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D4 6U Steering Brakes.

D4 6U Steering Brakes.

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Jf3504x4
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Just bought a 6U yesterday and thanks to TractorDon the Cat runs excellent. My question is, being a novice at this stuff, when I took the inspection plate off to do adjust the brakes I noticed two tabs off to the side, not sure what they are, just dangling loose at one end. Is this normal? ๐Ÿ˜• I know I didnt do a great job of describing it but im hoping somebody will understand my question.

Also, Is it supposed to be all oily under that inspection cover? I have a feeling its not and that might be why the tractors a bit hard to turn?????? Anyway, Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Fri, Nov 23, 2007 12:25 AM
Oil Slick
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Fri, Nov 23, 2007 2:36 AM
ccjersey
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Reply to Oil Slick:
350, the BB's are great for helping out newbies with problems but you need to get some Cat manuals. Don't buy the cheap after market ones, just be patient and you can find original ones on ebay.

http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?sofocus=bs&sbrftog=1&from=R10&_trksid=m37&satitle=caterpillar+d4+manual&sacat=-1%26catref%3DC6&sargn=-1%26saslc%3D2&sadis=200&fpos=ZIP%2FPostal&sabfmts=1&saobfmts=insif&ftrt=1&ftrv=1&saprclo=&saprchi=&fsop=1%26fsoo%3D1&coaction=compare&copagenum=1&coentrypage=search
The oily ones don't stick so quickly.๐Ÿ˜Š

You probably should check/adjust the clutches so they fully release and also adjust the brakes so you have the correct travel, and if that doesn't do it, then you can try to wash the clutch housings and remove the oily mess.

You can plug the housings and fill it full enough with kerosene or diesel to wash the accumulated oil out of there as the clutches rotate around. The manuals recommend just driving back and forth without pulling a clutch so the fluid doesn't take contaminants between the clutch plates.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time๐Ÿ˜„
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Fri, Nov 23, 2007 3:11 AM
Jf3504x4
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Reply to ccjersey:
The oily ones don't stick so quickly.๐Ÿ˜Š

You probably should check/adjust the clutches so they fully release and also adjust the brakes so you have the correct travel, and if that doesn't do it, then you can try to wash the clutch housings and remove the oily mess.

You can plug the housings and fill it full enough with kerosene or diesel to wash the accumulated oil out of there as the clutches rotate around. The manuals recommend just driving back and forth without pulling a clutch so the fluid doesn't take contaminants between the clutch plates.
Great. Thanks both of you guys for the replies. Im going to get the manuals asap. CCJERSEY If I fill the housing with diesel will it get into the tube where the oil cup is? If so will it hurt anything? Thanks!๐Ÿ˜•
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Sat, Nov 24, 2007 2:08 AM
TractorDon
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Reply to Jf3504x4:
Great. Thanks both of you guys for the replies. Im going to get the manuals asap. CCJERSEY If I fill the housing with diesel will it get into the tube where the oil cup is? If so will it hurt anything? Thanks!๐Ÿ˜•
Hi Jim, pleasure meeting you and your Dad the other day. Hope Billy was fair with you. Give me a call anytime, you have my number I believe.
I wouldn't worry a whole lot, I have spent some time on this tractor actually working ground and I am sure there is nothing serious going on with the frictions or brakes. The loose tabs????? Are you looking from the top cover or the rear inspection covers?
A good cleaning and adjustment is a very good idea as CCjersey mentioned.
After years of adding oil to the release collars, there will always be oil inside that compartment. Of course that does not mean that there is some seal leakage also. Get your manuals, good advise here on the BB and feel free to get a hold of me also. Thanks, Don
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Sat, Nov 24, 2007 4:46 AM
ccjersey
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Reply to TractorDon:
Hi Jim, pleasure meeting you and your Dad the other day. Hope Billy was fair with you. Give me a call anytime, you have my number I believe.
I wouldn't worry a whole lot, I have spent some time on this tractor actually working ground and I am sure there is nothing serious going on with the frictions or brakes. The loose tabs????? Are you looking from the top cover or the rear inspection covers?
A good cleaning and adjustment is a very good idea as CCjersey mentioned.
After years of adding oil to the release collars, there will always be oil inside that compartment. Of course that does not mean that there is some seal leakage also. Get your manuals, good advise here on the BB and feel free to get a hold of me also. Thanks, Don
If all you are really interested in is the brakes, you can fill the housing only high enough to submerge the bottom of the brake drum and let it carrry the fuel up and over the drum as you apply and release the brake. I don't think a little diesel in the oil tubes/funnels will hurt, but I would re-oil after the wash.

