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D4 6U water problem any ideas?

D4 6U water problem any ideas?

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57jacob
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I have been haveing water problems with my D4 6U. I fill the radiator up put the cap on and it instantly will push 2 gallons out the over flow tube. I've been thinking a head gasket. But then I noticed that the fan belt was really loose. So i thighten the pully half a turn. I filled the radiator back up and went back to clearing our fence line didnt loose any water but a a drop or 2 here and there. Is this possible that it was just that the water pump was not spinning fast enough? Maybe I dont have a head gasket problem? Am i just hoping for the best? Can any one help?
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Mon, Nov 19, 2012 8:33 AM
Ray54
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Could be you fixed the problem. On the u series Cats always check the pre- combustion chambers first.They are easier to unscrew when the head is still bolted down not moving around.The chamber will rust wholes some time or the cooper gasket will go bad.Generally the Cat heads are really tough.Not that there is anything on a 60 year old machine that cannot fail.
Have D6 of the same vintage had temperature gauge that was failing(NEVER READ OVER 190 IN A PAN OF BOILING WATER),got very hot and push water out after this.Pulled head gasket ?? no cracks ,had it surfaced put it back on same problem.Pre-combustion chamber fixed it.
In some conditions it is very hard to keep radiator clean so watch it closely.Hope all goes well with your project.
Ray
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Mon, Nov 19, 2012 11:38 AM
57jacob
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Reply to Ray54:
Could be you fixed the problem. On the u series Cats always check the pre- combustion chambers first.They are easier to unscrew when the head is still bolted down not moving around.The chamber will rust wholes some time or the cooper gasket will go bad.Generally the Cat heads are really tough.Not that there is anything on a 60 year old machine that cannot fail.
Have D6 of the same vintage had temperature gauge that was failing(NEVER READ OVER 190 IN A PAN OF BOILING WATER),got very hot and push water out after this.Pulled head gasket ?? no cracks ,had it surfaced put it back on same problem.Pre-combustion chamber fixed it.
In some conditions it is very hard to keep radiator clean so watch it closely.Hope all goes well with your project.
Ray
Ray
thank you for replying to my thread. I still might go ahead and check the pre-combustion chambers. when yours had this problem did it have any other problems besides pushing water out? any smoking or load poping sounds such as if it was misfiring? any more help you could give me would be great. I really enjoy running this old Cat lets you know how it really was like to work a real CAT😆 i just want to fix the few small problems it has and keep playing in the dirt with it.

thanks
jacob of liberty, in
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Tue, Nov 20, 2012 10:33 AM
ccjersey
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I would delay pulling PC chambers until you know you need to. Can be unlucky and pull the threads out of the head as they come out.

If they need to come out, then get out your breaker bar and go for it, but make sure first.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Tue, Nov 20, 2012 8:36 PM
neil
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Reply to ccjersey:
I would delay pulling PC chambers until you know you need to. Can be unlucky and pull the threads out of the head as they come out.

If they need to come out, then get out your breaker bar and go for it, but make sure first.
Hi ccjersey,
is there a best approach for assessing the precombustion chambers? I can see if they're really shot the water leakage would be obvious but what if they're close but not quite leaking? It'd be a pain to pull the head (as I need to replace a liner), notice that they aren't leaking, refit the head and then a couple of months down the road have one of them start leaking - I'm guessing though there's no easy way?
By the way, on another thread I mentioned my D23J ring gear was straight, not helical. I was wrong (duh - not the first time, sure won't be the last : ). I got mixed up because I was looking at the pony starter at the same time. Apologies for any head-scratching that went on.
Cheers,
Neil.
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Wed, Nov 21, 2012 1:01 AM
57jacob
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Reply to neil:
Hi ccjersey,
is there a best approach for assessing the precombustion chambers? I can see if they're really shot the water leakage would be obvious but what if they're close but not quite leaking? It'd be a pain to pull the head (as I need to replace a liner), notice that they aren't leaking, refit the head and then a couple of months down the road have one of them start leaking - I'm guessing though there's no easy way?
By the way, on another thread I mentioned my D23J ring gear was straight, not helical. I was wrong (duh - not the first time, sure won't be the last : ). I got mixed up because I was looking at the pony starter at the same time. Apologies for any head-scratching that went on.
Cheers,
Neil.
so i started the old D4 again and once again its back to spitting water out the over flow tube. Tighting the fan belt didnt fix the problem bummer. I decided i want this problem to be fixed. I pulled the top water pipe off and took out the water regulator, to find the part # 6f9467 is this the right one? my parts book says its part # 8f8817 which one should i go with. but i really dont think that this is my problem. When i bought the D4 the pony motor was bad so i took it off and closed off the water ports and put electric start on it, i was thinking that i messed up the flow of water but then remembered it was spitting water out before all of this... So anyone have any suggestions?

