ACMOC
Login
ACMOC
d4 6-U pony engine running how long can i

d4 6-U pony engine running how long can i

Showing 1 to 9 of 9 results
bursitis
Topic Author
Offline
Member
Send a private message to bursitis
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,085
Thank you received: 4
how long can i safely run the pony on my 6U D4 without spinning the big engine? will the pony overheat unless the water pump on the big engine is spinning?? on my old John Deere i could idle the pony for extended periods during cold weather to warm the water jacket.

D46U straight blade,D46U cat angle blade,allis chalmers AD4 grader and Khoering 404 dragline. D4C 40A,D4 2T and scraper.

Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Fri, Dec 22, 2017 1:18 AM
TOGNOT
Offline
Send a private message to TOGNOT
Posts: 725
Thank you received: 0
I have worked on only a few old cats- but on everyone -EVERY cavity I could reach was full of sludge : pony pinion, water jackets around water pump, and the cylinder heads and block on the pony itself.

On my D6 the pony ran good but after I literally burned my fingers on the cylinder head petcock after running it I looked closer. As GP stated, the head water jackets were FULL of crud and the block was too.

If you don't know the history of the tractor, it costs you only time to remove the pony heads and spend 30 minutes with a pressure washer blasting out the pony block. You can copper coat and reuse the head gaskets. Some ponys have their own water pump.

Good luck !
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Fri, Dec 22, 2017 3:55 AM
ccjersey
Offline
Send a private message to ccjersey
Posts: 4,422
Thank you received: 0
By all means go after the pony water jacket and clean it as well as possible but when it comes to the main, be a little gentler at least around the base of the sleeves. I washed away too much sludge and created a leak on a D6. I was flushing in the block drain hole and I think the jet of water rushing in cleaned the area around a sleeve or two and the bottom seals began leaking FAST. In the end I was able to use a stopleak product and sealed it back up but it cost me some time and a couple oil changes not to mention a few more grey hairs in my head!
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Fri, Dec 22, 2017 8:43 AM
ronm
Offline
Send a private message to ronm
Posts: 1,143
Thank you received: 0
Reply to ccjersey:
By all means go after the pony water jacket and clean it as well as possible but when it comes to the main, be a little gentler at least around the base of the sleeves. I washed away too much sludge and created a leak on a D6. I was flushing in the block drain hole and I think the jet of water rushing in cleaned the area around a sleeve or two and the bottom seals began leaking FAST. In the end I was able to use a stopleak product and sealed it back up but it cost me some time and a couple oil changes not to mention a few more grey hairs in my head!
The V4 pony motor on the John Deeres has its own water pump. So it circulates even without the big motor spinning.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Fri, Dec 22, 2017 10:29 AM
Dozer Doug
Offline
Send a private message to Dozer Doug
Posts: 67
Thank you received: 1
Reply to ronm:
The V4 pony motor on the John Deeres has its own water pump. So it circulates even without the big motor spinning.
The D318 pony has its own water pump also. Running a pony with its own pump for extended periods should not be a problem.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sun, Dec 24, 2017 12:23 AM
bursitis
Topic Author
Offline
Member
Send a private message to bursitis
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,085
Thank you received: 4
Reply to Dozer Doug:
The D318 pony has its own water pump also. Running a pony with its own pump for extended periods should not be a problem.


so the pony on the D315 doesn't have its own water pump but the pony on a D318 of the same year does???

D46U straight blade,D46U cat angle blade,allis chalmers AD4 grader and Khoering 404 dragline. D4C 40A,D4 2T and scraper.

Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sun, Dec 24, 2017 1:32 AM
STEPHEN
Offline
Send a private message to STEPHEN
Posts: 2,461
Thank you received: 1
Reply to bursitis:


so the pony on the D315 doesn't have its own water pump but the pony on a D318 of the same year does???


Yes that is correct
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sun, Dec 24, 2017 1:57 AM
bursitis
Topic Author
Offline
Member
Send a private message to bursitis
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,085
Thank you received: 4
Reply to STEPHEN:


Yes that is correct
Thanks. yes i checked my parts book and couldn't find any reference to a water pump. also went to the operators manual for the detailed starting instructions for both engines. there was no mention of the pony overheating but the manual mentioned several times to let the pony warm up until the lubricating oil could properly lubricate the pony before attempting to start the diesel. the manual also states that as soon as the pony was warm to get ti to cranking the diesel under compression until there was enough heat generated through the manifold and compression to start the big engine. the manual stated that several minutes could be normal under normal circumstances. there is also a method similar but has minor difference for cold weather operation.