In my limited experience, adjustment will do the most good, but if it doesn't get it, then a wash is the next logical step unless you can see or find broken linings on the band.

You have to have plenty of free travel on the brake pedal. Once you adjust it so it catches about mid stroke, then you apply the brake, block it down tight or have someone hold it and go underneath and snug up the support bolt and then loosen off 1 1/2 turns as I remember. Lock it down there.

An Operators and maintenance manual has this all written down with pictures of all the important bits and measurements.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time๐Ÿ˜„
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Sat, Nov 24, 2007 10:06 AM
Jf3504x4
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Reply to ccjersey:
If all you are really interested in is the brakes, you can fill the housing only high enough to submerge the bottom of the brake drum and let it carrry the fuel up and over the drum as you apply and release the brake. I don't think a little diesel in the oil tubes/funnels will hurt, but I would re-oil after the wash.

In my limited experience, adjustment will do the most good, but if it doesn't get it, then a wash is the next logical step unless you can see or find broken linings on the band.

You have to have plenty of free travel on the brake pedal. Once you adjust it so it catches about mid stroke, then you apply the brake, block it down tight or have someone hold it and go underneath and snug up the support bolt and then loosen off 1 1/2 turns as I remember. Lock it down there.

An Operators and maintenance manual has this all written down with pictures of all the important bits and measurements.
Thanks ccjersey. Im going to do that next weekend. With the price of diesel It may be cheaper just to buy a new tractor ๐Ÿ˜‰

TractorDon, Yes I think Billy was fair. Im having a lot of fun on the Cat ๐Ÿ˜Š I know theres nothing really wrong with the brakes, but being the way I am I always think something can be even better. Being a perfectionist is really getting to be a pain in my own a$$. ๐Ÿ˜„ As for the "tabs" They are off to the side on each side of the case if you are looking down from the top inspection cover.

One other thing; Billy mentioned that you would sell me the fuel lines to the pony motor if you came across any spares???????? They would be greatly appreciated.
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Mon, Nov 26, 2007 6:03 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Jf3504x4:
Thanks ccjersey. Im going to do that next weekend. With the price of diesel It may be cheaper just to buy a new tractor ๐Ÿ˜‰

TractorDon, Yes I think Billy was fair. Im having a lot of fun on the Cat ๐Ÿ˜Š I know theres nothing really wrong with the brakes, but being the way I am I always think something can be even better. Being a perfectionist is really getting to be a pain in my own a$$. ๐Ÿ˜„ As for the "tabs" They are off to the side on each side of the case if you are looking down from the top inspection cover.

One other thing; Billy mentioned that you would sell me the fuel lines to the pony motor if you came across any spares???????? They would be greatly appreciated.
If the "tabs" are one in each rear corner to the outside they are probably the spring anchors for the steering clutch booster springs.....and if they are just dangling they are probably either disconnected from the springs or the springs are missing/broken.
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Mon, Nov 26, 2007 6:18 AM
Jf3504x4
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Reply to Old Magnet:
If the "tabs" are one in each rear corner to the outside they are probably the spring anchors for the steering clutch booster springs.....and if they are just dangling they are probably either disconnected from the springs or the springs are missing/broken.
Bingo. I think you nailed it OldMagnet! Thats what they are. Do you have any Idea where I can find a set? I know theyre probably not necessary but if it makes the pull easier I'd like to have em. Thanks!
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Mon, Nov 26, 2007 7:00 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Jf3504x4:
Bingo. I think you nailed it OldMagnet! Thats what they are. Do you have any Idea where I can find a set? I know theyre probably not necessary but if it makes the pull easier I'd like to have em. Thanks!
Try Cat, the pt. # for the springs is 9B1454.
You can probably find them used but they a usually well worn.
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Mon, Nov 26, 2007 7:34 AM
TractorDon
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Try Cat, the pt. # for the springs is 9B1454.
You can probably find them used but they a usually well worn.
Nothing wrong with being a perfectionist Jim if you can afford it๐Ÿ˜„ OM got what I was thinking it might have been. Installing them there springs is another story๐Ÿ˜ฎ Don
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Tue, Nov 27, 2007 8:51 AM
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