my serial # 6U8927sp
i took a pic. of of the water reulator that came out of it. The pic of the seat is i know not orignal but i wanted something different so i took the wood and cut out new i took the arm rest and maid them thicker and turn them upright and then my mom maid the rest and did the custom cat letters
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Wed, Nov 21, 2012 9:44 AM
Jack
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Reply to 57jacob:
so i started the old D4 again and once again its back to spitting water out the over flow tube. Tighting the fan belt didnt fix the problem bummer. I decided i want this problem to be fixed. I pulled the top water pipe off and took out the water regulator, to find the part # 6f9467 is this the right one? my parts book says its part # 8f8817 which one should i go with. but i really dont think that this is my problem. When i bought the D4 the pony motor was bad so i took it off and closed off the water ports and put electric start on it, i was thinking that i messed up the flow of water but then remembered it was spitting water out before all of this... So anyone have any suggestions?

my serial # 6U8927sp
i took a pic. of of the water reulator that came out of it. The pic of the seat is i know not orignal but i wanted something different so i took the wood and cut out new i took the arm rest and maid them thicker and turn them upright and then my mom maid the rest and did the custom cat letters
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Did you drop that regulator into a pan of hot water and see if it would open? At what temp? Always check the easy stuff first. Sometimes you get lucky.
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Wed, Nov 21, 2012 10:41 AM
snowshoveler
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Reply to Jack:
Did you drop that regulator into a pan of hot water and see if it would open? At what temp? Always check the easy stuff first. Sometimes you get lucky.
Love the seat.
Nice job on that.
Chris
193? d4400 cat powerunit
1950 john deere M
1959 international t5 crawler
1977 powerking 1216 tractor
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Wed, Nov 21, 2012 11:15 PM
STEPHEN
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Reply to snowshoveler:
Love the seat.
Nice job on that.
Chris
You say it pushes out water INSTANTLY after starting? to me this = not the thermostat but precom chambers or head/gasket problems.
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Wed, Nov 21, 2012 11:55 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to STEPHEN:
You say it pushes out water INSTANTLY after starting? to me this = not the thermostat but precom chambers or head/gasket problems.
Regulator is a good replacement number.

A shame you went to the "hack up the dash" starter conversion.
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Thu, Nov 22, 2012 12:38 AM
Ray54
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Reply to STEPHEN:
You say it pushes out water INSTANTLY after starting? to me this = not the thermostat but precom chambers or head/gasket problems.
I can only go from my experiences which is with 9u D6's.But I believe the D4's are very similar.The Cat heads are very tough,they are not known for cracking,but the D6 heads are very long and will warp so they need to be surfaced generally when you put a new head gasket on.Which means the pre-cups must be removed anyway.Not having worked on a D4 with a shorter head maybe it is different. And if your luck is like mine it could be whole in a liner from corrosion.
I have been having problem with D6 pushing water and it is defiantly a pre-cup and using a real copper gasket rather than the steel ones with copper paint Cat is selling helps.It did get to were there was a little miss at start up until it warmed up.Warned it up after new gaskets and looked good but after a days real work it is showing a little foam again.The guy that has been doing machine work says he has no way to surface this area of the head.Oh well that is the fun of this older equipment.
Ray
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Thu, Nov 22, 2012 1:33 AM
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