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joshjd37
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Hello all! Just picked up a D4 2T today. it only shows 933 hours on the clock. has very good undercarriage but has threw a rod which damaged the engine block. does anybody have know were I might find a good used D4400 block? also does not want to roll at all transmission in neutral but I noticed the cover in front of the seat for adjusting the brakes and steering clutches has been left off. would this also allow the transmission and final drives to fill with water and rust up solid?[attachment=35096]20160416_133040.jpg[/attachment]
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Sun, Apr 17, 2016 11:53 PM
Mike Meyer
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Congratulations on your new D4, I'd be a little leery of the supposed low hours for what would have almost certainly been a WW2 era built tractor particularly if it has thrown a conrod, those hour meters can be difficult to read correctly and on older machines often quit working years ago.

When you say it wont move, is that after you cleaned all the dirt out of the tracks and bottom rollers because I suspect your track chain might be rusted solid where it has been laying in the dirt, there are fill and drain plugs on both final drives so you can easily check for water there if you make up a spanner out of a suitable sized bolt head or nut welded to a handle, same for the gearbox, almost undo the drain plug under the gearbox and see how much water drips out.

I'm usually wrong but it would be unlikely the gearbox crapped out and seized the exact same time the motor threw that rod, ask in the For Sale section for a D4400 block if you want to go down that path, I'd suggest you just buy a complete used running motor because repairing yours will cost bookoo bucks by the time you grind the crankshaft and find bearings, conrods and pistons, it threw a rod for a reason and the reason will have almost certainly been working on the other 3 conrods getting them ready to unload against the block, a good complete running motor could cost anywhere from $500-$1,500 would be my guess because guys in the USA were scrapping complete running D4's a few years back while scrap prices were $300 a ton.
Mike
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Mon, Apr 18, 2016 2:51 AM
STEPHEN
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Reply to Mike Meyer:
Congratulations on your new D4, I'd be a little leery of the supposed low hours for what would have almost certainly been a WW2 era built tractor particularly if it has thrown a conrod, those hour meters can be difficult to read correctly and on older machines often quit working years ago.

When you say it wont move, is that after you cleaned all the dirt out of the tracks and bottom rollers because I suspect your track chain might be rusted solid where it has been laying in the dirt, there are fill and drain plugs on both final drives so you can easily check for water there if you make up a spanner out of a suitable sized bolt head or nut welded to a handle, same for the gearbox, almost undo the drain plug under the gearbox and see how much water drips out.

I'm usually wrong but it would be unlikely the gearbox crapped out and seized the exact same time the motor threw that rod, ask in the For Sale section for a D4400 block if you want to go down that path, I'd suggest you just buy a complete used running motor because repairing yours will cost bookoo bucks by the time you grind the crankshaft and find bearings, conrods and pistons, it threw a rod for a reason and the reason will have almost certainly been working on the other 3 conrods getting them ready to unload against the block, a good complete running motor could cost anywhere from $500-$1,500 would be my guess because guys in the USA were scrapping complete running D4's a few years back while scrap prices were $300 a ton.
Mike
In my experience, covers removed = water = brake bands and linkages rusted to the drums. Loosen the brake adjustment and get the bands away from the drums. If you are trying to get it to roll, try hooking the chain around the track midways on top as that is twice the mechanical advantage as pulling from the drawbar.
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Mon, Apr 18, 2016 5:33 AM
jbernd56
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Reply to STEPHEN:
In my experience, covers removed = water = brake bands and linkages rusted to the drums. Loosen the brake adjustment and get the bands away from the drums. If you are trying to get it to roll, try hooking the chain around the track midways on top as that is twice the mechanical advantage as pulling from the drawbar.
I looked at that tractor for possible final drive parts for my 2T. If I remember the serial # right, I think it is about a 1945 model. Maybe 44, because of the Green tint it seems to have. I have a 34 model 2T, that I am redoing the steering clutches in right now. D2's and attachments seemed to be the bargain of the day at that auction. Good luck on the D4, we hope to see more pictures and progress reports.
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Mon, Apr 18, 2016 7:17 AM
joshjd37
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Reply to jbernd56:
I looked at that tractor for possible final drive parts for my 2T. If I remember the serial # right, I think it is about a 1945 model. Maybe 44, because of the Green tint it seems to have. I have a 34 model 2T, that I am redoing the steering clutches in right now. D2's and attachments seemed to be the bargain of the day at that auction. Good luck on the D4, we hope to see more pictures and progress reports.
Thanks for the replies guys!
Mike I did power wash all the dirt out of the tracks and oiled them up going to get it off the trailer and see if I can get it to budge.
Stephen I will do as you suggested and loosen off the brake bands. that's my first goal is to get the thing rolling and transmission to go into gears. than start searching for a good engine.

