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D330 ridge removal

D330 ridge removal

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PhilC
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Hello All
My D330 has some small ridges at the top of the cylinder to remove. I have a lisle ridge remover but either the cylinder walls are too hard or the blade is dull but it will not remove the ridge. Looking through the workshop manual it shows a heavy duty ridge reamer but there is no part number listed.
Does anyone know of a good ridge remover/reamer that will work? Some sites mention 5P8606 cutter but I cannot find a picture of it and I am reluctant to purchase one without seeing it first. There is one on ebay but no picture.

Regards

Phil
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Tue, Mar 12, 2019 1:40 AM
Old Magnet
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Going to take a heavy duty ridge reamer with tungsten carbide blade to get the job done.
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Tue, Mar 12, 2019 5:11 AM
edb
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Going to take a heavy duty ridge reamer with tungsten carbide blade to get the job done.
Hi Phil,
bit rushed at present after 3 day Rally and yet to unload.
Posted on this recently so hope the link works for you to find the rough and ready method suggested in older Yellow Servicemen's Reference Books--this one from a D6 Tractor Book, Form No 7861-A, Dated 1-44.
Maybe set up the liner in a lathe and using a tool post mounted die grinder the ridge could be raised.


http://www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.php?31541-R2-4J-sleeves(liners0/page3&highlight=liner

Hope it helps.
Cheers Eddie B.
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Tue, Mar 12, 2019 9:35 AM
PhilC
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Reply to edb:
Hi Phil,
bit rushed at present after 3 day Rally and yet to unload.
Posted on this recently so hope the link works for you to find the rough and ready method suggested in older Yellow Servicemen's Reference Books--this one from a D6 Tractor Book, Form No 7861-A, Dated 1-44.
Maybe set up the liner in a lathe and using a tool post mounted die grinder the ridge could be raised.


http://www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.php?31541-R2-4J-sleeves(liners0/page3&highlight=liner

Hope it helps.
Cheers Eddie B.
OM
I have a Lisle Ridge remover that has a tungsten carbide cutter but it won't remove the ridge. It simply rides up over it.

Eddie
Thanks for that info. If it's good enough for Cat then it's good enough for me😊 I will give it a try tomorrow. As the ridge is very small I might use a rubber sanding band rather than a grinding wheel but I like the method of stopping the wheel going too deep.

Regards

Phil
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Mon, Mar 18, 2019 3:48 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to PhilC:
OM
I have a Lisle Ridge remover that has a tungsten carbide cutter but it won't remove the ridge. It simply rides up over it.

Eddie
Thanks for that info. If it's good enough for Cat then it's good enough for me😊 I will give it a try tomorrow. As the ridge is very small I might use a rubber sanding band rather than a grinding wheel but I like the method of stopping the wheel going too deep.

Regards

Phil
I suspect the Lisle reamer is not ridged enough and the cutter possibly not sharp enough. The Cat ridge remover uses a carbide cutter but it is mounted in a really heavy duty holder.
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Mon, Mar 18, 2019 11:15 PM
PhilC
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Reply to Old Magnet:
I suspect the Lisle reamer is not ridged enough and the cutter possibly not sharp enough. The Cat ridge remover uses a carbide cutter but it is mounted in a really heavy duty holder.
Hello OM
I think you are right. The ridge remover shown in the manual is an entirely different style to the lisle version. The lisle version locks up inside the bore and the cutter is spring mounted. Do you know the part number for the Cat ridge remover?

Regards

Phil
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Tue, Mar 19, 2019 2:15 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to PhilC:
Hello OM
I think you are right. The ridge remover shown in the manual is an entirely different style to the lisle version. The lisle version locks up inside the bore and the cutter is spring mounted. Do you know the part number for the Cat ridge remover?

Regards

Phil
The liner ridge tool group for 4-1/4 and 4-1/2 " bore is 3F960.
For some reason even though my tool listing is dated 1970 it skips over the D330C 4-3/4" bore.
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Tue, Mar 19, 2019 12:01 PM
edb
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Reply to Old Magnet:
The liner ridge tool group for 4-1/4 and 4-1/2 " bore is 3F960.
For some reason even though my tool listing is dated 1970 it skips over the D330C 4-3/4" bore.
Hi Team,
the ridge raiser tooling was used before the D300 series engines were designed and had fallen out of use by then.
For small ridging we used to use a Flex Hone--bottle brush bauble type, or sent the liners out to be hard honed with a fixed stone type hone in a hydraulic honing machine--only good for small wear and done to about a 80% cleanup.

