the choke on , it's always been that way. What I would like to correct is that it will ONLY idle...give it a little throttle and it dies. while it is idling if I spray a shot of ether in the carb it revs right up. I guess at a minimum I'll be pulling the top off the carb and see what I can clean or open up in there. Thanks again, John
I have had good luck cleaning outboard motor and chain saw carbs by disassembling them and giving them in an overnight soak in mineral spirits followed by a swim in the ultrasonic cleaner again with mineral spirits. I did not pull any of the plugs for the hidden passages, just the easily removable parts.

Good luck,

Rick
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Sat, Sep 24, 2011 8:30 AM
Colby
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Reply to boaterri:
I have had good luck cleaning outboard motor and chain saw carbs by disassembling them and giving them in an overnight soak in mineral spirits followed by a swim in the ultrasonic cleaner again with mineral spirits. I did not pull any of the plugs for the hidden passages, just the easily removable parts.

Good luck,

Rick
All great info here but one area in my D4 Pony motor that gave me a big problem was the needle & seat. Make sure it isn't sticking or has dirt plugging the inlet off. The original Cat needles were aluminum and seldom stick but most aftermarket ones are rubber tipped and are OK for a year or two but will eventually give trouble like mine did. I found an old aluminum needle and never had any problems since. The aluminum needles may not seal quite as well as the rubber but you should shut the fuel off when not running anyway to eliminate any possible flooding.
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Sat, Sep 24, 2011 12:12 PM
johnstone
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Reply to Colby:
All great info here but one area in my D4 Pony motor that gave me a big problem was the needle & seat. Make sure it isn't sticking or has dirt plugging the inlet off. The original Cat needles were aluminum and seldom stick but most aftermarket ones are rubber tipped and are OK for a year or two but will eventually give trouble like mine did. I found an old aluminum needle and never had any problems since. The aluminum needles may not seal quite as well as the rubber but you should shut the fuel off when not running anyway to eliminate any possible flooding.
I removed the cover off of the fuel bowl...there was about 1/2 inch of fuel in there and a little sediment. Stuck a couple paper towels in there and got all the fuel out. In the center of the bottom of the bowl was the compensator jet...I put a screwdriver on it but it would not come loose. I blew some compressed air in it and also blew some air in the main jet....they were the onle 2 openings inside the fuel bowl. While I was in there I also checked out the float and all seemed ok....the needle valve was going up and down as the float moved up and down. I also checked the main jet adjusting screw and it was moving the main jet needle up and down as you turned the screw in and out. Put it all back together and after a bit of cranking to get fuel back in the system it fired up.Wow....no more choke needed it runs fine with the choke fully open, and the throttle control works like it should....even though it will not idle as low as it used to.
Thanks for all the help you guys gave me. Last night after reading many posts about pony carbs in the archives I was seriously thinking that I was going to have to pull the carb,soak it and rebuild it. I'm glad I did not jump the gun by starting the time consuming job of removing the carb, but first tried the simple things you guys suggested. John
1954 D47U, 1957 D69U, 1987 JD 950
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Sun, Sep 25, 2011 2:08 AM
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