D4-7u

The d4 stering cluch are dry and you refil the final drive by the two filler plugs ,on each side back belhousing .

Hello Marcus, and welcome to the forum. Both transmission and finals take 80W90 gear oil.

You didn't say if there was any water in the clutch compartments, or how much. Have you driven the D4 yet?

As far as the right steering clutch, take off the plate under the seat and check for any movement in the linkage. One of the things that freezes up is the pivot bearing. You'll see the top ends of them in the outboard compartment after you get the cover plate off. That will have the effect of locking (or almost) up the steering clutch lever. Also, the throwout bearing that slides on the clutch cross shaft to disengage the steering clutch will sometimes freeze up. Penetrating oil, time and continued working of the lever will usually free 'em up.

I can't find a good picture of the unit, hopefully someone else can post one.

[quote="ol'_Grump"]Hello Marcus, and welcome to the forum. Both transmission and finals take 80W90 gear oil.

You didn't say if there was any water in the clutch compartments, or how much. Have you driven the D4 yet?

As far as the right steering clutch, take off the plate under the seat and check for any movement in the linkage. One of the things that freezes up is the pivot bearing. You'll see the top ends of them in the outboard compartment after you get the cover plate off. That will have the effect of locking (or almost) up the steering clutch lever. Also, the throwout bearing that slides on the clutch cross shaft to disengage the steering clutch will sometimes freeze up. Penetrating oil, time and continued working of the lever will usually free 'em up.

I can't find a good picture of the unit, hopefully someone else can post one.[/quote]

No, i have not yet driven it, because i'm not yet sure of what i drained.. the water came out of the two plugs with internal hexdrive just beside the ones for final drives, and yes there was rather much... 😞 Is it so that i've drained the clutch compartments? And in that case i guess the clutches has been under water, wich normally doesn't do them any good...?

One nice thing is that the engine seem to run perfect, accept for a major oil leak somewhere near the oilfilter... i shut it off before finding the leak...! 😊
I'll come back with some photos....!

Thanks...!

Lost pinion,

The first thing I'd do is to locate and fix the leak near the oil filter you spoke of, then fill the transmission with a mix of oil and diesel. Start the engine and leave it in neutral but engage the main clutch and let it run for a while to rinse the transmission. Then drain the transmission and final drive housing (rear most plug on centerline) and refill with 80-W90.

Start it up again and move it while trying the steering clutches. With luck, it will steer. IF one is stuck, the next step would be to dump a couple of gallons of diesel into the stuck one and let it sit for a few days, then retry it. Hopefully, it will release. Repeat several times, letting it sit a day or so between times.

If that fails it sounds like time to pull the transmission lid, remove the clutches and take 'em apart. The Serviceman's Reference book will show how to do this.

Good luck,
Paul

[quote="ol'_Grump"]Lost pinion,

The first thing I'd do is to locate and fix the leak near the oil filter you spoke of, then fill the transmission with a mix of oil and diesel. Start the engine and leave it in neutral but engage the main clutch and let it run for a while to rinse the transmission. Then drain the transmission and final drive housing (rear most plug on centerline) and refill with 80-W90.

Start it up again and move it while trying the steering clutches. With luck, it will steer. IF one is stuck, the next step would be to dump a couple of gallons of diesel into the stuck one and let it sit for a few days, then retry it. Hopefully, it will release. Repeat several times, letting it sit a day or so between times.

If that fails it sounds like time to pull the transmission lid, remove the clutches and take 'em apart. The Serviceman's Reference book will show how to do this.

Good luck,
Paul[/quote]

Now i've driven the D4..!! 😄 I adjusted the steering clutches and brakes, there were a big dead travel in R.H brake pedal and L.H steering clutch lever.
The water i drained stood in the steeringclutch compartment, the clucthes did however disengage after a while..😊

Now i'm gathering strength and patience to adjust the tracks, as they are a bit loose... Took away the covers on the right and it didn't look that easy..😊 If anyone of u have some good advice i't would be appreciated!!

Thank u all for the help so far..! 😊
//Marcus

Pictures of it...

Hej Marcus,
where are you located in Sweden? My brother-in-law's parents live in Arvika (the brother-in-law and his wife (sister of my wife)) are currently up in Svelgen NO for a couple of years but I think they might move back to Arvika or somewhere nearby as his parents are getting on in age. I also have another brother-in-law (???) down in Malmo.
Anyway, my nephew in Svelgen is 2 years old and LOVES anything yellow that works in the dirt : )
I have a D2-3J4086 (not running) that he went and "checked" everyday when they were visiting over Thanksgiving.
I wouldn't mind getting back to Sverige soon as I have a hydro electric power plant to restore and the manufacturer was KMW, down in Kristinehamn. They still have drawings apparently so if I can get a copy of them, I can get new parts made.

Looks like you have a nice tractor there and it didn't seem to take much to get going. Mine, on the other hand, is going to require a complete dismantling and restoration. Ah, well....

Cheers,
Neil.

Lost pinion,

I'm glad you got it going and the clutches weren't stuck that badly. To adjust the tracks, notice the idler bracket and where it's split on the back where the large adjusting nut is. That bracket has a couple of cross bolts (pinch bolts), loosen them and then turn the adjusting nut. It may be frozen up so soak it with a good penetrating oil and whack it a few times with a fairly large hammer. If that doesn't break it loose, it might require some heat and more oil. I've been known to put a come-a-long between the idler and blade to pull the idler forward to take the pressure off the adjusting nut. When you get the tracks adjusted, tighten the cross bolts and you're good to go.

If the sprockets and idlers are worn badly, you might run out of adjustment room before the tracks are totally tight. They can be rebuilt, but it's more of a case of which you have more of, money or time.

From your pictures, it looks good. Is this going to be a restoration or a work Cat? The 4's are hard to beat as an all around machine, plus they're just flat fun!