I don't think the seals are the same as they used to be. They seem to be brittle and tamping them makes them friable. I have not presoaked them in half diesel and half motor oil though.
The last ones I put in i found a piece of plastic tubing that fit tight over the end of the shaft and simply took the dry seals out of the package, oiled them up and slid them on. You could do the same thing with plastic tape wrapped on until it comes out even with the shoulder on the shaft.
Maybe I am doing it all wrong but the couple sets I have ever done seem to work just fine. My book refers to the specifications page for the proper torque, but there is no torque listed there for that nut.........at least that I can find. I am referring to a 99E grader serviceman's reference book.
The grooved sides of the pump gears point toward the nut and drive gear side of the housing.
[quote="ccjersey"]I don't think the seals are the same as they used to be. They seem to be brittle and tamping them makes them friable. I have not presoaked them in half diesel and half motor oil though.
The last ones I put in i found a piece of plastic tubing that fit tight over the end of the shaft and simply took the dry seals out of the package, oiled them up and slid them on. You could do the same thing with plastic tape wrapped on until it comes out even with the shoulder on the shaft.
Maybe I am doing it all wrong but the couple sets I have ever done seem to work just fine. My book refers to the specifications page for the proper torque, but there is no torque listed there for that nut.........at least that I can find. I am referring to a 99E grader serviceman's reference book.
The grooved sides of the pump gears point toward the nut and drive gear side of the housing.[/quote]
Thank you ccjersey for your input on these seals I will follow your installation ideas with the plastic tubing,and tape the shaft end ,I was thinking of using STP oil treatment on the shaft ,and bearings ,and insides of the seals as a very slick lubercant for assembly
Yes, I will do that.
That ball check is found on the fuel filter housing of several other "300" series engines from the 1960's including the D320 and D330 as well as the D333.
I tried unsuccessfully to remove the retainer of the one on my 922b loader. I was chasing a crack in the base and started out with an aluminum "brazing" rod and a torch and even used a MIG without ever getting it totally sealed. Finally cleaned and applied RED KOTE fuel tank sealer to the fuel passage up from the base to just below the ball check. That seems to have finally sealed it! I wanted to check and polish the seat and ball so it would stop fuel leaking back to the tank when the loader sits. I think most of the problem was the crack in the housing.
All while I was chasing the crack and repeatedly failing to fix it, I kept digging looking for another complete housing. Yesterday I looked for something else and found it! Didn't find what I was looking for though.![]()