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D318 Damper Bolt

D318 Damper Bolt

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lnhru
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I have just finished overhauling my D6 8U motor and have several questions. Does anyone know the torque value for the large 2 3/4 inch damper bolt? I haven't been able to find it in my Caterpillar manuals. Also my rebuilt crankshaft arrived from the rebuilder with the front damper locker bolt in a plastic bag wired to the snout. Now, I know why. The left hand threaded bolt does not start to thread into the internal thread in the crank's snout. The internal threads do not appear to be damaged, but the bolt will not start. Neither, will my old bolt start. No one I have contacted has a thread tap for this LH internal thread. Any suggestions? The motor is going back in the Cat this weekend if the weather warms up a bit. (Alberta -30 degree Celsius this morning) Cat and motor are indoors in the shop, but no room for a loader to lift the motor so machine has to be moved outside. Thank you in advance for any assistance.

Lloyd
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Fri, Dec 20, 2013 1:12 AM
Old Magnet
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www.mcmaster-carr.com should have the LH tap you need. What size and thread is it?

Don't have a spec for the torque, don't believe that it is critical.

If it's fine thread be really careful in chasing the threads as it's very easy to cross thread. Probably why the shop left you to do it.
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Fri, Dec 20, 2013 1:51 AM
ccjersey
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I expect someone ran a puller screw down into that thread as they were pulling the pulley off of the crankshaft nose. Should have screwed the bolt into the hole until it bottomed out on a spacer or direct on the end of the crankshaft so there was no damage to the threads. Last one I pulled was a hard pull!

You might do best to take a sharp drill bit and drill a 1/16" or so of the threads out before attempting to start a tap. You might also make some headway by tapering the end of one of your bolts on a grinder or even better threading it down in a lathe and see if you can get it to catch once you have drilled the first couple threads out.

I didn't remember that the bolt was left hand thread, but it's been a while since I pulled one. Any chance there was a change during the series? Maybe a regular thread bolt with a sheetmetal lock? I'll have to look in the SRB, but it's not handy at the moment.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Fri, Dec 20, 2013 2:06 AM
edb
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Reply to ccjersey:
I expect someone ran a puller screw down into that thread as they were pulling the pulley off of the crankshaft nose. Should have screwed the bolt into the hole until it bottomed out on a spacer or direct on the end of the crankshaft so there was no damage to the threads. Last one I pulled was a hard pull!

You might do best to take a sharp drill bit and drill a 1/16" or so of the threads out before attempting to start a tap. You might also make some headway by tapering the end of one of your bolts on a grinder or even better threading it down in a lathe and see if you can get it to catch once you have drilled the first couple threads out.

I didn't remember that the bolt was left hand thread, but it's been a while since I pulled one. Any chance there was a change during the series? Maybe a regular thread bolt with a sheetmetal lock? I'll have to look in the SRB, but it's not handy at the moment.
Hi Team,
ccj has it right, too many times I caught people using a puller without the adaptor that has a protruding centering spike and a corresponding centre drilling on the opposite side to keep the puller bolt from doing this sort of damage.
I would do as ccj says as if you try and start a tap in the crushed down threads it will cut a new thread at the starting point of the damaged threads--I guess I am trying to say the damaged and undamaged threads are out of sync with each other and you will damage the good thread beyond use.
I would sharpen a suitable sized drill bit with very little cutting angle so it will not dig in too far and take out more threads than needed-- a better option would be a multi start core drill as they have less tendency to dig in.
At The Dealer we had torque wrenches that qould work in both directions for such left hand threads.
Some cheap ones I have seen at auto accessory shops are this type.
The torque value would be the same as for a comparable sized right hand threaded fastener.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Fri, Dec 20, 2013 5:04 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to edb:
Hi Team,
ccj has it right, too many times I caught people using a puller without the adaptor that has a protruding centering spike and a corresponding centre drilling on the opposite side to keep the puller bolt from doing this sort of damage.
I would do as ccj says as if you try and start a tap in the crushed down threads it will cut a new thread at the starting point of the damaged threads--I guess I am trying to say the damaged and undamaged threads are out of sync with each other and you will damage the good thread beyond use.
I would sharpen a suitable sized drill bit with very little cutting angle so it will not dig in too far and take out more threads than needed-- a better option would be a multi start core drill as they have less tendency to dig in.
At The Dealer we had torque wrenches that qould work in both directions for such left hand threads.
Some cheap ones I have seen at auto accessory shops are this type.
The torque value would be the same as for a comparable sized right hand threaded fastener.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
Even if things go to hell you can get LH helicoils as well as the taps from McMaster-Carr.
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Fri, Dec 20, 2013 7:15 AM
old-iron-habit
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Even if things go to hell you can get LH helicoils as well as the taps from McMaster-Carr.
On larger bolt holes like that I have gently removed the damaged end threads using a Dremel tool or a tiny end grinder. Good luck with it.
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Fri, Dec 20, 2013 9:04 AM
edb
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Reply to old-iron-habit:
On larger bolt holes like that I have gently removed the damaged end threads using a Dremel tool or a tiny end grinder. Good luck with it.
Hi Team,
if using a grinder to grind out the damaged threads be especially careful to flush all hint of any shavings/grindings out of the thread or else you will discover something better than Loc-tite when the crud seizes the threads together--seen it done with expensive results.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Sat, Dec 21, 2013 7:55 AM
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