D3B 23Y 02567 3F1R need help about clutches wet or dry?

According to my sometimes right source wet clutches didn't come in until the D3C series.

The clutch discs from General Gear (Idaho) have proven to be good products.

Yes, there may be two different materials on the brake band but no reason a quality brake shop could not duplicate. Up to the owner to verify.

My 1987 D3B has wet clutches--there are those 1/4 inch plugs on the outboard side of the casing. The fill plugs are on top of the casing and had to remove the rear panel/battery compartment cover to fill the clutches.

Failure to turn when up to operating temp, may be low trans pressure. They require over 200 psi to release the clutches. These machines should turn with a light toe pressure on the peddal.
Later Bob

Failure to turn when up to operating temp, may be low trans pressure. They require over 200 psi to release the clutches. These machines should turn with a light toe pressure on the peddal.
Later Bob

[quote="bob"]Failure to turn when up to operating temp, may be low trans pressure. They require over 200 psi to release the clutches. These machines should turn with a light toe pressure on the peddal.
Later Bob[/quote]

Does just dandy with light toe pressure turning right. What, besides the left clutch control valve could change the hydraulic response of the left side so it would be radicaly different fronm thr right side? I already did the troubleshooting on the left, including the bearings and lincage/ band adjustment. No go.
I believe this machine was turned left for most of its life being used to mow with a bush hog around a hillside facility.
(I am the guy looking for 540 rpm gears for a Lindex PTO)
Thanks Bob

Well Jim, you have enough oil pressure to release the clutches. If the LH side is not releasing you should hear the engine load up before it eventually turns. If the engine doesn't load up then you might just need to pull the clutch, wash the drum and reline the brake. There is a hole in the steering clutch case outer walls to access a plug in the back of each release cyl. It's a small STOR BOSS fitting. 1/2 or 7/16 NF thread. You can check pressures there if you like.
Later Bob

[quote="bob"]Well Jim, you have enough oil pressure to release the clutches. If the LH side is not releasing you should hear the engine load up before it eventually turns. If the engine doesn't load up then you might just need to pull the clutch, wash the drum and reline the brake. There is a hole in the steering clutch case outer walls to access a plug in the back of each release cyl. It's a small STOR BOSS fitting. 1/2 or 7/16 NF thread. You can check pressures there if you like.
Later Bob[/quote]
Nope, the engine does not load up. I feel the clutches on left are releasing, just the brake seems wet and won't do any grabbing when warm. I have been pushing hard on a couple fenceline and road jobs. I also guess the left clutches are a bit wet also, tried pushing a BIG stump when centered up, the left track stopped digging and the right will dig non stop.
Man! That will be cool if all I have to do is a mineral spirits soak and oven dry on the fibre discs.( mineral spirits my choice for de greasing fibrous materials)
I still have not located a reputable reliner for the brakes. ( Southern Ohio) Any suggestions?
Oh, anything special about replacing the oil seals on both differential and bevel / finals housing?
Thanks for all your help.
Jim

Jim, you can reline the bands yourself if you buy the rivit punch, cut the old ones out with a drill. Use bigger drill and cut off the turned over end then punch them out. Put a punch the size of the head in a vise. Put lining in place, set rivit on punch and use rivit punch to start turning the rivit end. Do not completely hammer it down. Then put in the rest of the rivits and do the same. When you get them all caught, start in the center of the section and rivit them all tight. To reseal the bevel gear shaft you need to have a puller to remove and press back on the flanges, also need the press to take the clutch apart and put back together for cleaning. Might want to hire someone with tools and do both sides at this time.
Later Bob

Jim, you can reline the bands yourself if you buy the rivit punch, cut the old ones out with a drill. Use bigger drill and cut off the turned over end then punch them out. Put a punch the size of the head in a vise. Put lining in place, set rivit on punch and use rivit punch to start turning the rivit end. Do not completely hammer it down. Then put in the rest of the rivits and do the same. When you get them all caught, start in the center of the section and rivit them all tight. To reseal the bevel gear shaft you need to have a puller to remove and press back on the flanges, also need the press to take the clutch apart and put back together for cleaning. Might want to hire someone with tools and do both sides at this time.
Later Bob