Had same problem with my D4 7U, crankcase oil draining from the dry clutch housing. First thought I had leaking rear main seal. Was told by local cat service department that there is not a rear seal but it is an "oil slinger" type seal. I was getting diesel in the crankcase and thinning the oil to the point that it was getting past the oil slinger. I have not had a chance to fix things yet but plan to replace seals between filter housing and injector pump to solve the diesel in crankcase problem first. Will also probably not use a multi viscosity oil in the future. This is my first experience with this so only going on what I was told by the cat people concerning the oil slinger.
Had same problem with my D4 7U, crankcase oil draining from the dry clutch housing. First thought I had leaking rear main seal. Was told by local cat service department that there is not a rear seal but it is an "oil slinger" type seal. I was getting diesel in the crankcase and thinning the oil to the point that it was getting past the oil slinger. I have not had a chance to fix things yet but plan to replace seals between filter housing and injector pump to solve the diesel in crankcase problem first. Will also probably not use a multi viscosity oil in the future. This is my first experience with this so only going on what I was told by the cat people concerning the oil slinger.
Ah yes and the issue of the rear seal has been covered before and there was a fix provided by Cat which requires the machine to be split to install the lipped seal. This is needed when working on steep slopes to prevent the sump emptying into the bellhousing - as I found out when working a dam face😞
The seal is still available but you need to be seated in the recovery position when asking the price!!
If you have fuel diluting the crankcase oil, unless you are using a single weight oil for extreme heat (and are in normal temps), the diesel is going to ruin the viscosity about as soon as if you were using multi weight oil.
We usually get pretty opinionated about oil on here, but I think we can all agree that you must fix the cause whenever your engine oil level is increasing. I have always heard that an engine that "does not use any oil" must be getting some fuel into the crankcase, most likely from unburned fuel making it past the rings, but possible to have small leaks from other sources.
called "Balzone"(?) recommended for repairs in the CAT Parts Supply catalog. It is an expensive super strong epoxy that is even recommended for replacing lost material as it supposedly sets up stronger than Steel(?)
Did you give any thought to having an Engine Machine Shop pin the block?
Depending on the direction and length of the crack along with skill level of Brazing, I would not rule out the 2 above ideas.
I would NOT recommend Arc Welding unless you had a way to heat it and cool it slowly. Yes, there are a dozen techniques for Welding Cast materials, BUT you may only have one shot at getting this one right without cracking during repair!
As far as Oil?
Lots of people run Multi-Weights but CAT does recommend running a Straight Grade.
A good welder can braze the block to last a lifetime - have worked on many a working engine brazed when I was still in diapers.
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