ACMOC
Login | Register
ACMOC
D333 CAT Engine Fuel transfer pump Ser # 58B 4599

D333 CAT Engine Fuel transfer pump Ser # 58B 4599

Showing 1 to 8 of 8 results
rjh-md
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to rjh-md
Posts: 394
Thank you received: 0
I know I have seen it on here before ,but wondering were I can find the technical information Installing the 5M6038 seals in the fuel transfer pump ,and torque on the shaft nut
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, May 17, 2018 8:04 AM
ccjersey
Offline
Send a private message to ccjersey
Posts: 4,422
Thank you received: 0
I don't think the seals are the same as they used to be. They seem to be brittle and tamping them makes them friable. I have not presoaked them in half diesel and half motor oil though.

The last ones I put in i found a piece of plastic tubing that fit tight over the end of the shaft and simply took the dry seals out of the package, oiled them up and slid them on. You could do the same thing with plastic tape wrapped on until it comes out even with the shoulder on the shaft.

Maybe I am doing it all wrong but the couple sets I have ever done seem to work just fine. My book refers to the specifications page for the proper torque, but there is no torque listed there for that nut.........at least that I can find. I am referring to a 99E grader serviceman's reference book.

The grooved sides of the pump gears point toward the nut and drive gear side of the housing.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, May 17, 2018 10:02 AM
rjh-md
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to rjh-md
Posts: 394
Thank you received: 0
Reply to ccjersey:
I don't think the seals are the same as they used to be. They seem to be brittle and tamping them makes them friable. I have not presoaked them in half diesel and half motor oil though.

The last ones I put in i found a piece of plastic tubing that fit tight over the end of the shaft and simply took the dry seals out of the package, oiled them up and slid them on. You could do the same thing with plastic tape wrapped on until it comes out even with the shoulder on the shaft.

Maybe I am doing it all wrong but the couple sets I have ever done seem to work just fine. My book refers to the specifications page for the proper torque, but there is no torque listed there for that nut.........at least that I can find. I am referring to a 99E grader serviceman's reference book.

The grooved sides of the pump gears point toward the nut and drive gear side of the housing.
[quote="ccjersey"]I don't think the seals are the same as they used to be. They seem to be brittle and tamping them makes them friable. I have not presoaked them in half diesel and half motor oil though.

The last ones I put in i found a piece of plastic tubing that fit tight over the end of the shaft and simply took the dry seals out of the package, oiled them up and slid them on. You could do the same thing with plastic tape wrapped on until it comes out even with the shoulder on the shaft.

Maybe I am doing it all wrong but the couple sets I have ever done seem to work just fine. My book refers to the specifications page for the proper torque, but there is no torque listed there for that nut.........at least that I can find. I am referring to a 99E grader serviceman's reference book.

The grooved sides of the pump gears point toward the nut and drive gear side of the housing.[/quote]

Thank you ccjersey for your input on these seals I will follow your installation ideas with the plastic tubing,and tape the shaft end ,I was thinking of using STP oil treatment on the shaft ,and bearings ,and insides of the seals as a very slick lubercant for assembly
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, May 17, 2018 6:24 PM
rjh-md
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to rjh-md
Posts: 394
Thank you received: 0
Reply to rjh-md:
[quote="ccjersey"]I don't think the seals are the same as they used to be. They seem to be brittle and tamping them makes them friable. I have not presoaked them in half diesel and half motor oil though.

The last ones I put in i found a piece of plastic tubing that fit tight over the end of the shaft and simply took the dry seals out of the package, oiled them up and slid them on. You could do the same thing with plastic tape wrapped on until it comes out even with the shoulder on the shaft.

Maybe I am doing it all wrong but the couple sets I have ever done seem to work just fine. My book refers to the specifications page for the proper torque, but there is no torque listed there for that nut.........at least that I can find. I am referring to a 99E grader serviceman's reference book.

The grooved sides of the pump gears point toward the nut and drive gear side of the housing.[/quote]

Thank you ccjersey for your input on these seals I will follow your installation ideas with the plastic tubing,and tape the shaft end ,I was thinking of using STP oil treatment on the shaft ,and bearings ,and insides of the seals as a very slick lubercant for assembly