Mike I did save it from the scrapers wish I could have saved the twenty also.

It has a very good undercarriage no wear on the pins or bushings rollers like new. I do believe the hour meter is correct it is clear as new one. I think these old army surplus machines are usually always low hours. but not to say the army operators didn't abuse them. AKA thrown Rod.
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Mon, Apr 18, 2016 9:41 AM
joshjd37
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Reply to joshjd37:
Thanks for the replies guys!
Mike I did power wash all the dirt out of the tracks and oiled them up going to get it off the trailer and see if I can get it to budge.
Stephen I will do as you suggested and loosen off the brake bands. that's my first goal is to get the thing rolling and transmission to go into gears. than start searching for a good engine.

Mike I did save it from the scrapers wish I could have saved the twenty also.

It has a very good undercarriage no wear on the pins or bushings rollers like new. I do believe the hour meter is correct it is clear as new one. I think these old army surplus machines are usually always low hours. but not to say the army operators didn't abuse them. AKA thrown Rod.
Sorry jbernd56 that last reply was for you. Yes it is a 44 model I believe. I know the guys that got the 2 d2s. I didn't see how much the running one brought. a lot of good stuff there wish I could have got more but i think this D4 will keep me busy awhile.
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Mon, Apr 18, 2016 9:47 AM
Mike Meyer
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Reply to joshjd37:
Sorry jbernd56 that last reply was for you. Yes it is a 44 model I believe. I know the guys that got the 2 d2s. I didn't see how much the running one brought. a lot of good stuff there wish I could have got more but i think this D4 will keep me busy awhile.
Hi Josh, I'm working on a 1944 built D4 2T and a 1939 built D4 7J right now myself, both tractors have done a million hours particularly the 2T, I would say all the WW2 built D4's still in Australia have done big hours because they were so much better than anything else around for farming new ground, but they were expensive even secondhand so as soon as one farmer finished flogging it for 4 or 5,000 hours clearing scrub he would sell it off to someone else who gave it another good flogging for another 5,000 or 6,000 hours, who then sold it on to someone else, who sold it onto someone else, many tractors covering the entire length of our country being onsold from Tasmania or South Australia all the way up to Queensland 2,500 miles north.......

Have a close look at your brake pedals, if the grooves your boots push on are worn that is usually a good indicator of hours, my D4 has done so many hours it needs the pedals welded up and the grooves recut they are that worn, new Cats were almost impossible to buy privately during WW2 and during the war they worked hard, I did read somewhere that after the war a lot of them went through workshops to be fully rebuilt they were that worn and resprayed Cat yellow before being sold to private owners, so your tractor might potentially be on it's 2nd or third set of undercarriage, or as you say, it might been a genuine low hour machine that was unlucky, I hope that is the case.
Good luck with her
Mike
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Mon, Apr 18, 2016 10:22 AM
jbernd56
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Reply to joshjd37:
Sorry jbernd56 that last reply was for you. Yes it is a 44 model I believe. I know the guys that got the 2 d2s. I didn't see how much the running one brought. a lot of good stuff there wish I could have got more but i think this D4 will keep me busy awhile.


$2850.00 if I remember right. I was down the line waiting for the #2 terrace.
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Tue, Apr 19, 2016 8:16 AM
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