Bottle brush type rounds off the edge of the ridge so hopefully the new rings do not catch on the rounded ridge and fracture the top ring and/or ring land in time.

Cat liners became so hard that the cutting tools of the day would not last or sometimes not even penetrate the surface to cut away the lip--they also only worked at one level of cut--tool width-- in the liner and so were termed Ridge Raisers as they did not cut the ridge right up and out of the bore as do most automotive tools with a fine threaded tool carrier and frame.

The grinding method given previously is from the D6 Army Technical Manual TM5-3100 as supplied from Caterpillar in the Servicemen's Reference Book for the D6 Tractor, Form No 7861-A, dated 1-44, contained therein.

I have used this method on many of my old engine resto's over the years with success--just need a steady hand.
One type that comes to mind is the blind cylinders from radial aircraft style WW2 Tank engines I had--the ring wear ridge is at the closed or head end of the unit so is a long way down from the opening.

Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Wed, Mar 20, 2019 4:29 AM
PhilC
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Reply to edb:
Hi Team,
the ridge raiser tooling was used before the D300 series engines were designed and had fallen out of use by then.
For small ridging we used to use a Flex Hone--bottle brush bauble type, or sent the liners out to be hard honed with a fixed stone type hone in a hydraulic honing machine--only good for small wear and done to about a 80% cleanup.

Bottle brush type rounds off the edge of the ridge so hopefully the new rings do not catch on the rounded ridge and fracture the top ring and/or ring land in time.

Cat liners became so hard that the cutting tools of the day would not last or sometimes not even penetrate the surface to cut away the lip--they also only worked at one level of cut--tool width-- in the liner and so were termed Ridge Raisers as they did not cut the ridge right up and out of the bore as do most automotive tools with a fine threaded tool carrier and frame.

The grinding method given previously is from the D6 Army Technical Manual TM5-3100 as supplied from Caterpillar in the Servicemen's Reference Book for the D6 Tractor, Form No 7861-A, dated 1-44, contained therein.

I have used this method on many of my old engine resto's over the years with success--just need a steady hand.
One type that comes to mind is the blind cylinders from radial aircraft style WW2 Tank engines I had--the ring wear ridge is at the closed or head end of the unit so is a long way down from the opening.

Cheers,
Eddie B.
Attachment
Attachment
Hello All
I have given up on the old sleeves. Once I removed the ridge on the first one and checked a ring in the bore there was too much clearance. There is also some pitting in one cylinder from sitting seized for so long. Aftermarket sleeves are only $40 each and they are good enough for the work this loader will be doing.

Regards

Phil
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Sun, Mar 31, 2019 1:45 PM
Mike Meyer
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Reply to PhilC:
Hello All
I have given up on the old sleeves. Once I removed the ridge on the first one and checked a ring in the bore there was too much clearance. There is also some pitting in one cylinder from sitting seized for so long. Aftermarket sleeves are only $40 each and they are good enough for the work this loader will be doing.

Regards

Phil
Phil, I'd be curious to know what it costs to fit the new sleeves here in Oz, I have a old Cat 30 here that needs re-sleeving.
Thanks
Mike
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Mon, Apr 1, 2019 3:20 AM
ccjersey
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D330 is a wet sleeve engine.

I will probably be making the same decision soon, need to pop the head off a D318 and see what is going on inside. Head needs to be swapped anyway but the engine would run on either, but not diesel .
I went through this "good spare" engine trying to get it going a while back without any success. I think it's just worn out and probably the rings are stuck from sitting in storage about 20 years.

From a couple previous rebuilds, if you want either new pistons or new sleeves, by the time you buy that and new rings, seals etc, it's usually about the same money to just get the complete kit of pistons with wrist pins, rings, sleeves and seals......at least from the aftermarket suppliers.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Mon, Apr 1, 2019 4:18 AM
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