ccjersy , I have a D-6 74 A and 76 A service manual Specs say that the nut torque for the shaft is 10 lbs for this transfer pump .You may want to add this to your 99e grader book
Thanks again ,
Russ
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Fri, May 18, 2018 1:07 AM
ccjersey
Offline
Send a private message to ccjersey
Posts: 4,422
Thank you received: 0
Yes, I will do that.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Fri, May 18, 2018 2:39 AM
rjh-md
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to rjh-md
Posts: 394
Thank you received: 0
Reply to ccjersey:
Yes, I will do that.
I just learned a valuable lesson on D333 Engine transfer fuel pumps .With low or no transfer pump fuel supply it may not be the pump ,but a blockage in the upper part of the fuel filter housing there is a 7b7840 retainer, 7b6365 spring, and7b6366 ball in the fuel gallery in side the fuel filter housing that could block fuel from the pump to the filter . In this case the spring was missing ,and fuel sludge pushed the ball up against the retainer ,and blocked any fuel getting to the filter I was noticing low fuel pressure at the gauge ,and then no fuel pressure . I would advise checking this ball check first before removing the transfer pump .The pump seals were leaking ,and I resealed the pump . Gears and housing were good in the pump only showing about .001 wear on the shaft in over 40,000 hours
RJH
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sat, May 19, 2018 7:13 PM
ccjersey
Offline
Send a private message to ccjersey
Posts: 4,422
Thank you received: 0
That ball check is found on the fuel filter housing of several other "300" series engines from the 1960's including the D320 and D330 as well as the D333.

I tried unsuccessfully to remove the retainer of the one on my 922b loader. I was chasing a crack in the base and started out with an aluminum "brazing" rod and a torch and even used a MIG without ever getting it totally sealed. Finally cleaned and applied RED KOTE fuel tank sealer to the fuel passage up from the base to just below the ball check. That seems to have finally sealed it! I wanted to check and polish the seat and ball so it would stop fuel leaking back to the tank when the loader sits. I think most of the problem was the crack in the housing.

All while I was chasing the crack and repeatedly failing to fix it, I kept digging looking for another complete housing. Yesterday I looked for something else and found it! Didn't find what I was looking for though.
Attachment
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sat, May 19, 2018 10:33 PM
rjh-md
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to rjh-md
Posts: 394
Thank you received: 0
Reply to ccjersey:
That ball check is found on the fuel filter housing of several other "300" series engines from the 1960's including the D320 and D330 as well as the D333.

I tried unsuccessfully to remove the retainer of the one on my 922b loader. I was chasing a crack in the base and started out with an aluminum "brazing" rod and a torch and even used a MIG without ever getting it totally sealed. Finally cleaned and applied RED KOTE fuel tank sealer to the fuel passage up from the base to just below the ball check. That seems to have finally sealed it! I wanted to check and polish the seat and ball so it would stop fuel leaking back to the tank when the loader sits. I think most of the problem was the crack in the housing.

All while I was chasing the crack and repeatedly failing to fix it, I kept digging looking for another complete housing. Yesterday I looked for something else and found it! Didn't find what I was looking for though.
Attachment
Its amazing that Red Kote sealed that crack !
After I had resealed my Transfer pump installed it ,and installed a new suction line from from the tank to the transfer pump .When I stared up the engine pressure from the pump blew the gasket out between the pump and the filter housing .That is when I realized that I had a blocked passage in the filter housing .Lucky it blew the gasket ,and did not crack the housing . I am wondering if your cracked housing was because of blockage at that ball check valve at some time ? Cat has also changed that gasket between the transfer pump and the filter housing From 8H9601 to 5S6692 the material is a harder fiber type material rather than a paper gasket . Yes I knew that D330 ,and D333 used the same filter housing .,but in all the years I have been around these 4 and 6 cylinder dependable engines I have never seen this problem .this is the main reason I have written about it here.
RJH
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sun, May 20, 2018 7:46 AM
ccjersey
Offline
Send a private message to ccjersey
Posts: 4,422
Thank you received: 0
No over pressure problem, more of a gorilla handling the engine as it was removed from its previous home problem! The second one I recently found had the web up the side that the priming pump mounts on broken off. I would have much rather been fixing that instead of the whole base cracked and bent.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sun, May 20, 2018 9:33 AM
Showing 1 to 8 of 8 results
YouTube Video Placeholder

Follow Us on Social Media

Our channel highlights machines from the earliest Holt and Best track-type tractors, equipment from the start of Caterpillar in 1925, up to units built in the mid-1960s.

Upcoming Events

KORUMBURRA WORKING HORSE & TRACTOR & 100 YEARS OF CAT RALLY

Chapter Nineteen

| 5875 STH GIPPSLAND HWY, NYORA

Booleroo 2025

Chapter Thirty

| Booleroo Centre, 54 Arthur St, Booleroo Centre SA 5482, Australia

CAFES 2025 TULARE, CALIFORNIA

Chapter Fifteen

| Tulare, California

Wheatlands Warracknabeal Easter Rally

Chapter Nineteen

| 34 Henty Hwy, Warracknabeal
View Calendar
ACMOC

Antique Caterpillar
Machinery Owners Club

1115 Madison St NE # 1117
Salem, OR 97301

[email protected]

Terms & Privacy
Website developed by AdCo

Testimonials

"I also joined a year ago. had been on here a couple of times as a non-member and found the info very helpful so I got a one year subscription (not very expensive at all) to try it out. I really like all the resources on here so I just got a three year. I think its a very small price for what you can get out of this site."
-Jason N

Join Today!