D46U straight blade,D46U cat angle blade,allis chalmers AD4 grader and Khoering 404 dragline. D4C 40A,D4 2T and scraper.

Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sun, Dec 24, 2017 2:13 AM
neil
Offline
Member
Moderator
Admin
Super Admin
Send a private message to neil
Posts: 7,223
Thank you received: 58
Reply to bursitis:
Thanks. yes i checked my parts book and couldn't find any reference to a water pump. also went to the operators manual for the detailed starting instructions for both engines. there was no mention of the pony overheating but the manual mentioned several times to let the pony warm up until the lubricating oil could properly lubricate the pony before attempting to start the diesel. the manual also states that as soon as the pony was warm to get ti to cranking the diesel under compression until there was enough heat generated through the manifold and compression to start the big engine. the manual stated that several minutes could be normal under normal circumstances. there is also a method similar but has minor difference for cold weather operation.
It doesn't take long to warm the pony enough in order to start cranking the main engine. Depends on ambient temperature but it wouldn't be more than a minute in a lot of cases, less where it's warm. There's cranking the main engine without compression and then there's cranking it with compression. After the pony has warmed, then crank the main without compression until at least the main's oil pressure comes up - that requires less pony power than cranking under compression unless it's super cold, and enables the pony to warm up even more, before you use full pony power to crank under compression. You just need to figure out what's best for the conditions and your tractor, but extended idle warming up is not recommended by engine manufacturers.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sun, Dec 24, 2017 2:53 AM
bursitis
Topic Author
Offline
Member
Send a private message to bursitis
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,085
Thank you received: 4
Reply to neil:
It doesn't take long to warm the pony enough in order to start cranking the main engine. Depends on ambient temperature but it wouldn't be more than a minute in a lot of cases, less where it's warm. There's cranking the main engine without compression and then there's cranking it with compression. After the pony has warmed, then crank the main without compression until at least the main's oil pressure comes up - that requires less pony power than cranking under compression unless it's super cold, and enables the pony to warm up even more, before you use full pony power to crank under compression. You just need to figure out what's best for the conditions and your tractor, but extended idle warming up is not recommended by engine manufacturers.


it was in the mid 30's f today. i changed the oil in my pony to 15w40 started the pony up and let it run until i could feel warmth on the side,"about 45 seconds". then i engaged the pinion and spun the diesel decompressed until it had oil pressure. i then gave it full compression and let it run for probably another 30 seconds,gave it fuel and it fired right up. it took a lot less time than i imagined it would at that temp.

D46U straight blade,D46U cat angle blade,allis chalmers AD4 grader and Khoering 404 dragline. D4C 40A,D4 2T and scraper.

Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sun, Dec 24, 2017 8:47 AM
Showing 1 to 9 of 9 results
YouTube Video Placeholder

Follow Us on Social Media

Our channel highlights machines from the earliest Holt and Best track-type tractors, equipment from the start of Caterpillar in 1925, up to units built in the mid-1960s.

Upcoming Events

Lake Goldsmith 127th Rally

Chapter Nineteen

| 1234 Carngham - Lake Goldsmith Road ​Lake Goldsmith VIC 3373

HIGRO JUBILEUMEDITIE!

| “De Domelaar” Gebr .V.d. Heiden Domelaarsweg 3 7475 MARKELO Netherlands

Chapter 2 AGM

Chapter Two

| Folds Farm, Godshillwood, Fordingbridge, Hampshire, SP6 2LU
View Calendar
ACMOC

Antique Caterpillar
Machinery Owners Club

1115 Madison St NE # 1117
Salem, OR 97301

[email protected]

Terms & Privacy
Website developed by AdCo

Testimonials

"I also joined a year ago. had been on here a couple of times as a non-member and found the info very helpful so I got a one year subscription (not very expensive at all) to try it out. I really like all the resources on here so I just got a three year. I think its a very small price for what you can get out of this site."
-Jason N

Join Today!